three quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of them, now and then, came off to the ships, and bartered a few trifling things with our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to vessels, in some degree, like ours. They behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage tribes.

At one o'clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at N.E., and the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed, and steered for the channel above-mentioned, in hopes, after we were through, of finding the land trend away to the northward, or, at least, a passage out to sea to the W. For we supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be amongst islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not been long under sail, before the wind veered to the N.,. which obliged us to ply. The soundings were from forty to twenty-seven fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud. In the evening, the ebb making against us, we anchored about three leagues from our last station, with the passage bearing N.W.

At day-break the next morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at S., which carried us up to the passage, when it was succeeded by variable light airs from all directions. But as there run a rapid tide in our favour, the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not so fortunate. She was carried back, got into the race, and had some trouble to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, the land on one side was found to trend W. and S. W., and that on the other side to trend N. This gave us great reason to hope, that the continent had here taken a new direction, which was much in our favour. Being in want of water, and perceiving that we run some risk of driving about in a rapid tide, without wind to govern the ship, I stood for a harbour, lying on the S. side of the passage, but we were very soon driven past it, and, to prevent being forced back through the passage, came to an anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the southern shore, out of the reach of the strong tide. And yet, even here, we found it to run full five knots and a half in the hour.

While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us,

each

each in a canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, overset his canoe, while along-side of one of our boats. Our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift, and, being picked up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, was obliged to come into the ship; and he went down into my cabin, upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His dress was an upper garment, like a shirt, made of the large gut of some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment of the same shape, made of the skins of birds, dressed with the feathers on, and neatly sewed together, the feathered side being wore next his skin. It was mended or patched with pieces of silk-stuff, and his cap was ornamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and that of some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosity; for such as could not come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at them.8

At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into the harbour, we anchored there in nine fathoms water, over à bottom of sand and mud. The Discovery got in soon after. A launch was now sent for water, and a boat to draw the seine, but we caught only four trout, and a few other small fish.

Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to me, but it was written in the Russian language, which, as already observed, none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired.

In walking, next day, along the shore, I met with a group of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting

VOL. XVI.

X

8 Of Oonalashka, Unalashka, or Aghunalaska, for it is known by these three names, Mr Coxe has presented several interesting enough notices. The Russians were no strangers to it previous to this voyage.-E,

consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a turbot, served up with the richest sauce. By the evening, we had completed our water, and made such observations as the time and weather would permit. I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide without the harbour, but it was inconsiderable within. It was low water at noon, and high water at half-past six in the evening, and the water rose, upon a perpendicular, three feet four inches, but there were marks of its sometimes rising a foot higher.

Thick fogs, and a contrary wind, detained us till the 2d of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. The result of our observations will be mentioned in another place. At present I shall only describe the harbour.

It is called, by the natives, Samganoodha, and is situated on the north side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 58° 55', in the longitude of 193° 30'; and in the strait, or passage, that separates this island from those that lie to the north of it, and whose position before the harbour shelters it from the winds that blow from that quarter. It runs in S. by W., about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the entrance, narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above a quarter of a mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in seven, six, and four fathoms water. Great plenty of good water may be easily got, but not a single stick of wood of any size.

SECTION

SECTION VIII;

Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka.-The Islands Oonella and Acootan.-Ooneemak.-Shallowness of the Water along the Coast-Bristol Bay.-Round Island.-Calm Point-Cape Newenham.-Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report. Bristol Bay, and its Extent.-The Ships obliged to return on account of Shoals.-Natives come off to the Ships.-Death of Mr Anderson; his Character; and Island named after him.-Point Rodney.-Sledge Island, and Remarks on Landing there.-King's Island.-Cape Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of America. Course Westward.-Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia.

HAVING put to sea with a light breeze, at S.S.E., we steered to the N., meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course. For, as I observed before, the island of Oonalashka on the one side, trended S.W., and on the other, no land was to be seen in a direction more northerly than N.E., the whole of which land was a continuation of the same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the 25th of June. That which lies before Samganoodha, and forms the N.E. side of the passage through which we came, is called Oonella, and is about seven leagues in circumference. Another island to the N.E. of it, is called Acootan, which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath in it some very high mountains which were covered with snow. It appeared, that we might have gone very safely between these two islands and the continent, the S. W. point of which opened off the N.E. point of Acootan, in the direction of N. 60° E.; and which proved to be the same point of land we had seen when we quitted the coast of the continent, on the 25th of June, to go without the islands. It is called by the people of these parts Ooneemak, and lies in the latitude of 54° 30, and in the longitude of 192° 30'. Over the cape, which of itself is high land, is a round elevated mountain, at this time entirely covered with snow.

At six in the evening, this mountain bore E. 2° N., and at eight we had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, that the coast of the continent had now taken a north-easterly direction, I ventured to steer the same course till one

o'clock

2

o'clock the next morning, when the watch on deck thought they saw land a-head. Upon this we wore, and stood to the S.W. for two hours, and then resumed our course to the E.N.E.

At six o'clock, land was seen a-head, bearing S.E., about five leagues distant. As we advanced, we raised more and more land, all connected, and seemingly in the direction of our course. At noon, it extended from S.S.W. to E., the nearest part five or six leagues distant. Our latitude at this time was 55° 21', and our longitude 195° 18'. This coast is on the N.W. side of the volcano mountain, so that we must have seen it, if the weather had been tolerably clear.

At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon an E. by N. course from noon, we sounded, and found forty-eight fathoms, over a bottom of black sand. Being at this time four leagues from the land, the eastern part in sight bore E.S.E., and appeared as a high round hummock, seemingly detached from the main.

Having continued to steer E.N.E. all night, at eight in the morning of the 4th, the coast was seen from S.S.W. to E. by S.; and at times we could see high land, covered with snow behind it. Soon after it fell calm, and being in thirty fathoms water, we put over hooks and lines, and caught a good number of cod-fish. At noon, having now a breeze from the east, and the weather being clear, we found ourselves six leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to E. by S. The hummock, seen the preceding evening, bore S.W. by S. ten leagues distant. Our latitude was now 55° 50', and our longitude 197° 3′. A great hollow swell, from W.S.W., assured us that there was no main land near in that direction. I stood to the N. till six in the afternoon, when the wind having veered to S.E., enabled us to steer E.N.E. The coast lay in this direction, and at noon, the next day, was about four leagues distant.

On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made but little progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, we were in nineteen fathoms water, and about three or four leagues from the coast, which, on the 8th, extended from S.S.W. to E. by N., and was all low land, with a ridge of mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is probable, that this low coast extends, some distance, to the S.W.; and that such places as we sometimes took for inlets or bays, are only valleys between the mountains.

On