View, from the Summit of Helicon, of a Mountain now called Delphos, in Eubea, CHAP. IV. GROVE OF THE MUSES, UPON MOUNT HELICON, TO LEBADEA. Plants of Helicon-View from the Heights - Valley of Sagara-Ascra-Summit of Helicon-Descent of the Mountain-Kotûmala- Panori-Lebadéa- House of the Archon-Manners of the higher class of Modern Greeks-Order of their meals-Society-PaywooiCeremony observed in holding a Divân - Low prideDresses Etiquette concerning slippers - Albanian Tenants-Joannina-Modern state of Lebadéa-Hieron of Trophonius-Uncertainty respecting the AdytumSources of the Hercyna-Validity of the remarks by Pausanias-Further account of the sources of the River -Water CHAP. IV. Helicon. these appellations -Water of Oblivion-Water of Memory-Origin of General aspect of the Hieron Receptacles for the votive offerings-Throne of Mnemosyne-Stoma of the Adytum-Attempt to explore the interior-Situation of the Consecrated Grove-Its original decorations-Denuded state of the antient city -Acropolis-Commerce of LEBA DÉA. FROM the Grove of the Muses we descended towards the PERMESSUS; and crossing that rivulet, quitted this charming scene, and continued our journey, north-west, towards the higher parts of MOUNT HELICON. The weather was stormy: and as we ascended almost to the summit of this part of the mountain, we saw Plants of only the Snow-drop in bloom, although we had left the Crocus and Heath in full flower about Marathon; but all Boeotia is colder than Attica. We have already alluded to the fact of snow falling in January, so as to bury the doors of the cottages. This happens also at THEBES. In ATHENS, Snow is rarely seen; but when it falls there, it is considered as a promising indication of a good crop of olives for the ensuing summer. Pausanias relates', that no unwholesome plants are found in HELICON: perhaps he did not place (1) "Αγουσι δὲ οἱ περὶ τὸν Ἑλικῶνα οἰκοῦντες καὶ ἁπάσας ἐν τῷ ὄρει τὰς τίας, καὶ τὰς ῥίζας ἥδιστα ἐπὶ ἀνθρώπου θανάτῳ φύεσθαι. Paus. Baotice, c. 28. p. 764. ed. Kuhnii, Fungi in his class of vegetables: we noticed a white mushroom that is not considered eatable in England. Many however of the Fungus tribe are much esteemed in foreign countries as luxurious food, which the inhabitants of our country consider as poisonous. In Russia, they are almost all eaten indiscriminately, salted, and thus kept for winter use. It is observed by Martyn, that many have suffered disease, and some even death, from eating voraciously or incautiously of funguses; but that it is doubtful whether many of them be really poisonous, in the strict and proper sense of the word'. The other plants, as we ascended the mountain, were, Thyme, Sage, and Balm; with few or no trees, excepting the Vallonia Oak, appearing as a shrub. In the lower parts of Helicon, as about the Monastery of St. Nicholo, and in sheltered places nearer to the summit, the Vallonia grows to a tree of considerable magnitude. Wherever the naked surface of the mountain was disclosed, we found the rocks to consist of limestone. A craggy narrow path, along which our horses proceeded with difficulty, conducted us to the heights above Sagără, or Sacra, whence the mountain has received its modern ? (2) See Martyn's edit. of Miller's Dict. vol. 1. Part 2, (Article Fungus.) Lond. 1807. (3) Ibid. СНАР. IV. IV. View from the Heights. CHAP. appellation; and not, as Wheler relates, from the abundance of the hares found upon it. Here we observed a part of the antient paved causeway, which formerly led from THESPIA to ASCRA and LEBADEA'. Crocuses, and other early plants, were in flower. The weather, which had before been boisterous in this elevated region, was changed suddenly to the finest temperature of spring. We saw from hence all Boeotia, with here and there more distant regions and towering summits, whose bearings by the compass we immediately ascertained. The following statement will give the situation of the principal objects thus viewed from the N. E. side of HELICON; and the Vignette to this Chapter exhibits the appearance presented by the highest mountain of Eubea, bearing East and by North, from the same point of view; the sea being here admitted into the prospect. E. and by N. Highest Mountain of NEGROPONT S. E. and by E. tween the mountain CITHARON and the spectator, in this fine of observation, the high tower near Panaja, oc curring as the first principal object. Helicon concealed all the other western and southern points of the panoramic circle. (1) Rectiùs Asßáðum, ut 'Eλárum, et similia. Vid. Annot. Sylburgii in Pausan. p. 788. edit. Kuhnii. The Plain of LEBADEA appeared through two gaps or openings of the mountain, bearing N. and by E. and E. N. E.; the villages of the Greater and Lesser Mulchy being at the foot of HELICON, in this direction; and beyond them, in the plain, the village of Topola. CHAP. IV. Sagără. Our road extended s. E. and N. w. - -The distance from Neocorio to this spot is reckoned a journey of two hours; and it required almost another hour to descend into the deep valley in which Sagără is situate. The view of it, from Valley of above, somewhat resembles the appearance of the remarkable valley of Urseren, or Ursaria, in the passage of St. Gothard, in the Alps; but it is still more inclosed; and it is walled in by bolder acclivities, being entirely surrounded by high rocks, and by the towering summits of HELICON. Below is seen a level plain, whose woods and corn-fields are almost buried in the deep bosom of the mountain. A very steep and rugged descent at last conducted us into this sequestered vale; and as we drew near to the village of Zagără, here situate, the same pleasing notes of shepherds' pipes which we had heard at St. Nicholo, with the cheerful noise of bells tinkling in the groves, seemed to give gladness to the scene, and again to welcome our coming, A river, flowing across this valley, divides the village into two parts; one being |