attention and information. They carefully avoided all remarks regarding the government, and I was equally silent on this subject. I have visited the public gardens, theatres, concerts, picture galleries and museums of Vienna, and if one were to look only at the cheap and refined pleasure which is offered in them to the public, and of which the public largely and heartily partakes, he might consider the Austrians happy in the ignorance in which they are enveloped, and believe that the strifes, animosities, and discontent which generally accompany political liberty, are too high a price to pay for freedom. I conversed with the governor of a large and important Austrian town, and he roundly maintained this doctrine, and asserted that the people of Vienna were far happier than those of London, Manchester, or Edinburgh, and that any demagogues who should persuade them that they were not so, and who should teach them to refer all the sufferings of their lives to their government, would be their greatest enemies. But I have conversed also with educated and intelligent men who were not in the employment of government in any situation, and have heard a different tale. In mentioning to one gentleman the state of Phrenology in England and Paris, and expressing my surprise at its non-existence here, his answer was-"It is the philosophy only of free countrieshere we dare not study it." On asking a medical gentleman of reputation why the government did not improve the Lunatic Asylum, and place it on a par with similar institutions in other countries; he replied, "No man who should request to have it improved, and assign as a reason that it was inferior to the asylums of France, England, or Saxony, would be listened to. To improve such an institution would be to admit imperfection, and therefore it must continue as it is." I expressed to a medical man whom I found to be very polite and intelligent, a hope that I might have the pleasure of meeting him again in Scotland. His reply was" I should desire it much; you are free, and may go where you please, but here we must ask permission, and often it is not granted. Two of my friends wished to visit England at their own expense, they were refused passports, and told, You can learn everything connected with your profession here, why then go to countries where you will only waste time, spend your money, and bring home false notions?"" While these observations were made, the speaker whispered into my ear, and looked round anxiously to see that no one was within hearing. Another told me that the emperor is imbecile, and that although he speaks four or five languages, he is a mere passive instrument in the hands of Prince Metternich and other two ministers, who are called the triumvirs or three tyrants. The priests are allowed to rule the people as they please, provided they do not interfere with the government politics. I withhold the names of the gentlemen who expressed these sentiments, because they might be called to account for them, so watchful are the rulers. From these facts it appears that the Austrian government sits like a nightmare on the intellects of the people; and that if a man possess an active and vigorous mind, he must here suffer the worst of all tortures, that of being doomed to hopeless inactivity. Nature may bestow men like Dr. Adam Smith and Dr. Gall on Austria, but she will silence them, or send them into banishment. I perceive that this degradation is felt, and a prophet is not needed to tell that it cannot be permanent. I next visited a private lunatic asylum for patients of the higher classes; it is named " Irrenheitanstalt des Med. Doctor Göerger in Döbling." The board in this establishment is 6s., 88., and 10s. sterling a day, according to the extent of accommodation. It is a large handsome house, situated on a rising ground about three miles from Vienna, and it commands a most delicious view of a rich and variegated country. The apartments are large, light, and handsome. There are no bars or external means of confinement, except on the windows, which are elegantly grated. An extensive garden and pleasureground are attached to the establishment, with baths and musicroom, and every apartment is heated and ventilated by means. of pipes conveying hot and cold air from the lower story. The necessary restraint is supplied by a watchful superintendence of servants. The patients are allowed to go excursions in carriages and on foot when they can profit by it. The resident assistant, Dr. Benesch, possesses excellent moral and intellectual organs, and he showed us the establishment, and explained all its arrangements. I am, &c. VIENNA, 23d July, 1837. SIR,I wrote to you on the 20th of July, that no phrenologist could be found in Vienna; but I have now to report that "nothing is denied to well directed industry." I continued my researches, and at last was introduced by Herr Wolfe, of the Imperial Library, to Baron Hammer Purgstall. This gentleman had studied under Dr. Gall, and been satisfied that his doctrine is true, and he therefore entertains a respect for it, and knew me by reputation, although he has not seen my books. He is a distinguished Orientalist, an Aulic Counsellor of Vienna, and is moreover the heir of Countess Purgstall, concerning whom Captain Basil Hall has written a romance under the title of Schloss Hainfield. He placed me in a train by which I at last discovered Madame Becker the daughter of the brother of Dr. Gall's first wife, and shall now proceed to give you a detail of some of the facts which I learned from her. Dr. Gall's first wife was named Catherine Leissler. Her father was Chirurgien-Major in the French Army at Strasburgh, of which he was a native; and she herself was educated in a boarding school at Metz. Her brother had a daughter named Rosalie Leissler, and she went to live with Madame Gall, her aunt, when she was very young, and resided in family with her and Dr. Gall until he left Vienna. She is now married to Herr Becker, who has a small property at Margarethenam Moos, but who resides in Vienna in Stadt Freyung, Hotel Zum Römischen Kaiser, which he manages. They are both between 50 and 60, and speak French. They entertain a great veneration for Dr. Gall, and are perfectly aware that he was a distinguished character. Madame