civility never refused to a foreign flag in ordinary cases, and which we received from every other nation represented here; except that, informed of our object, and pursuing the same line of conduct with his colleague at Tripoli, he thought by these means to defeat that object. I found means however, the means that move every thing in this quarter of the globe, to remove this difficulty; and finally obtained the Vice Roy's letter of amnesty and passport of safe conduct to Hamet Bashaw, which were dispatched to him on the 15th, in quadruplicates and by different conveyances. I now patiently waited the issue of measures thus far pursued. Mean time I busied myself in finding out the Tripolitan emigrants in this country; their attachments to the rival brothers and their feelings towards the Americans. Among these, one appeared who was only ninety days from Tripoli; an Arnaut Turk who had been in the service of Joseph Bashaw during the blockade of last summer, whom I had under particular examination. Supposing himself conversing with English men, he was very unreserved in his confessions, and being decidedly in the interest of the enemy (he was enthusiastic in his cause though willing to dispense with his honors) his story deserves the more credit. He said, " Tripoli had lost many men in the different attacks of the Americans last summer: the town was much damaged and the inhabitants under such a state of consternation that no body slept in the city, and that no business was done there. He confirmed the account of the fire ship, Infernal, being blown up by Capt. Somers, after having been boarded by two row gallies. Stating this fact the fellow wept. He observed that the war had been unfortunate to the cruizers. They had been led to believe that the Americans were all merchantmen, and that they should have nothing to do but to go out and bring them in : but they found them devils, from whom nothing was to be gained in war, and therefore he quitted the service of Joseph Bashaw. The Bashaw was never

theless determined not to make peace with these infidels until he shall have humbled them and made. them pay for the damages they had done to his navy and city." He acknowledged that Hamet Bashaw had many friends in Tripoli; but said, Joseph Bashaw had taken care of him! It is ascertained that the latter has employed assassins to poison the former. These undoubtedly have reported that they had executed their commission: and hence we account for the report of Hamet Bashaw's death.

On the 8th instant, I received from the, Bashaw an answer to my letter from Cairo, dated the 28th, of the month Ramadam, corresponding with the 3d January, stating that he should that day depart for this province and take lodgings at the house of an Arab chief, by name Ab'd'el gavir el be Kourchi, where he should wait to meet me. But as my letters to him, dated after the Vice Roy's amnesty, all advised him to repair to the English house at Rosetta, under the guarantee of the Vice Roy's passport, and believing he might push his march thither, I left Cairo for that place on the 13th instant, and arrived in three days. Nothing additional appearing there, I proceeded to Alexandria on the 19th. On the 20th, received the Bashaw's answer to my letter of 28th November, of the same tenor with that I received from him at Cairo. It appeared that not confiding in the Vice Roy's dispositions concerning him, or perhaps not having received his letter of amnesty before leaving the Mameluke camp, the Bashaw had determined to expect an interview at the place he had first named near the lake Fiaum, on the border of the desert, about one hundred and ninety miles from the sea coast. Nothing can be more incredulous than a Turk of a Turk's honor; and for a good reason: nothing can be more equivocal than their plighted faith.

Though travelling in the interior of this country has become unusually hazardous on account of the jealousy of the Turkish chief; of the reins given to

