TRÖNŸEM TO CHRISTIANIA.

Departure from Trönyem-Mild Temperature of the Climate-Guuldal-Scenery between Sognæs and HoffElevation of the Mountains-Gammel Orse-Upland Farms-Sundset-Sno-Ripa-Passage of Dovrefield— Rüsen-Moor Game-Drivstuen-Alpine PlantsKongsvold-Grotesque Habits of the Natives-Boundary between the Governments of Trönjem and AggerhuusSneehättan-Jerkin-Fogstuen-Harebacken-Descent

from Dovrefield-Geological Phænomena - TofteMarriage Customs-Perilous Assault-Louven RiverFormoe-English Customs-Guldbrandsdale-Cataract

and

・and Bridge-Pass of Kringelen-Fatal Expedition of Colonel Sinclair-Cause of his disastrous march-History of the Inscription-Fate of the Prisoners-Breiden

Peculiar Character of a Norwegian Landscape— Viig-Moen-Beauty of the Forests-Oden-TumuliElstad-Lake Miösen-Remarkable Chasm and BridgeLosnes-Stav-Moshuus-Economy of the NativesDeviation from the King's Road-Sunde-Torsted— Louven River-Difficulties of the Route-Ronne-Interior of a Norwegian Inn-Svennes-Extraordinary Adventure-Cow-house-Glass Manufactory-Svee-Appearance of the Harvest-Views of the Miösen LakeHund-Brelie - Cataract-Lunden- Glass-works of Garsjoe-Bandelie-Junction with the King's RoadRoholt-Iron Foundry-Dragvold-Moe-SchesmoeStrange Observance of the Sabbath - Romsaas - Execrable State of the Roads near the Capital-Arrival at CHRISTIANIA.

VI.

Departure from Tri

UPON the third of October, we took leave of CHAP. our friends, and left Trönijem with much regret. Mr. Horneman and Mr. Nelson remained with us to the last moment before we quitted the town. nijem. It was one of the finest days ever seen. As we ascended the Mountain Steenberg, which rises to the west of the city, loitering and looking back upon the delightful scene afforded by the Bay, the buildings, and the mountains, every thing wore a cheerful aspect. We felt a wish that we might never lose the impression made upon

VI.

CHAP. us by our last view of this Baia of the North; for if there be a spot which, next to his own country, an Englishman might choose for his residence, it is Trönÿjem: and while every grateful recollection of the kindness and hospitality of its inhabitants, and of those sentiments which had awakened sympathies that are the boast of Britons, remained fresh within our memory, we felt and acknowledged that Trönÿem had more of home in it than any other place in Europe, out of our own island. We had now parted with our little Swedish waggon, as it had no covering; and expecting rain with the autumnal season, had purchased a little low phaëton with a head to it, which was recommended to us as the best kind of vehicle for travelling in Norway. WalkMild Tem- ing by the side of it, in our way up the Steenberg, we found the heat almost oppressive. Several plants were still in flower: we collected many specimens of the Field Gentian (Gentiana campestris), that beautiful ornament of the alpinepastures its blossoms, clustering among the short grass, studded all the surface of the mountain: the whole plant, scarcely an inch in height, seemed to consist of little else than the petals of its flowers, which in size and luxuriance were out of all proportion to its diminutive leaves and branches.

perature of

the Cli

mate.

VI.

We returned by our former route, as far as CHAP. Sognas; where the roads to Trönÿjem, from Röråås and Christiania, meet. In the course of this day's journey, as we descended from Oust towards Melhuus, we saw an amazing prospect of the Guuldal, a valley surrounded by mountains, excepting upon its western side, where an inlet of the sea appears, into which the Guul river discharges itself. This valley is highly cultivated'. The rocks have very singular shapes: they consist, for the most part, of clay-slate and trap, in which a number of vertical fissures occasion a prismatic appearance resembling basalt; but the remarkable tendency of the former to a quadrangular fracture, with tarnished

(1) “ The Guuldal is a beautiful valley: it is long and broad, delightfully environed, and well-peopled. The views down the valley, over numerous and considerable hamlets and churches, with the broad and glittering stream in the middle, are altogether enchanting. Fertility and cultivation smile upon us from every hill. The whole antiquity of the nation is crowded together in this valley; it is the cradle of the land. Here Norr came first over from Sweden. Here dwelt the mighty Hakon Yarl. In this valley he was found out, and conquered, by the valiant, noble, and wise adventurer, Oluf Tryggvason. Here many of the Heroes of the country dwelt in their Courts: and those kings who bloodily contested the dominion of the land, never imagined they had made any considerable progress in it, till they had conquered Drontheim and its valleys. Now we everywhere see healthy boors; and no Hakon Yarl, no Linar Thambaskielver, no Duke Skule. Their repose has sometimes been disturbed by the tempests of the Swedish wars; but the inhabitants continue to advance, in an easy yet perceptible progress, in all the arts of peace, towards their higher destiny."—Von Buch's Travels, p. 104. Lond. 1813. VOL. X.

U

CHAP. surfaces, discoloured by the oxide of iron, as if

VI.

decomposed, and somewhat splintery, serve to distinguish it in some degree from basalt, however nearly allied the subtances may be as to their chemical constituents'. From Melhuus to Leir, Foss, and Sognæs, the road mæanders through close surrounding precipices, amidst bold and abrupt mountains, embosoming the waters of the Guul. Between Melhuus and Leir, we were delighted with the beauties of the country; and especially with the elegance of a bridge constructed of the trunks of firtrees, of one arch; of which there are many in Norway, of surprising magnitude and boldness of design, cast across the most rapid cataracts. There is nothing in all Switzerland to surpass the Sognes and grandeur of the prospects between Sognæs and Hoff: and if, in stating this circumstance, it should appear but as a repetition of former observations, it is because this kind of scenery, in the general survey of the globe, is by no means

Scenery

between

Hoff.

(1) The description given by Von Buch of the rocks in the Guuldał makes the whole formation to consist of clay-slate and grey-wacke (see Travels, p. 106. Lond. 1813); but he is unable to ascertain the precise nature of the rocks between the Guuldal and Trönÿem. “Are we to consider it," says he, "as mica-slate, or as clay-slate? On the Steenberg, towards Drontheim, downwards, it appears, at first sight, to resemble clay-slate." To our eyes, the appearance was rather that of trap; and perhaps this may explain the ambiguity.

(2) See the Vignette to this Chapter.