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The town CHAP.

say which was the most refined?
had undergone other alterations, and was much
improved as a place of residence since we left
it in the beginning of August. An Italian had
opened a coffee-house, which was the resort of
the officers both of the army and navy. A pro-
spect of tranquillity had brought back many
families, who had before deserted it: and Arabs
were seen in greater number in the streets, sell-
ing sugar-canes, fruit, and other vegetables;
and employed in making chairs, tables and bed-
steads, from the branches of the date trees1.
We had no time to spare for any further in-
quiry into the history of the place, or the anti-
quities it might conceal; yet, in spite of every

VI.

(1) Rosetta was again become an emporium for the surprising harvest of Upper as well as of Lower Egypt. Mr. Wills, acting as Commissary for our fleet, to whom we were indebted for many acts of civility, at this time received an order for corn, to the amount of seventeen thousand pounds sterling. This gentleman informed us, and said he was convinced of the truth of the statement, that Upper Egypt could annually supply five millions of Cairo ardepts of wheat; each ardept being equal to five bushels of our measure; besides a great supply of barley and rice, the precise quantity of which he was unable to ascertain.

(2) Colonel Squire arrived at Rosetta in the evening of the same day on which we left it. The following remarks occur in his Journal. "The town of Rosetta, or Raschid as it is called by the Arabs, was built in the year of Christ 875; and is now in a very ruinous state: the houses, which are built of burned brick, are high; and the streets,

as

VOL. V.

Y

VI.

CHAP. exertion to prosecute our expedition to Alexandria, we were detained three days in preparing and packing cases, containing the collection we had made, and in procuring another djerm to convey them to the fleet; the boat in which we came having been pressed for the service of the army, as soon as it arrived.

as in all Turkish towns, narrow. At this time it is but thinly inhabited, although trade (now the ports of Egypt are relieved from a blockade) seems about to revive: the shops are well stocked with provisions of all kinds. Wild fowl may be had in abundance. It may easily be conceived that the eye would revel in a prospect so refreshing as the Delta, (after contemplating the sandy deserts of Aboukir, and the neighbourhood of Alexandria,) forming so delightful a contrast by its verdure and cultivation. Of late years, the desert has encroached, even here, considerably on the town; and the west side of Rosetta is completely skirted by sand hills." Squire's MS. Journal.

[graphic][merged small][merged small][merged small]

Voyage to Aboukir-Visit to Lord Keith-Journey to Alexandria-Arrival at the British Camp -Communication with Lord Hutchinson-Entrance into the French Garrison-Wretched state of the Inhabitants-Visit from a party of Merchants--Discovery of the Tomb of Alexander-Circumstances of its removal by the French-Its situation upon the Author's arrival -Internal evidence of its authenticity-Other antiquities collected by the French-Cleopatra's Needles-Pompey's Pillar--Discovery of the Inscription-Sepulchral origin of the ColumnManner of its support-Proof that it was erected by the Romans-Restoration of the legend upon the pedestal-Events that occurred after the death of Pompey-Shrine constructed by Cæsar -Testimony of the Arabian Historians-Hadrian's monument to his horse-Traditionary name of the Pillar founded on historical evidence

VII.

Voyage to

Interview with Menou_Surrender of the Rosetta
Tablet-Intercourse between the two armies-
-French Institute-Catacombs of Necropolis
-Serapeum of Racotis-Of Hades and of
Ammon-Cause of such elaborate sepulchres-
Descent into the Cryptæ-Remarkable Symbol
-Imperfect accounts of the Alexandrian Anti-
quities-Conduct of the Capudan Pasha.

CHAP. EARLY on the morning of September the eighth, we got once more under weigh, in a large djerm, Aboukir, having all our Egyptian collection of antiquities on board; and saw the beautiful prospect of Rosetta disappear, as we sailed between the Isle of Sarshes1 and the DELTA. We had little wind, but it was favourable; and as we passed the fearful bar at the mouth of the NILE, there was not the smallest surf. A small isle at the entrance of the river was entirely covered with pelicans. About half way between the boccaze and the fleet, we observed a salute from all the Turkish ships at anchor; in honour, as it was said, of some Moslem festival. The mud of the immense torrent now pouring into the Mediterranean, at the highest period of the Nile's inundation, extended over the surface of this part of

(1) See the Map facing p. 290 of the Second Volume of these Travels, 4to. edit.

the sea; and the water tasted fresh at a considerable distance from the embouchure. As Captain Clarke's frigate no longer remained among the transports, we steered our vessel among the merchant ships lying nearer to the coast towards Aboukir, and came alongside the Felicité from Smyrna, laden with stores. Here we were hospitably received by our friend Mr. Schutz, of that city, who was on board, as supercargo; and by a worthy Ragusan, who was master of the merchantman.

VII.

Lord Keith.

The next morning, Wednesday, September thevisit to ninth, we waited upon Lord Keith, to thank him for the civilities he had shewn to us, and to take our leave. He told us that no vessels would be permitted to sail into the port of Alexandria, until the French had evacuated the city, and the magazines been properly secured by our army; as he knew that there were not less than fifty or sixty ships, manned by Greeks and Turks, waiting for the sole purpose of plunder. We could not therefore obtain permission for the Felicité to take us thither; and we returned, to undertake the journey by land. A contrary wind, with a heavy sea, had caused so much delay, and had given us so much labour in working up to the Admiral's ship, that we did

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