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made by art, and from ostentation. Teos was thirty stadia, or three miles and three quarters from Gerae, and fronted the sea on the south side. It was equidistant from Erythrae and Chios, sixty one miles and a half from each by the coast.
In the morning we crossed the isthmus to Teos, now called Bodrun. AVe found this city almost as desolate as Erythrae and Clazomene. The walls, of which traces are extant, were, as we guessed, about five miles in circuit; the masonry handsome. Without them, by the way, are vaults of sepulchres stripped of their marble, as it were forerunners of more indistinct ruin. Instead of the stately piles* which once impressed ideas of opulence and grandeur, we saw a marsh, a field of barley .in ear, buffaloes ploughing heavily by defaced heaps and prostrate edifices, high trees supporting aged vines, and fences of stones and rubbish, with illegible inscriptions, and time-worn fragments. It was with difficulty we discovered the temple of Bacchus, but a theatre in the side of the hill is more conspicuous. The vault only, on which the seats ranged, remains, with two broken pedestals in the area. It fronted 15m. west of south.
The city-port is partly dry, and sand banks rise above the surface of the water. On the edge are vestiges of a wall, and before it are two small islets. On the left hand, or toward the continent, is a channel, which seemed artificial, the water not deep. I saw a boy wade across it. This, unless it be the mouth of a rivulet, was probably cut; for it seems as necessary to the completion of Alexander's plan, that a communication should have been made between the sea here and the bay of Gerae, as between that and the gulf of Smyrna; and it is remarkable that Pliny reckons Teos among the islands. Beyond it, on the shore before Sevri-hissar, which stands inland, are four or five tall barrows.
The heap of the temple of Bacchus, which was visible from the theatre, beneath, on the right hand, lay in the middle of a corn field, and is over-run with bushes and olive trees. It was one of the most celebrated structures in Ionia. The remains of it have been engraved, at the expense of the society of Dilettanti, and published with its history, in the Ionian Antiquities; and a beautiful portico has since been erected at the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Le Despenser, near High Wycomb, under the inspection of Mr. Revett, in which the exact proportions of the order are observed.
The town has long been deserted. It has no ruins of churches to prove it existed under the Greek emperors; nor of mosques or baths, to shew it was frequented by the Turks. In the time of Anacreon, the Teians migrated, from a love of liberty, to Thrace, but soon afterwards came back, and the city re-flourished. They are now utterly gone, and it is likely never to return. The site is a wilderness; and the low grounds, which are wet, produce the iris, or flag, blue and white. This flower is stamped on the money of Teos.- We saw cranes here stalking singly in the corn and grass, and picking up and gorging insects and reptiles; or flying heavily with long sticks in their mouths to the tops of trees, and of the remoter houses and chimnies, on which they had agreed to fix their habitation.
The master of a Venetian snow, in the harbour of Segigeck, furnished us with a small quantity of wine, but of a poor quality; otherwise we should have drunk only water on a spot once sacred to Bacchus, and able to supply a Roman fleet. The grave Turk, its present owner, predestines the clusters of the few vines it now bears, for his food, when ripened; or to be dried in the sun, as raisins, for sale.
To Sevri-hissar—Quarries of marble—The town—The
Our apprehensions of danger from the Kara-borniotes were now at an end. We dismissed the janizary, whom we had engaged at Vourla, and on the evening of the second day after our arrival, proceeded to Sevri-hissar, distant one hour south-eastward. We came, soon after leaving Segigeck, between two conical rocks, one of a green aspect, the other brown and bare. The tall trees by the road-side were covered with spreading vines, and at a well was a marble pedestal perforated, and serving as a mouth. The front of it is inscribed with large characters,* and it once supported the statue of a great and munificent person, whose name it has not preserved.
The grey marble used by the Teians was found at no great distance from the city. The rocks above-mentioned are probably remains of the quarry, to which also the high rocky mount, about a mile north of Teos, seen in the view in the Ionian Antiquities, belonged. This, as Pococke relates, has, on the west-side, a small lake in a deep basin, which, it is imagined by the people, feeds all the fountains about
Inscript. Ant. p. 7»
the country; and to the south of the lake is a hollow ground, where are near twenty large pieces of grey marble, each cut out into several steps, of a size which would be very difficult to move. On one he saw inscribed, Loco Imi.
Sevri-hissar is an extensive straggling town, in a valley, two hours from the sea; and may be deemed the Vourla of the Teians. The country round it is pleasant and well cultivated. The Greeks, though numerous, have no church. We were lodged in a wretched mud-built khan, by which is a lively brook, running west-north-westward. A stone bridge has been erected over it, and several piers remain. We had crossed it more than once on the way from Segigeck. We had here reason to dislike, and to be alarmed, at the carriage of some of our Turkish visitants, but the janizary was our safe-guard.
Many scattered remnants of the ancient city occur at Sevri-hissar.* One, fixed in the wall of a house, mentions the two societies, the Panathenaists and the Dionysiasts. At the time of the Ionic migration a colony of Athenians took possession of Teos. These appear to have introduced the Panathenaea, the grand festival of their parent city. A crown of olive encircles the name of the community, which had the care of its celebration; and one of ivy that of the Dionysiasts, who were artificers, or contractors for the Asiatic theatres, incorporated and settled at Teos under the kings of Pergamum.-j- I copied a long decree made by one of their companies in honour of its magistrates. The slab was placed as a grave-stone in a Turkish burying-ground, where the man, who shewed it me, with some assistance, laid it
* Strata, p. G43. t Inscript. Ant. p. 7, 8, 10.
flat, and a heavy shower falling, rendered the characters, which are large, and uninjured, easily legible. The thanks of the community, with a crown of olive, are given as a re* compense for their great liberality and trouble in office; and to perpetuate their memory, and- excite an emulation of their merit, it is besides enacted, that the decrees be engraved, but at their expense: so desirable was this testimony to the individuals, and so frugal the usage in bestowing it.
We arrive at Hypsile—The Myonnesus—Hypsile a
The next day, April the 1st, in the afternoon, the weather proving fair, we continued our journey southward -r and, soon after setting out, had a low mountain on our left hand, with an opening in it, and a wide, but dry watercourse, which we crossed, and then passed over hills and dales by small inclosures, regularly planted with oaks. Many of these supported vines, and between the rows was barley in ear and other grain. The valanea, or large acorns, which they produce, are exported, chiefly to Italy, where the tanners use them instead of bark. Coming to the shore, we turned a little to the left, and ascended a very lofty hill,, commanding a most extensive view of a picturesque country, of the sea-coast, and islands. Near the top is a fountain, and over it a stone, on which is cut the Greek crossWe alighted, after a pleasant ride of three hours, at Hypsile„