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The Halling and the Polsk, antiert Greek Dances, as existing in Norway.

CHAP. IV.

FROM MALMAGEN, UPON THE NORWEGIAN

ALPS, TO TRÖNYEM. Visit to the Laplanders- Further Observations respecting

this People-Their mode of killing Rein-deer-Passage of the Norwegian AlpsValedictory Retrospect of the North of Sweden-Descent from the Heights-Source of the Glommen River Fish called Röe -Species of Ptarmigan-Difficulty of the Route-Brakken-Change observable in the Habits of the NativesOresund Lake -Beckåås - Storvartz-Arrival at Röråås - News of our former Companions-Library of a Learned Englishman-Visit to the Copper-Mines-Description of the

Ore,

Ore, its Matrix, and Mineral Associations- Extraordinary Direction of the Veins-State of the Works-Moile of blasting the Ore-Appointed Labour of the Miners -Profits arising from them --Produce of the Four principal Smelting-houses - Situation of Röråås-Effect of Sulphureous ExhalationsExportation of the Metal -State of Medicine-National DancesPrice of Commodities -- Deparlure from Röråås — Manners of the People, as opposed to the Swedes-Hoff-Soknæs-Farms above the Clouds - Resemblance to English Customs Description of the Interior of a Farm-house-Melhuus -Oust-Appearance of the Country towards Trönyem Prospect of the City-Arrival at Trönyem-Reception of Strangers - Manners of the Inhabitants National Song of the Norwegians Clubs Population and Agriculture-Funds for Public Institutions-House of In, dustry- Plantations-Climate-Erports-Rapidity of

Vegetation-Commerce with Ireland. As soon as it was dawn, we were all stirring, char. and glad to hail the first beams of the sun. Upon a mountain, opposite the hovel in which we slept, was an encampment of Laplanders, with Visit to the above a thousand rein-deer ; and we resolved to dersos

Laplanmake our breakfast with them. They had fixed their camp literally in the clouds, in a most etherial situation between the two kingdoms. Our guides told us, that they remain upon

this mountain during all seasons, selling tobacco, which they bring from Norway to the peasants : in fact, they are the herdsmen of all the neigh

IV.

this spot.

CHAP. bouring country; many of their rein-deer, as of

the other cattle under their care, belonging to
the inhabitants of the surrounding district, both
Swedes and Norwegians. They came towards us,
with their usual characteristic countenance and
manner; all dwarfs, with long, lank, black hair,
braided in straight locks, on either side, behind
the head; and with blear eyes, rheumy and sore;
the pupil of each eye distorted inwards toward
the bridge of the nose, and their hands held up
to their foreheads to cast a shade over their eyes,
the light being painful to them upon coming
from their tents. A whole colony, consisting of
several families, had settled upon
They had just finished their winter tents, which,
having a conical form, differ only from their
summer habitations in being covered with turf
instead of cloth. Upon this green turf many
Alpine plants were yet growing, as if left there
to adorn their little dwellings. The height of
each tent would allow nobody but a Laplander to
stand upright. Several of the men and women
allowed us to measure their height: the average
stature of the former was four feet; that of the
latter did not exceed three and a half. Their
little ferret eyes, and want of eyebrows, added
to their high cheek-bones, gave them, as usual,
a Javanese look; that is to say, such a resem-

blance to the people of Japan, as might be CHAP. deemed a strong family likeness. The Swedes, inhabiting the same country, are quite a different race; with large features, gigantic limbs, and stature. The Laplander is truly a pigmy: his further voice, feeble and effeminate, accords with the soft- tions reness of his language. When taken from his tent, this People.

specting he rolls his weak eyes about, like a bird or beast of darkness suddenly exposed to the sun. The Lapps are said to be more cunning than the Swedes, who consider them as a crafty set of knaves; just as the Gipsies are regarded everywhere. Perhaps their cunning may be principally due to the necessity they are under of being constantly upon their guard, lest they be maltreated; the people considering them as an inferior order of beings in the creation, and thinking it lawful to make them the objects of contempt and ridicule, using their very name, Lapp, as a term of degradation. We have seen a Lapp, when surrounded by Swedes, deny himself to be a Laplander, as if ashamed and fearful

But they live better than the Swedish peasantry; and in their dealings demand specie, refusing the paper-currency of the country whenever it is offered. It is, nevertheless, impossible for human beings to wear an aspect more hideous than some of their old women;

of scorn.

IV.

CHAP. and hence it is that the credulous fear them,

and suppose them gifted with the powers of witchcraft. A person unaccustomed to their appearance, meeting one of these creatures suddenly in the midst of a forest, would, as we have said before, start from the revolting spectacle: the diminutive stature, the unusual tone of voice, the extraordinary dress, the leering unsightly eyes, the wide mouth, nasty hair, and sallow shrivelled skin, “ the vellum of the pedigree they claim,” all appear, at first sight, out of the order of Nature, and dispose a stranger to turn out of their way. The men whom we saw upon this mountain, notwithstanding the keenness of the morning air (Fahrenheit's thermometer then being at 45°), made their appearance with their necks and bosoms bare, exposed to the chilling blast. Upon the dwarf birch-trees round their tents, the limbs and carcasses of rein-deer were drying in the wind. These articles of food are offered for sale to the peasants, together with the fermented milk of the same animals, contained in the paunches of rein-deer, and hung up with the flesh. Sour-milk thus prepared may be kept all the winter: it is in great request among the inhabitants, who buy it of the Lapps. Many of the Lapp women crowded round us, as soon as we arrived : their necks

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