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pace with him, separated from our servants, who followed with our baggage behind. It was dusk, and Changlee lying up from the sea, escaped our observation. We expected to arrive there every minute, and rode on, until we came to the foot of Mount Mycale, and the beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we discovered a tract with a gate before it, and went on, not doubting but the village was ncar. Steep succeeded steep; the way slippery, uneven, often winding about vast chasms, or close by the brink of tremendous precipices, with the sea rolling beneath.
We were benighted and perplexed, the tract not being distinguishable, though the moon began to shine. We dismounted to lead our horses, when the janizary, who was a fat bulky man, and distressed by the bushes, which entangled in his long garments, bemoaned his situation, in broken Italian, with the most plaintive accents. We still persevered, suffering now from thirst even more than from fatigue, and at length heard the sound of water in a nook below us, when the moments seemed hours as we descended to it. After this refreshment we pushed on as well as we could, expecting to meet soon with some house or village, and commiserating our men and horses embroiled, as we conceived, with our baggage on the mountain behind us.
About two in the morning our whole attention was fixed by the barking of dogs, which, as we advanced, became exceedingly furious. Deceived by the light of the moon, we now fancied we could see a village, and were much mortified to find only a station of poor goat-herds, without even a shed, and nothing for our horses to eat. They were lying, wrapped in their thick capots or loose coats, by some glimmering embers, among the bushes in a dale, under a spreading tree by
the fold. They received us hospitably, heaping on fresla fuel, and producing caimac, or sour curds, and coarse bread, which they toasted for us on the coals. We made a scanty meal sitting on the ground, lighted by the fire and by the moon ; after which, sleep suddenly overpowered me. On waking I found my two companions by my side, sharing in the comfortable cover of the janizary's cloke, which he had carefully spread over us. I was now much struck with the wild appearance of the spot. The tree was hung with rustie utensils ; the she-goats in a pen, sneezed, and bleated, and rustled to and fro; the shrubs, by which our horses stood, were leafless, and the earth bare; a black cauldron with milk was simmering over the fire; and a figure more than gaunt or savage, close by us, was struggling on the ground with a kid, whose ears he had slit, and was endeavouring to cauterize with a piece of red hot iron.
We had now the mortification to hear, that our labour was. fruitless, and that we must return the way we came, both we and our horses fasting. We left the goat-herds, and found the tract, which we had passed in the dark, full of danger even by day. We consumed near four hours on the mountain in going back. Descending from it to the beach we espied one of our Armenians, who was seeking us with a guide. They conducted us to Giaur-Changlee, a small Greek village near a shallow stream. By the way was a mean church, with a ruined inscription in the portico. We were welcomed by our men, who were waiting, in great perplexity and anxiety, at the house of the papas or priest. They had been out the whole night in quest of us, discharging their guns and pistols, hoping the report would reach us; but in vain. We rested at Changlee the remainder of the day.
The next morning, April the 9th, it rained; but about ten we mounted, and leaving the bay on our left hand, proceeded with a guide toward Mycale. We soon came to Turkish Changlee, which is seated higher up by a stream, then rapid and turbid. I saw by the mosque an inscription, which I wished to copy, but was accidentally the last of our caravan; and after our late adventure was cautious of separating from the rest. There, it is likely, was the site of Panionium, and of the temple of Neptune. The river was named the Gæsus or Gessus, and entered the sea on the coast called Trogilia. Two days before, the stream was inconsiderable, the mouth not wide, and crossed by a bar of sand.
The sacred region Panionia ending, as we supposed, a broken pavement carried us over some roots of Mycale to a pleasant valley, in which a water-course commences. Several copious rills descended from the sides of the mountain, on which was an over-shot mill or two. The torrent farther on had torn down the banks, which were steep, with corn standing thick on the very brink. At a fountain by the way is an ancient coffin with an inscription in Greek. I could read only a couple of the lines. About two we came in sight of Suki, and went on, without stopping, to Giaur-Kelibesh, where we arrived, April the 9th, at five in the evening.
At Kelibesh-Zingari or gypsies-Women lamenting
GIAUR-KELIBESII is a small village, inhabited, as the name imports, by Christians or Greeks. It is situated on the east-side of Mount Mycale, the houses rising on a slope, and enjoying a fine view over the plain. The church is mean, and was encompassed with graves. It appeared as a place recently settled. We were here not far from the ruins of Priene, on which we employed some days, returning before sunset to Kelibesh.
During our stay at the village, some of the vagrant people, called Atzincari or Zingari, the gypsies of the east, came thither with a couple of large apes, which, their masters singing to them, performed a great variety of feats with extraordinary alertness, and a dexterity not to be imagined, such as raised highly our opinion of the docility and capacity of that sagacious animal.
One evening, coming from the ruins, we found an old woman sitting by the church on the grave of her daughter, who had been buried about two years. She wore a black veil, and pulling the ends alternately, bowed her head down to her bosom ; and at the same time lamented aloud, singing in an uniform dismal cadence, with very few pauses. She continued thus above an hour, when it grew dark ; fulfilling a measure of tributary sorrow, which the Greeks superstitiously. believe to be acceptable, and beneficial, to the souls of the deceased. The next morning a man was interred, the wife following the body; tearing her long dishevelled tresses in agony; calling him her life, her love; demanding the reason of his leaving her; and expostulating with him on his dying, in terms the most expressive of conjugal endearments and affection.
The Greeks now celebrated Easter. A small bier, prettily decked with orange and citron buds, jasmine, flowers, and boughs, was placed in the church, with a Christ crucified rudely painted on board, for the body. We saw it in the evening; and before day-break were suddenly awakened by the blaze and crackling of a large bonfire, with singing and shouting in honour of the resurrection. They made us presents of coloured eggs, and cakes of Easter-bread.
The weather had been unsettled. The sky was blue, and the sun shone, but a wet, : wintry north-wind swept the clouds along the top of the range of Mycale. We were sitting on the floor early one morning at breakfast, with the door, which was toward the mountain, open ; when we discovered a small rainbow just above the brow. The sun was then peeping only over the opposite mountain, and, as it got higher, the arch widened and descended toward us; the cattle, feeding on the slope, being seen through it, tinged with its various colours as it passed down, and seeming in the bow. This phenomenon is probably not uncommon in the mountainous region of Ionia and Greece.
Let us suppose a devout heathen one of our company, when this happened. On perceiving the bow descend, he would have fancied Iris was coming, with a message to the earth, from Jupiter Pluvius; and if he had beheld the bow