the rally a solemn, solitary being; with few visible enjoyments, except his pipe and coffee. The former is his constant companion. It is his solace on the sofa; and, when squatting on his hams, as he is sometimes seen, in the shade by the door of his house; or in a group, looking on, while the horses, which are staked down with a rope, feed in the season on green corn. When he is walking or riding, it is carried in his hand, or by an attendant. The tube is of wood perforated, commonly long and pliant, and sometimes hung with small silver crescents and chains, with a mouth-piece of amber. The bole is earthen, and a bit of aloe-wood put into it, while he is smoking, augments his pleasure, yielding a grateful perfume. A silken embroidered bag is usually tucked in at his sash, by his side, and contains tobacco. His horse, his arms, and harám are the other chief objects of his attention. He is grave, sententious, and steady; but fond of narrations, and not difficult to be overcome by a story. us. The Turks, observing that we did not use the sign of the cross, and being informed that we disapproved of the worshipping of pictures or images, conceived a favourable opinion of Their abhorrence of hog-flesh is unfeigned, and we derived some popularity from a report, which we did not contradict, that we held it in equal detestation. Several of them frequented our table. The principal Turks came all to our house at night, while it was Ramazan, or Lent, when they fast in the day-time; and were entertained by us with sweet-meats, pipes, coffee, and sherbet much to their satisfaction, though distressed by our chairs; some trying to collect their legs under them on the seats, and some squatting down by the sides. When we visited them, we were received with cordiality, and treated with distinction. Sweet gums were burned in the middle of the room, to scent the air; or scattered on coals before us, while sitting on the sofa, to perfume our mustaches and garments; and, at the door, on our departure, we were sprinkled with rose-water. The vaiwode at certain seasons sent his musicians to play in our court. The Greeks were not less civil, and at Easter we had the company of the archons in a body. Several of them also eat often with us ; and we had daily presents of flowers, sometimes perfumed, of pomegranates, oranges and lemons fresh gathered, pastry, and other like articles. The Turks have few public games or sports. We were present at a foot race, and at a wrestling match, provided by a rich Turk, for the entertainment of his son and other boys, who were about to be circumcised. A train, headed by the vaiwode and principal men on horses richly caparisoned, attended the boys, who were all neatly dressed, their white turbans glittering with tinsel ornaments, to a place without the city, where carpets were spread for them on the ground, in the shade, and a multitude of spectators waited silent and respectful. The race was soon over, and the prizes were distributed; to the winner a sufficient quantity of cloth for an upper garment, to the next a live sheep, to the third a kid, to the fourth a huge water-melon. The company then removed to a level spot near the ruin of the temple of Jupiter Olympius, and formed a large circle. The wrestlers were naked, except a pair of close drawers, and were anointed all over with oil. Some Arabians and black slaves, who had obtained their freedom, and were settled at Athens, had a feast on the performance of the rite of circumcision. The women danced in a ring, with sticks in their hands, and turning, in pairs, clashed them over their heads, at intervals, singing wildly to the music. A couple then danced with castenets; and the other swarthy ladies, sitting cross-legged on a sofa, began smoking. Athens was anciently enlivened by the chorusses singing and dancing in the open air, in the front of the temples of the gods, and round their altars, at the festival of Bacchus and on other holidays. The Greeks are frequently seen engaged in the same exercise, generally in pairs, especially on the anniversaries of their saints, and often in the areas before their churches. Their common music is a large tabor and pipe, or a lyre and tympanum or timbrel. Some of their dances are undoubtedly of remote antiquity. One has been supposed* that which was called the crane, and was said to have been invented by Theseus, after his escape from the labyrinth of Crete. The peasants perform it yearly in the street of the French convent, at the conclusion of the vintage; joining hands, and preceding their mules and asses, which are laden with grapes in panniers, in a very curved and intricate figure; the leader waving a handkerchief, which has been imagined to denote the clew given by Ariadne. A grand circular dance, in which the Albanian women join, is exhibited on certain days near the temple of Theseus; the company holding hands and moving round the musicians, the leader footing and capering until he is tired, when another takes his place. They have also choral dances. I was present at a very laborious single dance of the mimic species, in a field near Sedicui in Asia Minor; a goat-herd assuming to a tune, all the postures and attitudes of which the human body seemed capable, with a rapidity hardly credible. Marriages are commonly announced by loud music at the Le Roy, p. 22. house of the bridegroom. A Turk or Greek neither sees nor speaks to the maiden beforehand, but for an account of her person and disposition relies on his female relations, who have opportunities of seeing her in their visits and at the bath. The Turk, when terms are adjusted with her family, ratifies the contract before the cadi or judge, and sends her presents. If he be rich, a band of musicians precedes a train of peasants, who carry each a sheep, lamb or kid, with the horns gilded, on their shoulders; and these are followed by servants, with covered flaskets on their heads, containing female ornaments, money, and the like, for her use; and by slaves to attend her. Years often intervene before he requires her to be brought to his home. The streets, through which she is to pass, are then left free; and she is conducted to his house, under a large canopy surrounded by a multitude of women, all wrapped in white, with their faces muffled. If a Turk finds a pair of papouches or slippers at the door of his harám, it is a sign that a stranger is within, and he modestly retires. That apartment is even a sanctuary for females flying from the officers of justice. A papas or priest reads a service at the Greek weddings, the two persons standing and holding each a wax-taper lighted. A ring and gilded wreath or crown is used; and, at the end of the ceremony, a little boy or girl, as previously agreed on, is led to the bride, and kisses her hand. She is then as it were enthroned in a chair, and the husband remains at a respectful distance, with his hands crossed, silent and looking at her; until the women enter and take her away, when the men carouse in a separate apartment. Her face and hands are grossly daubed over with paint; and one, which had her forehead and cheeks bedecked with leaf-gold. I saw, The Albanians convey the bride to the house of her husband in procession, on horseback, with a child astride behind her, a loose veil or canopy concealing her head and face, her fingers laden with silver rings, and her hands painted red and blue in streaks. Their dress is a red jacket handsomely embroidered, with a coloured turban. I was present at one of their entertainments, which consisted of a great variety of dishes, chiefly pastry, ranged under a long low arbour made with boughs; the company sitting on the ground. When the bride is to be removed to a place at a distance, some women dance before her to the end of the town. The wife of a Turk, who lived near us, dying, we were alarmed on a sudden with a terrible skriek of women, and with the loud expostulations of the husband. She was carried to the grave at day-break. The Greeks bury in their churches, on a bier. The bones, when room is wanting, are washed with wine in the presence of the nearest male relation, and then removed. I was at a funeral entertainment provided by one of the archons, whose daughter had been recently interred. The procession set out from his house, before sunrise, headed by a papas or priest and some deacons, with lighted candles; the women, who were left behind, screaming and howling. One man bore a large wax-taper, painted with flowers, and with the portrait of the deceased in her usual attire, and hung round with a handkerchief of her embroidering, in gathers. Two followed, carrying on their heads each a great dish of parboiled wheat; the surface, blanched almonds disposed in the figure of a dove, with gilding and a border of raisins and pomegranate-kernels. These, on our arrival at the church, were deposited over the body. The matins ended with a service appropriated to this ceremony, X |