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with the substruction is visible; the spectator standing some feet below the intended level. Near it is rubbish of a church. We employed an old Albanian to watch nightly on our scaffold, to prevent the ropes from being pilfered.

In the side of the rock of the Muséum, next to the Ilissus, are the sepulchres, which we noted in our way from the Piræus. Some time after Solon, it was enacted at Athens, that no sepulchre should have more labour bestowed on it, than could be performed by ten men in three days; that the roof should be plain; and that no Hermæ or Mercurial statues should be allowed. These perhaps are of a remoter antiquity, and were designed for no vulgar tenants; but, though mansions of the illustrious dead, they have long since been stripped of their marble facings and ornaments, and are now open, and defiled; serving chiefly to shelter cattle from the sun.

We now enter the valley at the foot of the hill of the acropolis, in which is a track leading between Pnyx and the Areopagus, toward the temple of Theseus. This region. was called Cole, or the hollow. On the left hand is a gap in the mountain, where, it is believed, was the Melitensian gate; and within is a sepulchre or two in the rock. Going on, other sepulchres hewn in the side of the mountain, like those first mentioned, occur; and here again we may regret that no friendly inscription informs us of their respective owners; but these were named the Cimonian sepulchres. Herodotus relates, that the sepulchre of Cimon, father of Miltiades, was fronting the acropolis, beyond the way called through Cale; and that near him were interred his mares, which had obtained for him three victories at Olympia. Cimon, son of Miltiades, died in Cyprus, and Thucydides the historian was

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slain in Thrace; but the relics of each were transported to the burying-place of their family. The sepulchre of Thucydides, by that of Elphinice, the sister of Cimon, in Cole, not far from the Melitensian gate, and in it was a stela or column inscribed " Thucydides, son of Olorus, of Alimus." There also was shewn a tomb of Herodotus.

The ascent to the brow is farther on the left hand, beyond Pnyx; and by the track are small channels, already mentioned, cut in the rock, perhaps to receive libations. From that eminence, on which the Persians, and before them the Amazons, encamped near the Areopagus, the Venetians battered the acropolis with four mortars and six pieces of canin 1687, when the roof of the Parthenon was destroyed. This event was remembered by a little old man living at Athens, who conducted me to a ruined windmill above Pnyx, as standing on or near the spot, from which the bomb was thrown.

non,

CHAP. XVIII.

Of the gate called Dipylon-Abstract of Pausanias-The Pompeium, &c.--Statues of Jupiter and Hadrian-Of Harmodius and Aristogiton-Paintings in Pacile-The region called Melit-The Agora-The altar of Pity.

WE should proceed next to the antiquities within the present town, but these have been published, with accuracy and fidelity, by two of our own countrymen, one of whom was my companion in this expedition. To their work I refer the curious reader; and, to complete our view of this illustrious city, shall now divest Pausanias of the digressions,

which obscure his method, and follow him, as it were unembarrassed, in his survey; subjoining some farther account of a few of the places, and such remarks on their situation, as may contribute to enlarge our knowledge of the general topography of ancient Athens. But first we shall treat of the gate Dipylon.

Dipylon was the gate at which Sylla entered from the Piræus, and was sometimes called the Piraan Gate. It led toward Thria and Eleusis, and was likewise called the Thrasian and the Sacred Gate. A region within, and a suburb without it, being named the Ceramicus, it was also called the Gate of the Ceramicus. Being placed, as it were, in the mouth of the city, it was larger and wider than the other gates, and had broad avenues to it. One was from the agora or market-place, a portion of the inner Ceramicus; which was on the side of the acropolis next Mount Hymettus. At this the citizens could march out in battle-array, passing, it should seem, through Cole. The principal slaughter made by Sylla was about the agora, in the Ceramicus; and when the citadel was reduced, he inclosed there and decimated the Athenians.