Becker mentioned that there are still living at Tiefenbrunn, a large number of Dr. Gall's relations, who know that he was a great man of science, and are proud of him; but they do not under tand his doctrine. They are worthy commonplace people. Dr. Gall resided in Vienna upwards of thirty years, and was recognised as an able physician. He was the friend of Dr. Stoerk, Physician to Maria-Theresa, the Emperor Joseph, and also to Francis I. at the commencement of his reign. On a vacancy occurring in the office of medical counsellor of state, Dr. Stoerk recommended Dr. Gall to the Emperor, Francis the First, and the Emperor expressed his readiness to give effect to the recommendation. Dr. Gall, however, stated that he was not born for a Court, and that he disliked the restraints which it would impose on him, and declined the intended honour; but he recommended Dr. Stifft; and by the influence of Dr. Stoerk he was named to the vacant office. This occurred about the year 1794, or 1795. Dr. Stifft in the course of time became Physician to the Emperor and President of the Faculty of Medicine; and in this capacity he advised the Emperor that Phrenology was dangerous and immoral in its tendency, upon which opinion Gall was prohibited from teaching. Dr. Stifft was a man of no talent as a Physician, but a great politician and intriguer. He was styled "Sa Majesté. Medicinale," on account of his overwhelming influence and dogmatism. Dr. Stifft died two years ago, and Dr. Raimann, his son-in-law, is now Physician to the Court. He is a man of talent, a good physician, and no politician. He takes no interest in Phrenology. Prince Metternich was a pupil of Dr. Gall. He was then Count Clement, and not powerful. Madame Becker recollects that often when she wished to speak with Dr. Gall, she was told that he was engaged with Count Clement. The Prince renewed his acquaintanceship with Dr. Gall in Paris, and when he resided there as Ambassador to Napoleon, he sent letters and small packets to and from Vienna, to accommodate Dr. Gall and his friends, in his official bag. In 1814-15, the Emperor of Austria saw Dr. Gall at Paris after the Peace, and asked him to return to Vienna. He declined to do so, and assigned as his reason that he was now established in Paris, and would be forced to begin the world again if he removed to Vienna. He wrote this fact to Madame. Becker from Paris, and she knows it to be authentic. Catherine Leissler, Dr. Gall's first wife, accompanied him for 6 or 7 months after he was forced to quit Vienna, but never lived with him afterwards. She died on the 26th March, 1825. Dr. Gall in the meantime had formed a connection with a woman whom he married after his wife's death, and who survived him. Madame Becker possesses an original portrait of Dr. Gall, which I saw, painted when he was 49 years of age, by Jagemann of Weimar. It represents the head and the face from the bottom of the nose upwards, pretty much like the later pictures, only the eyes indicate a larger organ of language than Dr. Gall acknowledges himself to have possessed. The mouth and lower part of the face express the propensities strongly. The artist had a great reputation, but the picture did not strike me as one of much merit. There is an expression of profound reflection in the eyes. She possesses also a bust of him in wax, miniature size, modelled in Berlin in 1806 or 1807, but it is in the country, and I did not see it. In 1824 or 1825, she, by desire of Dr. Gall, presented to Dr. Roulett, at Baden, near Vienna, that part of his collection of skulls and casts which he left here. Dr. Roulett lives still, and continues to take an interest in the Science. I regretted that I did not discover this fact, until after my visit to Baden, and when it was impossible for me to return to it. The following Individuals who were intimate acquaintances of Dr. Gall are still living, and could furnish anecdotes of his life, viz. In Vienna, Baron Hammer Purgstall. Dr. Jäger, Professor at the Josepheum, and Physician to Prince Metternich. Dr. Wirer. He is a distinguished physician, and an extensive proprietor at Ischl, a romantic village about twenty miles South of Saltzburg, to which the Court retires during the summer. He was the first to bring its attractions into public notice. Dr. Jäger and Dr. Wirer were friends and companions of Dr. Gall, but they do not prosecute Phrenology. At Paris Dr. Dancey was much with Dr. Gall, and may know something of his history. Dr. Gall's residences in Vienna were the following: In Graben, coin de Spiegel Gasse, he lived about 15 Planken Gasse, now Neuner's Caffee haus, · 5 or 6 years. 11 years. 1 year. From this house, he went to Berlin. In summer, he lived in Landstrasse Unger Gasse No. 371.; but generally only for a few days at a time. The house now belongs to the order of the Redemptorists. Madame Becker described Dr. Gall as having been gay, simple and good-natured in his domestic manners, and totally without pretension. She showed me some kind letters written by him to her in 1826 and 1827. He died in 1828. She possesses an excellent Parisian medal of him. I have obtained a letter of introduction from Baron Hammer to Dr. Jäger, and shall go to Ischl, and hope to see him and probably also Prince Metternich. I am, &c. FRANKFORT ON THE MAIN, the 9th September, 1837. SIR,- As mentioned in my last letter addressed to you from Vienna, I proceeded to Ischl bearing a letter of introduction to Dr. Jäger, Physician to Prince Metternich. To my great disappointment, the letter was returned to me there, with the information that a few days before my arrival, the prince had gone into Bohemia accompanied by Dr. Jäger, and that he was not expected to return for several weeks. The emperor, however, and some other members of the imperial family, were residing in that beautiful retreat among the mountains of Upper Austria, and also several families from Vienna, to one of whom I had likewise letters of recommendation. I was gratified to meet, in this society, with Mr. an old and stedfast friend of Dr. Gall. This gentleman is now in his seventy-sixth year, and was intimately acquainted with Dr. Gall during his residence in Vienna. He confirmed the intelligence communicated by Madame Becker, that Dr. Stifft was the moving |