my

licentiousness by the barbarity of civil war; and of the strong grounds the wild Arabs hold by reason of all restraint being relaxed on the part of the Turks and Mamelukes who are too seriously occupied with each other; I determined to attempt a passage to Fiaum. Accordingly, on the 22d instant, I left Alexandria with two officers from the Argus, Lieutenant Blake and Mr. Mann, and an escort of 23 men indifferently mounted, and on the evening of the 23d, found myself arrested at the Turkish lines, between seventy and eighty miles on my rout, by the Kerchief of Damanhour, commanding a detachment of a bout five hundred Ottoman troops on the frontier. No argument I could devise could at all mollify the severity of his first resolution, not to let me pass his lines, though in every thing else he treated us with distinction and great hospitality. However mortifying the confession. I cannot but applaud the correct military conduct of this chief; for it was, in itself, a suspicious circumstance, that a body of armed, unknown foreigners, should be found shaping a course for his enemy's rendes vous, with no other pretext than to search for a Refugee Bashaw! But this suspicious circumstance was strengthened and aggravated by the insinuation gone out from the French Consul, that we came into this country with secret views hostile to the Turks. Our situation here was somewhat perplexing, and vastly unpleasant. I do not recollect ever having found myself on a ground more critical. To the natural jealousy of a Turk this General added a fierce and savage temper; of course proud and vain. Here was my point of approach. I passed high compliments on the correctness of his military conduct and vigilance. Said it was what I apprehended; and what I certainly would have done myself in similar circumstances. But knowing from character the magnanimity of his soul, I was determined to have an interview with him, in full confidence that he would aid a measure so purely humane, and so manifestly favorable to the

Turkish interest in Egypt, in case he could not permit me to pursue my object personally. At the same time, recurring to the example of the Vice Roy, whose letter I had showed him, and signifying that I had it in charge to tender him a douceur in testimony of our exalted opinion of his name and merit: he was moved: said my confidence should not be disappointed; and called into his tent a chief of the Arab tribes called Ou ad Allis, a wandering host who have from time to time been driven or emigrated from the kingdom of Tripoli since the usurpation of Joseph Bashaw, to whom he stated my business, and asked if he could give any account of Hamet Bashaw. The young chief, in an extacy, exclaimed that he knew every thing! I requested him to declare himself for I had no secret in my relation with that Bashaw.

You have, Sir, already anticipated his story in the statement I have given of the Bashaw's actual position. He added that twenty thousand men, Barbary Arabs, were ready to march with him from this border to recover their native country and inheritance repeated that he knew our plan; and, now that he had seen me, he would pledge, his head to the Turkish General to bring me Hamet Bashaw in ten days. The Turk accordingly dispatched him the next morning on this message.

I could yet perceive some symptoms of suspicion and apprehension on the brow of my newly acquired and military friend. Wherefore, without seeming to have any other view than a solicitude to meet the man I sought, but really with a view of removing his suspicions, I proposed to him to return to his head quarters, this village; send off my escort to Alexandria; and to wait myself, with only the Gentlemen in company and our servants, until our Arab chief should return from Fiaum with the Bashaw. This proposal had its desired effect. We left him and retired to a handsome pavillion prepared for the purpose; took refreshments he had ordered to be in

readiness; and the next morning returned, with an additional escort from his camp, to this place; where we found handsome, lodgings in Turkish stile prepared for us.

Thus far I have sketched an abstract of my journal since we parted. Do you expect something of Egypt; its antiquities; curiosities; its wonders? You must be disappointed. I am too much occupied with modern affairs to ransack catacombs or climb pyramids; for the same reason I have not time. to gratify curiosity; and as to wonders can only notice what I cannot help being impressed with, the wonderful ignorance, wonderful stupidity, wonderful tyranny and wonderful wretchedness which so strongly mark the features of a country once the weils er of the world for science, wisdom, wholesome police and rational happiness. Here is matter for a volume. I can only devote six lines to the subject. Not a man reads here; yet none but thinks himself divinely taught. The Kerchief of whom I have spoke above, in a little excursion to gather contribution, has cut off between fifty and sixty peasant's heads for no other crime than poverty. And just without the eastern gate of this village a gallows is now erecting to hang a child of twelve years, the only son of a chief of the village Rahmania, because his father cannot pay the contribution levied on him! GOD? I thank thee that my children are Ameri

cans!

January 31st. Since I began this letter circumstances have accumulated to render our situation more aukward, and I may well say ridiculous, The next day after entering the house, where we quarter, a markee was raised upon the terrace of an adjoining house, and a Turkish guard mounted there under pretext of fresh air. Armed Turks were sent into the house to remain with us, for the purpose of accompanying us as a life guard in our walks and a sentinel was placed at our door in the lower court to prevent intruders. Though these arrangements