SECTION V.

Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the South-East Side of Mowee.-Driven to Leeward by the Easterly Winds and Current-Pass the Island of Tahoorowha.-Description of the South-West Side of Mowee.Run along the Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.Description of the North-East Coast of Woahoo.-Unsuccessful Attempt to Water.-Passage to Atooi.-Anchor in Wymoa Bay Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore. Civil Dissensions in the Islands.-Visit from the contending Chiefs.-Anchor off Onecheow.-Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands.

We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward, with an intention of searching for a harbour on the S.E. side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to leeward by a heavy swell from the N.E., and a fresh gale springing up from the same quarter, carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we tacked, and stood to the S. for four hours, in order to keep clear of the land; and at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to the S.W. of Mowee.

All prospect of examining more nearly the S.E. parts of Mowee being now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the S.E. side of Tahoorowa. As we were steering close round its western extremity, with an intention of fetching the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks almost right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we again steered to the northward; and, after passing over a bank, with nineteen fathoms water, stood for a passage between Mowee and an island called Ranai. noon the latitude was, by observation, 20° 42′ N., and the longitude 203° 22′ E.; the southern extremity of Mowee bearing E.S.E. E.; the southern extremity of Ranai W.N.W. W.; Morotoi, N.W. and by N.; and the western extremity of Tahoorowa, S. by E., seven miles distant.

At

Our

Our longitude was accurately deduced from observations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by a great many distances of the moon from the sun and stars, which were also observed the same day.

In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the W., we stood on to the N.Ñ.W.; but at sun-set, observing a shoal, which appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the W. point of Mowee, toward the middle of the passage, and the weather being unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the S.

The S.W. side of this island, which we now had passed without being able to get near the shore, forms the same distant view with the N.E., as seen on our return from the N., in November 1778; the mountainous parts, which are connected by a low flat isthmus, appearing at first like two separate islands. This deception continued on the S.W. side, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the coast, which, bending inward to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned runs, is made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which there is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number of cocoanut trees growing about them.

During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the natives, who came off to sell provisions, and we soon found that they had heard of our late unfortunate transac tions at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed herself on board the Resolution, in order to take her passage to Atooi; enquiring eagerly after Pareea and some other chiefs, and appearing much shocked at the death of Kaneena and his brother. We had, however, the satisfaction to find that, in whatever light the woman might have represented this business, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and submissive.

The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning of the 25th, having the wind at E., we ran along the S. side of Ranai, till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the W. part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from the time we

left

left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the N.E., changed its direction to the S.E.

During the night, the wind was again variable; but early next morning it settled at E., and blew so fresh as to oblige us to double-reef the top-sails. At seven, in hauling round the W. point of Morotoi, we opened a small bay, at the distance of about two leagues, with a fine sandy beach; but seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to the N., in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we had seen at our first visit in January 1778.

At two in the afternoon, we saw the land bearing W. by N., eight leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it was dark, we again bore away at day-light on the 27th; and at half-past ten, were within a league of the shore, near the middle of the N.E. side of the island.

The coast to the northward is formed of detached hills, rising perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken summits, the sides covered with wood, and the vallies between them of a fertile and well-cultivated appearance. To the southward we saw an extensive bay, bounded by a low point of land to the S.E., which was covered with cocoa-nut trees, and off it stood a high insulated rock, about a mile from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented our seeing distinctly the land to the southward of the point, we could only perceive that it was high and

broken.

As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it dangerous to entangle ourselves with a lee-shore, and therefore did not attempt to examine the bay, but hauled up, and steered to the northward in the direction of the coast. At noon, we were abreast of the N. point of the island, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and a half. The latitude, by observation, 21° 50′ N., longitude 202° 15′ E., the extreme parts of the island in sight bearing S.S.E. E., and S.W. by S. W.

Between the N. point and a distant head-land which we saw to the S.W., the land bends inward considerably, and appeared likely to afford a good road. We therefore directed our course along the shore, at the distance of about a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to thirteen fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river, running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an

anchor

anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the extreme points of the bay bearing S.W. by W. § W., and N.E. by E. E, and the mouth of the river S.E. E., one mile distant. In the afternoon I attended the two captains on shore, where we found but few of the natives, and those mostly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree, but that their chief, Perreeoranee, who had stayed behind, would certainly visit us as soon as he heard of our arrival.

We were much disappointed to find the water had a brackish taste for two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marshy ground through which it empties itself into the sea. Beyond this it was perfectly fresh, and formed a fine running stream, along the side of which I walked till I came to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched off to the right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic mountain. The banks of this river, and indeed the whole we saw of the N.W. part of Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of the country is uncom monly beautiful and picturesque.

As the watering at this place would have been attended with great labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; but not being able to land, on account of a reef of coral which stretched along the shore to the distance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we weighed, and stood to the northward till day-light on the 28th, when we bore away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon; and about sun-set, were off its eastern extremity, which shews itself in a fine green flat point.

It being too late to run for the road on the S.W. side of the island, where we had been the last year, we passed the night in plying on and off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, the bluffhead on the west side of the village, bearing N.E. by N. E., two miles distant; the extremes of the island, N.W. by W. W., and S.E. by E. E.; the island Oneeheow W. by S. W. In running down to the road, from the S.E. point of the island, we saw the appearance of shoal water in several places, at a considerable distance from the land; and when we were about two miles to the eastward of the anchoring-place, and two or three miles from the shore, we

got

got into four and a half fathoms water, although our soundings had usually been seven and eight fathoms.

We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several canoes came along-side of us; but we could observe that they did not welcome us with the same cordiality in their manner, and satisfaction in their countenances, as when we were here before. As soon as they got on board, one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder amongst their women, of which several persons of both sexes had died. He was himself afflicted with the venereal disease, and gave a very full and minute account of the various symptoms with which it had been attended. As there was not the slightest appearance of that disorder amongst them on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied that we were the authors of this irreparable mischief.

Our principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, with the pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner of the Resolution accompanied me to trade for provisions, and we had a guard of five marines. We found a considerable number of people collected upon the beach, who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as we got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former experience having taught me how difficult it was to repress this disposition, without having recourse to the authority of their chiefs, I was very sorry to find that they were all at another part of the island. Indeed we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading party, and had no sooner done it, and posted guards to keep off the crowd, than I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldiers' muskets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired, but returned in a moment, with a spear in one hand and a dagger in the other; and his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying his prowess with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by the latter's having given the man a slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without the line.

I now perceived that our situation required great circumspection and management; and accordingly gave the strict

est