CHAP. III. voyage, with a ship of 300 tons, Mr. Mutzell made 25,000 rix-dollars; but in those voyages, where so much depends upon the honesty of the master of the vessel, the risk is great. Here we saw, again, the extraordinary sight of a bear chained as a dog in the yard, to be fattened and killed for food'. This animal devoured daily as much as would satisfy two hogs. There was nothing of which it was so greedy, as the molasses from the sugar-manufactory. Sept. 10.-We left Sundswall. The scenery south of this place is the finest in Europe. In the third stage, after changing horses at Gnarp, we quitted the main road to Stockholm; suddenly turning round a church upon our right; when a magnificent prospect of the hills, vales, and forests of Helsingland opened before us. OsteroBothnia is not more highly cultivated, in any part of it, than are the rich valleys we passed through, after taking this westward route. At the end of this stage we descended towards the village of Bergsiö, situate upon a broad lake surrounded by Alpine forests, with a neat new church gracefully rising above the water. There is nothing in the Vale of Keswick superior to the scenery here. At this time, every thing con (1) See Chap. VI. of our preceding Volume. III. spired to render our views of it the more delight- CHAP. ful; the busy labours of harvest; the crimson splendour of the sun, setting behind the distant mountains; the melodies of the peasants' pipes; the deeper and more-resounding tones of the lure; "and all that echoed to the song of Even;" gave life, and spirit, and gladness, to the scenery; making it altogether enchanting. The musical sounds which we heard, proceeded from a simple instrument, like the old English flute now out of use in our country-the pipe of the Alpine shepherds: it is common in the valleys of Helsingland, and seems to characterize a livelier race of men than the inhabitants of the more northern provinces. We slept in great comfort at Bergsio; and the next day we passed a series Bergsiö. of the finest landscapes the eye ever beheld; Cultivated combining all the charms of agriculture with the Appear. most majestic features of uncultivated nature;sloping hop-grounds, rich inclosures, farms, cottages, cattle, amidst the grandeur and magnificence of lakes and mountains; groves, and garniture of fields." the pomp of We had not before a vast ance of Helsingland. Lake. proceeded far upon our route, prospect of the Dellen lay before us. This Dellen beautiful lake is divided into two parts, north and south; called, respectively, Norra Dellen, and Södra Dellen, which are separated from each III. CHAP. other by a narrow tongue of land; both together forming a piece of water fourteen English miles in length, and almost the same number in breadth. Its shores are thick set with farmhouses and elegant churches, backed by mountains covered with forests from their bases to their summits: its surface is studded with beautiful islets, adorned with rich woods of weepingbirch, mountain-ash, alder, and fir trees. In this stage we passed an iron-foundry, where the workmen were employed in manufacturing bar-iron, and spike-nails for ships. All the ore was from Utoen. Arriving at Afholm, distant about twenty-two English miles from Bergsiö, we saw two coffins standing before the door of the post-house; one of which had been prepared for the late master of the inn, whose death was occasioned by the yellow jaundice, which is here called the foreign fever. Our next stage was along the borders of the DELLEN, passing round its western shore to Delsbo. The church makes a fine object, in the approach to it from the opposite side of the lake. Delsbo. We have before mentioned the occasional excess of Swedish hospitality; but an adventure befell us at this place, which, as it may shew to what a vicious extent this virtue is sometimes carried, it becomes our duty to relate. About III. Singular half a Swedish mile before we arrived at Delsbo, CHAP. we were surprised by the appearance of several Gentlemen assembled in the road, near a car- Adventure. riage belonging to one of the party; which, almost overturned, was standing in a ditch; prevented only from falling by leaning against the bank. They were evidently much heated, and apparently with liquor; some being on horseback, and others on foot. One of them, a coarse, corpulent, gruff-looking figure, having his neck and breast bare, was armed with a brace of pistols, which stuck out of his waistcoatpockets: he rode up to us, and stopped our waggon. This event took place in the midst of a thick forest: and never was there a groupe better fitted to pass for a ferocious banditti, than the party which now collected round us, of whom this personage appeared to be the chief. Several voices demanded who we were, and whither we were going. Meeting with no answer to these interrogations, they insisted, in a boisterous manner, upon our joining their party, and going with the n. We refused, and drove on; the wheels of our waggon nearly crushing the feet of one of them, who held fast, and continued frequently and imperiously to cry "halt!" Presently we left them in the rear; but a sallowfaced man, well mounted, with long bushy hair, CHAP. and a patch on his face, galloped after us, passed III. our waggon, and, coming up with a cart in which sat our Swedish interpreter, ordered him to halt; and pointing to us, demanded "Who are they?" "English Gentlemen, Sir!" was the reply. "Sa micka besser!" said the stranger, loud enough for us to hear his words distinctly; when he galloped back, and again passed us, to join his party. In a few minutes, the whole gang came in full speed after us, and accompanied us to the post-house at Delsbo ; when, to our dismay, we heard them prohibit the postmaster from putting horses to our carriage. As soon as we alighted, they followed us into a room and shutting the door, fastened it, to prevent our retreating. Upon our requiring an explanation of this strange conduct, they all joined in requesting that we would go with them; entreating, in the most earnest manner, that we would not pass through their country without partaking of their hospitality, and promising to make a great rejoicing as soon as we should arrive at their homes. Weary with repeated refusals, and remonstrating upon this unexampled treatment, we made for the door; when, joining hands, they surrounded us, yelling a song, and dancing around us. We broke from them, however, and succeeded in forcing the door, and in |