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the crops of rye were everywhere excellent; CHAP. , those of barley bad; some of the latter hardly worth reaping. Throughout the whole of this district, the soil was in fine order; the ground being well cleared, and kept remarkably clean. The Finland farmers are particularly neat in husbandry. Wild currant-trees were in great abundance upon this road. We dined at Hauke- Hauketodas, upon fresh salmon, and cloudberries and cream. Leaving this place, we proceeded to Jukuri, where we changed horses. Here the Jukuri. road became bad, a very unusual thing: it had been newly made, and consisted of deep sand. The country, unlike that of the western side of the Gulph, lies open to view. The town of Uleå, or Uleåborg, makes a conspicuous figure, in its approach. It has two churches, as have also almost all the other towns in this country; one for the people of the town, the other for the peasants. During divine service, they never mingle together; the peasants rather choosing to supply the expense requisite to maintain a church and minister of their own. We crossed a ferry to Uleå ; being conducted, round a point of land, to the Custom-house, which is opposite the town. The officer had retired to rest, and did not choose to be disturbed by the usual examination of the luggage. The approach by
water to Uleå is picturesque; but it was renwdered more highly so, this evening, by the rising
of the moon, in all her brightness, from behind the town. In this prospect, the warehouses o the merchants constituted a principal feature, and not the most pleasing part of it. They resemble so many large deal-boxes by the waterside, similar to what we saw at Umeå. Towards the left, appeared the Church, the Town-hall, and the greater part of the dwelling-houses. The streets of Uleå are of great length, and some of them are paved. We drove into the inn-yard, at a considerable distance from the water-side; and were conducted into a small, but clean and comfortable apartment'.
(1) The same in which Acerbi met with the singular adventure, upon the night of his arrival at Uleåborg, which he has related in his Travels, Vol. I. p. 254. Lond. 1802.- The Reader may also consult Acerbi's work for soine curious observations on the climate, &c. of Uleåborg.
Signor Acerbi and his Party-Interview with that Tra
veller — Colonel Skiöldebrand — National Music of Finland-North Cape - Baron Silferhielm — Generous behaviour of a Merchant-Trade of Uleå - Entertainmert given by Baron Silferhielm- Animal Magnetism
Departure from Uleåborg-Plants— Mode of gibbetting Criminals-Brahestad—Origin of the Court Uniform of Sweden-Appearance of the Country--Finland Fishermen-Description of Ostero-Bothnie—Beginning of the Rainy Season-Gamla Carleby-State of LiteratureNy Carleby-Wasa-Musical Instrument called Hummer-Passage of the Quarken—Isle of Björkö-Quay of the Natives-Village of Björkö--Inhabitants—their contempt of wealth-Male and Female Peasants Population—Vegetable Productions—Voyage to Umeå --Antient Finnish Rhune-Popular Swedish Air-its versification imitated in an-English Ode.
CHAP. We had scarcely dismounted our baggage,
before we heard that Signor Acerbi, and the Signor Acerbi, and companions of his journey to the North Cape,
were in the town: and almost in the same instant, Dr. Deutsch, of Torneå, entered our apartment, with an invitation to breakfast with the party on the following morning. Our curiosity to meet Acerbi was very great: we had been unintentionally in pursuit of him, from the time of our arrival in Sweden; having often arrived in places which he had recently quitted, without seeing him. The Reader will also recollect that he had arrived at Enontekis the day after we left it. Dr. Deutsch has been before mentioned, as the physician who attended the author upon the eve of his expedition to the source of the
Muonio': he had followed Acerbi from Torneå, CHAP. attracted by his intelligent conversation and engaging manners; and, above all, by his love of music. Such was the extent of Acerbi's skill in music, that he could, at sight, adapt any number of variations to the most complicate pieces of composition; could perform upon a number of different instruments; and, by composing parts for several performers, he gratified the inhabitants of Uleåborg by a concert; the first they had ever heard in their lives : indeed, before his arrival, they had no other idea of an accompaniment, than that of several persons playing in unison: even a duet, consisting of two performers playing different notes, was unknown. Dr. Deutsch remained with us a part of the evening, speaking with great rapture of Acerbi's genius, of his enterprising spirit, inquisitive mind, quickness of apprehension, and the zeal for liberty by which he was characterized. Respecting the traits in wbich this last part of the character of an otherwise amiable man was displayed, we shall be silent: the desolating torrent of democracy, which was let loose upon the nations by the French Revolution, has found its level: and if an inhabitant of the North of Italy,
(1) See Chap. IX. of the preceding Volume.