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had from it an extensive view of the turbulent gulf beneath, and of the islands. We made a fire, and remained in it until morning. It then proved calm, and we re-embarked.
We coasted by the Scironian rocks, which are exceedingly high, rough, and dreadful. The way is by the edge of · perpendicular precipices, narrow, and in many places carried over the breaks, and supported underneath, apparently, in so slight a manner, that a spectator may reasonably shudder with horror at the idea of crossing. Wheler has mentioned it as the worst road, which he ever travelled. After much time consumed in scrambling up and down the precipices, he passed along the shore, under the mountain, and came to an ancient edifice three or four yards high and eight square, with several large planks of marble lying about it, some carved in basso relievo. This he supposes was the temple of Apollo.
We landed about noon in the district, called anciently Cromyonia, lying between the Scironian way, and the isthmus of Corinth. The valley was cultivated, and at some distance from the sea were olive-groves with a village named Canetta. Nearer the shore were many scattered stones with a carved fragment or two; vestiges of Cromyon. This town was one hundred and fifty stadia, or eighteen miles and three quarters from Corinth. It once belonged to Megara. There Pityocamptes, who infested the entrance of the isthmus, was educated ; and beyond, but near, was the scene of the exploit of Theseus. “ The pine,” says Pausanias, “ has grown until now by the sea-side.” There also was an altar of Melicertes. They related that a dolphin had transported his body to that spot; that it was found by Sisyphus, king of Corinth; and that he interred it on the isthmus.
Some green samphire, which we gathered on the Scironian rocks, made part of our repast at noon, after which we slept in the shade. We embarked again, and coasted a flat shore, and in the evening landed about half a mile from a rivulet, running into the sea with a shallow and lively current. There also were marble fragments, a deserted church, and among the thickets heaps of stones, as by Megara ; reliques of the town of Sidds, which was situated between Cromyon and the isthmus. This region also was once a portion of Ionia or Attica. After filling our water-casks we made a fire among the bushes, and lay down by it until the moon was set. hemogla od
the isthmus, and from the brow I had a view of the two gulfs, the Saronic and the Corinthian; the latter shining and placid, and seeming to promise a happy passage from desolation and barbarism. The port of Schænus was three hundred and fifty stadia, or forty-three miles and three quarters from the Piræus.
One of the goatherds assisted in flaying and roasting the kid by the sea side. We retired, after eating, to our boats ; and, an hour or two before day-break, began fishing. We then set sail, and, leaving the port of Cencbreæ and Corinth on our right, coasted by a range of lofty mountains reaching into the water to Epidaurus, a city of the Peloponnesus, and from thence we crossed the bay to Methana.
We passed from Methana to the mountainous island Anchistre, on which are a few cottages of Albanians, who till the scanty soil. We touched likewise on several of the uninhabited rocks and islets in the gulf, as directed by the wind, rowing where the channel was narrow; often becalmed or waiting for a smoother sea; and sometimes reduced to a smaller allowance of bread, wine, and water than was agreeable. We slept away the heat of noon in the shade, and were employed in rambling over our little territory, in searching the transparent waves along the shore for shell fish, or in spreading our nets during the absence of the moon. We discovered by the light of a cedar-torch, a muræna, a fish said to copulate with serpents; resembling an eel, with bright yellow spots. It was in shallow water, and was killed by the Albanian, who attacked it with a knife, but cautiously, fearing its bite, which is reputed venomous.
At length a brisk gale springing up wafted us to the island of Ægina, and increasing became very heavy ; attended with rain. We had reason to rejoice on reaching the shore, though it afforded no hospitable cave or shelter from the weather. We made fast to some rocks in the lee, not far from the barrow of Phocus, and spreading our sails on poles, tent-wise, over our boats, remained there all night, wet and uncomfortable, tossed on the waves and incommoded with the smoke of our fires, especially while our fish were dressing. The next day, the gale abating, we sailed on, and leaving our boats, ascended to the town of Ægina, where we tarried two days, the wind continuing strong and contrary.
A calm ensuing, we re-embarked, intending for the island of Salamis, distant by computation twelve miles from Ægina. The sun was set, and we had rowed above half way, when we began to hear the hollow-sounding fury of the north-west wind, or Sciron, reigning afar off. The sea heaved, with the surface lightly dimpled. The swell increased gradually, and became very formidable to small open wherries; the tempest still raging remote from us. The moon shined bright, disclosing the head-lands and promontories; the sky blue and starry. Our men struggled with all their might to get under the lee of the island of Salamis; fearing, if the gale overtook us, we should be forced out to sea ; and, after great labour, succeeded, much to our satisfaction in general, and more particularly to that of the young Albanian, who was exceedingly terrified, making his crosses, and calling fervently on the Panagia or Virgin Mary to deliver him from the danger he was in. We lighted a fire and supped on the shore, and afterwards lay down to sleep among the mastic-bushes. A heavy dew fell in the night.
Of Salamis-Islets Fragments on Cynosura—Trophy for the
battle of Salamis—The city-Village of Albanians Old Salamis—The flower of Ajač. :1.7472
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de masini po poseb ire de pont The island Salamis is of a very irregular shape. It was reckoned seventy or eighty stadia* long, reaching westward as far as the mountains called Kerata or the Horns. The Athenians and Megarensians contended for it with obstinacy; and Solon or Pisistratus interpolated Homer to shew it had belonged to the Athenians, adding, in the catalogue of the ships, after “ Ajax came from Salamis with twelve vessels," that he stationed them with the Athenian squadron. The city was within Cynosura, or the Dog's Tail, on the opposite side of the bay. But w
*40.15 p., b. Hade do Rio Presi In the morning we coasted, and, passing by a church, on the shore of Salamis, dedicated to St. Nicholas the patron of fishermen, came to Cynosura. We touched on Lipsocatalia, a rocky and barren islet, anciently called Psyttalia. It was supposed to be frequented by the god Pan. There was no image of him formed with art, but only rude representations. Near Psyttalia was an islet named Atalante; and toward the Piræus, another, alike rocky and barren. De r · I landed on Cynosura and examined some remains, consisting of a few stones with a fragment or two of white marble, while the wherries doubled the cape. We then crossed
* Eight miles and three quarters, or ten miles.