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CHAP. of the inhabitants an unhealthy appearance :

IX.

Leerhol.

Skamnäs.

they found the sorrel-bread, upon the whole, more salutary. The general effect of eating firbread is, to produce a yellow, pale, and unhealthy countenance. In every thing, the appearance of the people was strangely contrasted with that of the Norwegians. The latter wear red caps. The Swedes, in their broadbrimmed hats, without any buttons upon their black coats, looked like so many Quakers in mourning.

Presently after leaving Strand, we had a fine view of a lake which discharges its waters into Hogvalla. the Wener. We passed Hogvalla, Leerhol, and Skamnäs. In the forests were juniper-trees, growing to a very great size. We were ferried over to Skamnäs; the passage being nearly halfa-mile wide. The view of the lake from the post-house here was very fine. The country Improved was more open and cultivated in going to Hogboda and Prestbol; interspersed with small lakes, the shores of which were ornamented with fir, birch, and alder. Two sorts of alder are very common in Sweden, as well as in Norway; growing often in very dry ground. It was dark before we arrived at Prestbol. We found here another miserable inn.

appearance

of the land.

The next morning, November the second, we

[graphic]

CHAP.

IX.

descended into plains which reminded us of Norfolk and Suffolk. The appearance of the country was greatly improved. We changed horses at Ilberg; and reached CARLSTAD, the Carlstad. capital of Wermeland,, upon the Wener Sea', by eleven o'clock in the forenoon. The view in the approach to this city is very pleasing. We entered it by a bridge. The houses are covered with turf, as in all the towns leading from Wenersborg to Stockholm, on the southern side of the lake. The inn here was very dirty; yet Carlstad is a much finer town than Wenersborg: the streets are broad and long, and contain many good houses; and a general appearance of activity and business seems to denote a thriving

(1) See the Map in the preceding Volume.

Equitum lustrationibus nundinisque festo D. Pauli et Lucia celebris, quæ etiamnum a Gothenburgensibus aliisque vicinis magno cum emolumento frequentantur.”—Descriptio Sueciæ, tom. I. p. 442. Lugd. Bat. 1706.

(2) It is, in fact, built upon an island. (See the Map.) "The river Clara," says Thomson, in his account of this place, "runs through this province, and falls into the Lake Vener. It is a large river, but, like the Dal, runs so slowly, that it has more the appearance of a lake than a river. Some miles before it falls into the Vener, it divides into two branches, enclosing the Island of Tingwalla. At the northern extremity of this island stands the town of Carlstad; so called because it was built by Charles IX. This town is a Bishop's See. Like the other Swedish towns, it is built of wood. The streets are broad and straight, and the number of inhabitants about 1500. It carries on a commerce of wood and iron across the Lake Vener."-Thomson's Trav. in Sweden, ch. xx. p. 373. Lond. 1813.

CHAP

IX.

Exports and Imports.

place. The Episcopal Palace is built of wood, as are all the other houses. The Governor of the province also resides here. Both Carlstad and Philipstad were built by Charles the Ninth ; the first being called after his own name, and the last after the name of his son Philip. The principal productions of the mines and forests of Wermeland are here shipped for Gothenburg; and the exportation of bar-iron and timber may be considered as the staple commerce of Carlstad. The importations consist of provisions and other necessaries. Dirty inns are often the dearest and this we found to be the case here. Every thing was charged at most exorbitant prices but this is not a cheap place for any thing beyond common necessaries. Loaf-sugar sold in the shops as high as a rix-dollar the pound, being all of it imported from England'. Population. The accounts given to us of the population of Carlstad were so discordant, that we could place no reliance upon them; some estimating it at 3000, and others at 1400: we were disposed to credit the last, rather than the first; and this number nearly coincides with the statement

(1) See page 230 of the preceding Volume, for an account of a manufactory for refining sugar at Gefle, belonging to Mr. Hennis; being the first of the kind established in Sweden.

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