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III.

Barrier-Resemblance to Switzerland-Luongosby-
Ingenuity of the Peasants-Their Hunting Occupations
-Beggars unknown in Sweden-Condition of the
Peasants-their Seizure of a Smuggling Cargo-Tradi-
tionary Origin of the Name of their Province-Grey
Squirrels-Turnip Field on the Roof of a House-
Beautiful Valley-Funnesdal Sion-Alpine Plants-
Malmagen-Curious Fish-Extraordinary Rencontre―
-Cause of the Prohibition of Coffee.

CHAP. DURING the short time that elapsed after our return to Umeå, the Swedish hospitality was We expe

Second

Reception again displayed, in all its force.

at Umeå.

rienced the greatest kindness and attention from all the principal inhabitants; and among these, the civilities and friendship shewn to us by Captain Donnar and Mr. Thalin ought to be more particularly acknowledged. As we had visited Lapland, we were regarded with an increased curiosity; which the more amused us, because they are themselves considered, in England, as a people belonging to Lapland, and they actually reside upon its frontier. The Lapland wizards are supposed to possess the art of palmistry: this being believed in Umeå, as we were now somewhat acquainted with the gossip of the place, we pretended also to have acquired the same art, and contrived to foretell events after the usual manner of all fortunetellers; an expedient which afforded no small

III.

degree of merriment while we staid. The only CHAP. serious part of it was, that, among a people credulous in the extreme, some were not wanting who put more faith in our cheiromancy than we desired. Among others, there came to us a Gentleman who gravely and earnestly besought us to tell him, aye or no, whether he should survive his wife. It was in vain that we protested against the idea of any thing serious in our manual divination: he would not be satisfied without an answer. At last, to put an end to his importunity, as his wife was much older than himself, we told him we thought he would; but added, You need not tell your wife this." Upon which, shrugging up his shoulders, he said, "She knows it already: I have made the same inquiry before, of persons who understood palmistry, and received the same answer!"

Raw salmon is esteemed as great a luxury in Umeå as it is in Torneå. Captain Donnar preferred it before any delicacy of the table. Throughout Westro-Bothnia, it is customary to ask for what are called "sentiments," in drinking parties, as in England. There is no sentiment more heartily hailed by the company, than one which contains some expression of sarcasm or ridicule against the Danes. An anecdote of Anecdote Colonel Steinbock, when a prisoner in Denmark, Steinbock.

of Colonel

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CHAP. as related by Captain Donnar, whether true or false, will serve to shew the antipathy of the Swedes towards the Danes. They had used him very ill, during his confinement; but before he was fully liberated, he was permitted to go to Court. In his youth, he had amused himself in learning the art of making shoes. This was known to the Queen; who intending to pay him a compliment, desired to have a pair of shoes of his making, ready for a ball at court on the following evening. Colonel Steinbock assented, upon condition that her Majesty would provide the materials. This being done, the shoes were made and presented, and the Queen put them on. Finding, in the dance, that her shoes were all unsewed and coming to pieces, her Majesty exclaimed, "How now, Colonel! my feet are naked! The shoes were beautiful, but they are good for nothing!" "It is even so," said the Colonel; "but this is not more than I expected." "And why?" rejoined the Queen. Nay,” added the Colonel, "your Majesty asks why, when the cause is evident-the work is Swedish, but the materials are Danish!"

Overwhelming

66

The hospitality of the Swedes, which we have hospitality. So recently mentioned as being overwhelming, is often exceedingly troublesome, especially in provinces remote from the capital. They are

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never satisfied with the kindness they have CHAP. shewn towards a stranger, unless they can compel him to eat until he finds it impossible to swallow another morsel: like some of our good housewives in England, who, if they perceive their guest with his head averted and an empty plate, thrust a heap of provisions under his nose, and insist upon his eating the whole of them. But in Sweden, when a guest is almost choked with such kindness, and unable to bear another mouthful, the importunity continues to a degree that is painful. In the morning of our leaving Umeå, we had some fearful encounters of this kind. We had been previously told, that it was expected, as a point of etiquette, that we should breakfast, upon the day of our departure, with every family from whom we had experienced any civility. We were therefore prepared; and knowing what sort of a trial we had to sustain, we took care, by previous fasting, to begin our business of congé with the best possible appetite. At all these houses, the benevolent owners had set forth as sumptuous an entertainment as their means enabled them to supply; each striving to outvie the other. Some of the mistresses of families had been up all night, making the preparation. We began with our kind friend Dr. Nazén, hoping to manage the matter, by

III.

CHAP. eating a little with all: but this was soon perceived. Even our friend Nazén would not have it said that we had made an unfinished breakfast beneath his roof; and his wife joining her entreaties, to taste this, and taste that, the campaign was over on our part before we quitted his house. What was to be done? We had to run the gauntlet through all the other houses; and we consequently heard nothing but complaints and reproaches. The author in vain besought his friend Mr. Cripps, possessing better. feeding powers than himself, to gratify them, if it were only by swallowing a fried pancake. It would not do. One lady actually shed tears; saying, "She had nothing good enough, no doubt, for us; although she had worked hard to welcome us in a proper manner:"—in fact, this lady had not ceased to bake, boil, and roast, during the whole of the preceding night; and we would willingly have forfeited ten times the value of her collation, rather than have heard her make this remark. After offering the best apologies in our power, we took leave of them all. Dr. Nazén, and Captain Donnar, accompanied us to the ferry over the Umeå. This river is here one thousand and eleven English feet wide'. By an error

(1) There are some fine Cataracts distant a few English miles from Umeå. Mr. Cripps saw one of them; a fall forty or fifty feet perpen

dicular

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