Pausanias, on his arrival in the city from the Piræus, notes first an edifice called the Pompeium, and a temple of Ceres near it; and then the stoas or porticoes, adorned with brass statues, extending from the gate, which was Dipylon, into the Ceramicus. He begins with the stoa named the Mercuries, which had temples of the gods; the gymnasium of Mercury; the house of Polyton, then sacred to Bacchus ; and, after it, a building with statues. This brings him into the Ceramicus. He then returns to the stoa on the right, which had statues, and was called the Royal, because there was the tribunal of the archon styled the King. The ascent of the Areopagus

being long and wearisome to old men, the venerable senate sometimes met in this portico. There stood Jupiter Eleutherius, or the Deliverer, and the emperor Hadrian. The stoa of Jupiter was behind. This he describes next; with the temple of Apollo Patrous, which was near; the Metróum or temple of Cybele; the senate-house of the five hundred; the Tholus, and higher up a range of statues, among which were the ten heroes styled the Eponymi ; and Attalus, Ptolemy and Hadrian, from whom likewise tribes were named; and after these, besides others, Lycurgus and Demosthenes. Near this statue was a temple of Mars, probably at the Areopagus; and then, not far off, the statues of Harmodius and Aristogiton; then the statues before the entrance of the Odéum; then the Odéum; the fountain Enneacrunus; the Eleusinium beyond it; and, more remote, the temple of Diana Euclea in Agræ. The author returns into the city, and begins again, above the Ceramicus and royal portico, with the Hephæstéum or temple of Vulcan and Minerva, by which was a temple of Venus Urania; then going toward the portico called Pœcile, was the Hermes Agoræus, or Mercury of the Agora; and near it a gate,* on which was a trophy for a victory obtained by the Athenian cavalry from a general of Cassander. In the agora was an altar of Pity. This abstract comprises a portion of the old city by Dipylon, the region in the front of the acropolis, and the plain on the side next Hymettus, or the Ceramicus within the city, of which the agora was part; and extends into the surburb, beyond the Ilissus.

* By the gate, near the Mercury of the Agora, wine was sold, Att. Lect. p. 1884. That perhaps is the gate mentioned by Plutarch. τους δε οικείους θαπσαι τα οςτα άμα λονευσι προ των Ιππαδων πυλων. it. Hyperide. βουλευτηριον τεχνιτών ᾠκοδόμηται παρα τας του Κεραμεικου πυλας ου πόρρω των Ίππεων. Philostrat. p. 577.

The Pompeium was a building, in which all the necessaries for the solemn festivals were prepared, and the vessels of gold and silver were kept, to be delivered to the bearers appointed at the Panathenæan and other grand processions. The mention of this place, of Polytion, and of the Mercuries, will remind the classical reader of the enormities of Alcibiades. He made use of the consecrated plate at his table, and refused to restore it; he imitated the mysteries of Eleusis in the house of Polytion, wearing a stole and personating the hierophant or chief priest; and in the night defaced all the Mercuries, except one. In the Tholus, which was a round building, sometimes called Scias, were small images of silver, and there the magistrates, styled prytanes, sacrificed and feasted.

The portico of Jupiter Eleutherius and the Royal were near to each other. The statue of Jupiter Eleutherius was erected on the defeat of the Medes. The inscription gave him likewise the title of Saviour. Hadrian, who was ranked with him, had been, as Pausanias adds, a great benefactor to other cities of the empire, but above all to Athens. A pedestal now remains, as we supposed, in its place, at some distance from the temple of Theseus, in the way to the Piræus, almost buried in earth. After digging about it, we discovered the inscription, "To the Saviour and founder the emperor Hadrian Olympius."

The statues of Harmodius and Aristogiton were of brass, and very ancient. They had been carried away into Persia by Xerxes, and were restored to the Athenians by Alexander, after Darius was conquered. They were near five hundred years old, when it was decreed that Brutus and Cassius, the murderers of Cæsar, should be placed next them. Arrian,

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