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I.

they were put to death in his presence. Soon CHẬP. afterwards he died; leaving, as he had predicted,

Mamaluke slaves and his Georgian and Circassian women, he put them all to death, eleven females, by throwing them alive into a well, and thus leaving them to expire: he also mutilated a vast number of them, by cutting off their noses, who had had the smallest communication with the Mamalukes. It is supposed that Djezzar has thirteen women in his Charem; their dresses being made in the town, and a billet being sent to the workmen for a dress for such a particular number.

"At four P. M. we re-embark.

"April the 14th. After breakfast, we visited Djezzur. We brought with us a packet, which we requested him to forward by a courier to Aleppo. Am I (said he, in a violent rage) the Sais Bashi (Chief ' of the Couriers)? Your conduct is very extraordinary. The first day 'you visit me as a friend ;—you make me no present. You suspected ⚫ my friendship from the first. Instead of coming directly to Acre, 'why did you anchor at Caiffa?' [We were prevented by the weather, and our pilot's entire ignorance of the harbour.] 'On the 'second visit you desire to see the plans of my fortifications; and ' while the two others go without, and examine my fortifications, you ‘(addressing himself to Mr. Hamilton) remain with me, open the ' object of your mission, and wish me to make peace with the Druzes; ' a subject I cannot bear to advert to.' Mr. Hamilton attempted an explanation; and told him that the simple subject of his inquiry was whether Sir Sidney Smith had interfered in the affair of the Druzes, or not; that Lord Elgin was extremely sorry to have heard a report of that nature;-that the conduct of those persons who had communicated with the enemies of Djezzar should be strictly inquired into and he concluded by observing, that he hoped Djezzar would receive an English Consul at Acre. This, indeed, was the subject of the conversation of yesterday. Djezzar had mistaken the whole : like a true tyrant, always filled with jealousy and suspicion, he imagined that we were emissaries from the English, and wished to reestablish the affairs of the Druzes. He would hearken to no explanation; but entertained suspicions which we saw it would be wholly impossible to erase. The Emir Bechir (Prince) of the Druses, who governs the Mountains (of the Lebanon) inhabited by this people and

-I.

CHAP. the undisturbed possession of a very extensive territory to his successor, Ismael Pasha.

the Maronites, is continually at war with Djezzar, and he refused the
contributions annually levied in the Mountains. Djezzar retains two
nephews of the Emir in his Seraglio, as hostages, in case any act of
hostility should be shown by the Prince of the Mountains. When
the French were before Acre, they attempted to bring over the
Druzes and Maronites to their alliance. Sir Sidney Smith, gaining
intelligence of this, very prudently despatched emissaries to coun-
teract the French intrigue in the Mountains; and made ample pro-
mises of his friendship and protection to the Druzes.
This people

had always been the declared enemies of Djezzar; and the short-
sighted policy of the tyrant made him most inveterate against Sir
Sidney and the English, on account of their correspondence in the
Mountains.

"I can (added Djezzar) let the English know, that I am as 'powerful in my enmities, as I am faithful and sincere in my friend

ships. Am I to be dictated to? I, who have held the sword over the 'head of the Beys, shall I lower it, and be humbled by the English? 'No! (exclaimed he,) I can withstand them all. I will have no com'munication with the English. I will have no Consul of that nation; 'not one of their ships shall come into my harbour; they shall not ' approach within gun-shot of my fortifications.' Mr. Hamilton still attempted to explain: and at last, Djessar went so far as to say, that it was not with Sir Sidney Smith that he was offended; that it was with a Mr. Wright, Lieutenant of the Tigre, and the Vice-Consul of Tripoli a Frenchman, whom he considered the cause of the breach between him (Djezzar) and Sir Sidney. 'Mr. Wright (continued he) ' and the other had been to visit the Chiefs of the Druzes; had made arrangements with them, and had even returned with some of the 'Princes to Acre; and Sir Sidney ought certainly to have prevented 'this communication: however (said he) I am not offended with him.' In short, in his extreme anger, he frequently contradicted himself. Leake and myself smiled upon some observations between ourselves. Djezzar became furious. 'I, who have been a Pasha of three tails 'these five years; I, (said he) who have defeated twelve thousand 'Druzes with twenty horsemen, am I to be insulted in this manner? - I am speaking seriously. Am I to be laughed at and derided ?—

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Ismael is described by English travellers, who have since visited Acre, as a very amiable man, and in every respect the very reverse of this Herod of his time.

