CHAPTER II.

EGYPT THE DESERT-SOUTH OF PALESTINE.

"Set thee up way-marks, make thee high heaps: set thine heart toward the highway, even the way which thou wentest: turn again, O virgin of Israel, turn again to these thy cities."-JEREM. XXXI. 21.

WHEN about to land, we were told that the plague had that very day made its appearance in Alexandria. This was by no means welcome news, for we saw that in all probability we should now be subjected to the delay of a quarantine before entering Palestine. Meanwhile, however, having no alternative, we disembarked. The quay exhibited a strange scene of confusion and noise. A crowd of rough half-naked men and Arab boys, some with asses, some with camels, lined the beach, all screaming and quarrelling, determined to press their services on every passenger, and to take no denial. With some difficulty we got our luggage satisfactorily disposed of, and then each of the company, mounted on an ass, and, guided by an Arab boy, scampered through the gate of the city, and through the narrow bazaar, till we came to a pleasant square in the other extremity of the town. Here we took up our abode in an inn kept by a Frenchman.

With calm delight we were now able to look round upon the land of Egypt, while many scenes of its eventful history rose up before us. It was here that Jacob

ALEXANDRIA-REFLECTIONS.

63

and Joseph sojourned, with their families, for 400 years. This was the land of Moses and his wondrous deeds. And, more interesting still, this was the land that gave refuge to "the holy child Jesus," when compelled to flee from the land of Judah. It was the cradle of Israel, and the cradle of Israel's Saviour as it is written, "out

of Egypt have I called my son."1

This city Alexandria was the birthplace of Apollos," that pattern of burning zeal, and scriptural eloquence -the city, too, of Athanasius-and the scene of the labours of the seventy translators of the Old Testament. Alexander the Great, Cleopatra, Cæsar, and many other names, are associated with the name of the once illustrious Alexandria. With still deeper interest we now pondered over the future history of Egypt, as disclosed in the record of prophecy, and prayed that the time may be hastened, when "Ethiopia shall stretch out her hands to God"3-When "the Lord shall be known to Egypt, and the Egyptians shall know the Lord"-" And the Lord shall smite Egypt, he shall smite and heal it;""Saying, Blessed be Egypt my people."4

(May 14.) Every eastern city is infested with dogs that prowl about the streets for food; and during all the night their ceaseless howling reminded us of David's description of his enemies: "They return at evening; they make a noise like a dog, and go round about the city." Before breakfast, some of us rambled out to Pompey's Pillar. The only thing remarkable about it is, that the shaft is one stone, a solid mass of red gra nite, 90 feet long, and 9 feet in diameter. The capital is Corinthian, indifferently carved. The traces of

1 Matt. I. 15.

4 Isa. XIX. 21, 22, 25.

2 Acts XVIII. 24.

5 Psú. LIX. 6.

• Psa. LXVIII. 31.

64

ALEXANDRIA-DRESS OF THE WOMEN.

many a traveller's visit are to be found scratched upon its pedestal. The Mareotic Lake lay east of it, but is now dried up, affording no moisture to water the Mareotic vines that once regaled Cleopatra and her luxurious court. The ground around it swarmed with small lizards, and the surface is broken with innumerable holes made by the jerboa. It was curious for us to observe for the first time women wearing the veil that hides the whole face except

the eyes. Some carried the earthen jar upon their head in a very graceful manner. Some also were carrying their children on their shoulders, as referred to by the prophet, when he says of returning Israel," thy daughters shall be carried on their shoulders."1 Some carried them in a still more singular manner, upon their side, a custom also referred to by the prophet," Ye shall be borne upon her sides."2

Passing through the bazaar, one of the Pasha's Beys rode past us, fully armed, mounted on an Arab steed. An Egyptian clothed in white cotton ran before him at full speed, clearing the way with voice and arms. This vividly recalled to us, Elijah girding up his loins and running before Ahab's chariot to the gate of Jezreel. 3

In the forenoon we arranged our money-matters, and visited several individuals to whom we had letters 3 1 Kings XVIII. 46.

1 Isa. XLIX. 22.

2 Isa. LXVI. 12.

ALEXANDRIA-JEWISH SYNAGOGUE-JEWS.

65

-especially Mr Larkins, the English Consul, and Mr Todd, from whom we received great kindness.

,(shemen limar) "שמן למאור " for

In the evening, we visited the Frank Synagogue. We were guided up a dark stair in an obscure street, and through a long narrow ill-lighted passage into a small room, not more than thirty feet long and ten broad. At the door, stood the usual box for alms, and another "olive-oil for the lamps." There were only ten persons present; three of whom were natives of Egypt, dressed in the common oriental costume; the rest from Leghorn, Trieste, and other mercantile towns of Europe. They shewed little feeling of devotion; except at one point of the short service, where there was a pause in the reading of the prayers, and all seemed to pray in silence for four or five minutes, turning their faces towards the ark. Before concluding, a box was carried round for contributions. There was not one interesting feature either in the worship or in the place, with the exception of a large frame suspended on the wall, bearing these words,

הרחמן יחזיר עבודת בית מקדש למוקומה במהרה *

,בימינו

12," "May the merciful one bring back the service of the house of the sanctuary to its place, speedily, in our days." This was like one of the groans of Israel for deliverance in "the house of bondage."

As soon as service was over, the Jews spoke freely to us-opened the ark, and shewed us their copies of the law. One of the best of these we spread out for examination on the reading-desk; and out of their own scriptures discoursed to them of sin and atonement for sin. We told them that we had come from Scotland out of love to their souls. We spoke of Messiah, how He came the first time to die for sin, and is coming soon the second time to reign in glory. They said that there

F

66

ALEXANDRIA-PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY.

are about 100 families of European Jews in Alexandria, who have only one synagogue; and that there are about 300 families of native Jews who have two, and these they called the Arab synagogues. One Jew who had resided much at Cairo, told us that in that city there were 300 families of Jews, of whom one-third were Caraites. We afterwards learned from English residents that this information was not very accurate, and that there are more Jews in Cairo than in Alexandria. In the latter, there may be about 1000, and in Cairo about 2000. The Jews of Alexandria are mostly of the third class in trade-the richest of them are all sarafs, or money-changers.

We were occupied all next morning (May 15) in preparing for our journey through the desert. The plague having appeared in Alexandria, we could not enter Palestine by Jaffa or Beyrout, without submitting to a long and unwholesome quarantine. We therefore resolved to proceed by the way of El Arish; and to do this without delay, as in the course of a few days, orders were likely to be sent to establish a quarantine at El Arish. The Consul's trusty janissary, Mustapha by name, born at Thebes, a useful clever person, busily engaged himself in providing us with needful articles. We had already furnished ourselves with light dresses at Marseilles, and straw hats at Leghorn-and now we purchased travelling implements. We went to the bazaar, and bought carpets to lie upon at night, and a thick soft coverlet to wrap ourselves in. We next procured with some difficulty two tents, neither of them large, one round, the other oblong. Cairo is the pro

per place for obtaining such articles.

An Indian gen

tleman's canteen and cooking utensils, with a stock of remainder provisions, fell into our hands at a cheap rate.