V.

CHAP. but finally to excommunicate him from the church. Upon this he left Trönijem, and returned to his native mountains, where he joined with a party of the wild Finns of the country, resuming at once all the habits of his original state and at this time he was roaming the savage mountains and deserts of Finmark.

Military Force of the Government.

There are two regiments of infantry in the government of Trönijem, and one of cavalry, each consisting of eighteen companies of one hundred and twenty men. These are a part of the national army, and are embodied and exercised for a certain number of days every year. Two companies of the regiments of infantry are kept constantly embodied; and the men who form these companies are regularly enlisted; but no person is obliged to serve in them, who is unwilling to do so: it is even unlawful to enlist into them the sons of farmers. The regiment of cavalry has no part of it constantly embodied: but both the men and horses are said to be nearly as well disciplined as the most regular troops. The men have a constant allowance for maintaining their horses, which is however trifling; not more than fifty dollars a year. Besides these three regiments, there is a smaller regiment of chasseurs, consisting of about a thousand; this is always stationary at Trönijem.

There is also another corps, which may be considered among the greatest curiosities in the country; namely, the regiment of Shiders or Skaters; consisting of six hundred men, half of which are stationed in the north, and half in the south of Norway. These men have acquired the art of performing military evolutions in the Lapland skates. We saw their Colonel: he was upwards of fifty years of age; but he conducted himself in these skates with all the surprising dexterity of the youngest soldier in his regiment. He explained to us the manner of using them. The skates themselves are not of equal length in every pair of them, one is longer than the other. The long skate, which is generally six or seven, and sometimes eight feet long, is always worn on the left leg; and upon this leg the skater chiefly rests. The sort skate, which is generally one or two feet shorter than the other, is worn upon the right leg, and serves principally for pushing the other forwards, and directing it. For this purpose, the short skate is covered with rein-deer skin; the hair of which lies smooth while the shater is progressive, but bristles up, and becomes rough, upon any retrograde motion, and therefore serves as a hold upon the snow. The bottom of the long shate is of smooth wood, having a groove hollowed

CHAP.

V.

CHAP. within the surface, to make it lighter, and to

V.

Manners

of the In

assist the spring of the skater, who sometimes, in going very rapidly down hill, must take great leaps over the rocky and rough ground that may be above the snow. A leap of fifteen yards is sometimes taken, in this manner. A stick flattened at one end, to prevent its sinking in the snow, is always held by the skater in his hands, as a director; and his position in going down hill is always with his knees very much bent, his body leaning forwards, and bearing with his two hands upon the stick on the left side; dragging it after him, and at the same time supporting himself by it'. In this manner they descend the steep hills of Norway, with a velocity, as we were often assured, swifter than any bird can fly. The regiment of Skiders is regularly exercised in the use of these skates, every year.'

A tolerable notion of the manners of a people habitants. may be formed by mixing with them at their meals. We were every day in company with some of the principal families resident in the place; and we everywhere observed the same traits of antient hospitality, softened by the

(1) See a correct Portrait of one of the Laplanders using these skates. Schefferi Lapponia, cap. 20. p. 248. Francof. 1673.

most engaging manners. The society of Trö-
nijem has been considered as more polished than
that of any other town in Norway: we did not
consider it as superior in this respect to Chris-
tiania, but it is certainly not inferior. Some
trifling singularities, as national characteristics,
may be noticed; serving to cast an air of novelty
over the good fare a traveller is sure to meet
with. The people of Trönijem place themselves
without etiquette at table: every one sits as he
chooses. They continue long, at their meals;
but conversation is brisk among them; and as
they do not remain at table afterwards, the
party breaks up sooner than in England: and
the constant presence of females renders their
social meetings cheerful and agreeable. Indeed,
at all of them, the Norwegian dames perform
their parts extremely well, and generally take
the lead in conversation, in a manner which is
highly pleasing to all the company. Their
dinners are of a very substantial nature, although
not served without elegance: the tables may be
literally said to "
groan with the weight of the
feast;" like what it used to be in old times in
England. Even at their suppers, three or four
courses of soup, fowls, ham, fish, &c. &c. follow
one another; after which the stranger beholds,
to his astonishment, a quarter of a calf brought

V.

CHAP. in, by way of a bonne bouche, at the last. At the end of their dinners, perhaps by some sign from the mistress of the house, the company all bow to her, drink her health, and then, suddenly rising, push their chairs, with a very great noise, to the sides of the room. Then they stand silent for a short time, as if they were saying a grace: after which, bowing to the master of the house, and to each other, they shake hands with their host, and kiss the hand of their hostess, when the ladies are assisted out of the room by the arms of the gentlemen. We had observed this ceremony, of rising and moving the chairs, before in Denmark; but the whole process here was more intense, and the noise might call to mind the rising of the great Council in Milton.' As soon as they have all retired together, coffee is served; during which some gentlemen smoke tobacco, for a few minutes, in an adjoining room. After coffee, tea is brought in: then the cardtables are set out, at which punch is served; and afterwards a most solid supper is announced, as before described. The house of General Von Krog, the Commandant, was one of those at which we were thus hospitably entertained. Although built of wood, it was the most magnificent palace in all Scandinavia: it contained a theatre, and a most stately suite of apartments.