After our last interview with Djezzar, we

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'I am an old man : you are children. Look at my beard.—I am choleric; 'I know not what may be the consequence! Had I not been in my ' own house, I should instantly have bursted forth and died with 'indignation! I am now in such a rage, and have talked so much, that I can neither see nor distinguish any of you! His mouth, at different times, was so parched with anger and exertion, that he took large draughts of water, and remarked, that he had never drank so much water in his life. After a violent conversation of two hours, in which the cruelty, the tyranny, the ingratitude of this monster were displayed in their blackest colours, we took our departure; telling him, that we would repeat our visit in the evening.

"In the course of this morning's interview, he told us, that he was a just man, and fond of order and regularity. If my soldiers touch 'me, or have the appearance of offering the smallest insult, I imme'diately order them to be beheaded. If a man insult a woman, his 'punishment is the same. If I desire a man to sit down in my pre 'sence, and I go out of the apartment, and he quit his seat before 'my return, the loss of his head is the consequence.'

"In the afternoon, we again landed, with an intention to visit the Pasha; but we were told by the Dragoman, that he had gone into his Charem, and would not be visible this evening: we therefore returned to the ship.

"April 15th. After breakfast we went ashore, with an intention to visit Djezzar: but we were told by his Dragoman, that he had issued orders, at the gates of the Seraglio, to refuse our admission. We then inquired if it were possible to hire horses, to pass by land to Tripoli: the Dragoman answered in the negative; for there would be no security for our persons. We then determined to get under weigh, and proceed to Tripoli by sea. At one P. M. we were unmoored, and got out of the bay, with a small breeze from the northward."

CHAP. made a final survey of the town of Acre,
I. particularly of its market, which is well supplied
Account of with most of the Eastern commodities. Cotton
Acre. is the principal export.
Its tobacco is very

Further

rate.

highly esteemed; and coarse muslins, remarkable for the durability of their dye, are sold at a low The inhabitants make use of wooden tubes for their tobacco-pipes, garnished with a swathing of silk or linen, for the purpose of absorbing water. This, being kept moist, cools the smoke, as it rises, by the constant evaporation. This method of smoking tobacco is less deleterious than the Arab custom of using the hooka, which generally consists of nothing more than a hollow gourd containing water, and two pieces of cane; but the whole of the smoke, instead of being drawn into the mouth, is thereby inhaled upon the lungs; a practice which sometimes causes asthma, where it has been long continued'. Mariti, in the account of his journey

(1) Shaw mentions this custom (See Travels, p. 234. Lond. 1757. Note 9). He says the Arabs call it Shrob el Douhhan, that is to say, "drinking of smoke." It is a universal practice, not only in the Levant, but over all the Mediterranean. Like other intoxicating habits, when once acquired, it is not readily abandoned. The effect produced resembles that of a dram; causing, at the moment, distention of the nerves and vessels of the head, particularly of the eyes. The Greek who travelled with us, after thus conveying all the smoke he could collect from a well-kindled pipe into his lungs, could retain it there

for

1.

from Acre to Mount Carmel, mentions the CHAP. exportation to Venice of the sand of the River Belus, for the glass-houses of that city. "It is," says he, "to this river, Belus, that we are indebted for those magnificent plates of glass which Venice manufactured, to embellish the apartments of Europe." The Arabs call this river Kardané. In Acre we observed several individuals engaged in manufacturing the kind of leather known in England under the vulgar appellation of Red Morocco; and as the whole process was publickly exhibited, it may be regretted that we did not pay more attention to the articles made use of in preparing the dye, which produced the most lively and brilliant scarlet we had ever beheld. The skins were constantly exposed, during the operation, to the hottest beams of the sun, in the most sultry season of the year.

Before we conclude our remarks upon Acre, it will be proper to state, that the pointed arches

for a few seconds, and sometimes drink a glass of water, before he rendered back the smoke, in curling volumes, through his lips and nostrils. The Mohammedans are so delighted by the effect of inhaling smoke, that, when they have emptied their lungs of it, they exclaim, "ALHANDILLAH," God be praised!

(2) Mariti's Travels through Cyprus, Syria, and Palæstine. vol. II. p. 124. Lond. 1791.

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