CHAP. LXX.

At Gallixithium-At Thithavra-A plane-tree on the shore of the Morea. Site of Bostitza-Egium-The mouth of the gulfLepanto-The Castles-Arrive at Patre.

WE set sail without delay, and, after clearing the bay of Salona, the wind blowing hard and contrary, got to Gallixithium, a mean town, of mud-built houses, with traces of ancient wall by the sea-side. It is supposed anthéa, a town of the Locri Ozola.

We were detained in port until the morning, when we tacked often, and the gale increasing, put in for shelter at Thithavra, where we found other small-craft. We had in view the Acro-corinthus, and the flat summit by Nemea.

Early in the morning we crossed over to the Morea, and anchored by some small-craft and a French vessel, which had sailed with us from Corinth. A plane-tree by the shore is re markable for its vast size and height. It is sound and flourishing, with huge limbs, affording a most capacious and thick shade. A company of armed Albanians, like that at Delphi, was sleeping beneath it, and prevented us from measuring the trunk. We were told that an earthquake, and a mighty inundation of the sea happened not many years ago; that the writer thrice mounted above this tree, and the tall cliff behind it; that some of the branches were torn off by its violence; and that the people fled to the mountains.

Above the sea is a town called Bostitza, which stands on, or near the site of Ægium; for by the plane-tree is a plentiful

source of excellent water, streaming copiously from ten or more mouths of stone; and many transparent springs rise on the beach. Ægium is described as retired from the shore, which afforded plenty of water agreeable to drink from the fountain, and pleasing to the eye.

Ægium was a city of no mean note, in the region called Ægialos, and afterwards Achaia. It had a theatre and temples, some near the sea. One was of Jupiter, styled Homagyrius, because Agamemnon assembled there the principal chieftains of Greece, before the expedition to Troy. It was for many ages the seat of the Achæan congress. The Turks burned Ægium in 1536, and put the inhabitants to the sword, or carried them away into slavery.

It continued to blow until it was dark, when a calm ensued. We proceeded, before the dawn of day, about two miles toward the mouth of the gulf, which is formed by the promontories, once called Rhium and Antirhium. The wind setting in again, met us, and we tarried near a point of land, named anciently Drepanum, because the curve between it and Rhium resembled a sickle. We sailed in the evening, and tacked from shore to shore, but made little way all night.

At day-break we had a distinct view of Lepanto, a city often attacked, taken, and recovered, in the wars of the Turks and Venetians. It is seated on the acclivity of a steep hill, and has been likened to the Papal crown, the lateral walls being crossed by four other ranges, and ascending to a point or summit, on which is a castle terminating the fortification. The wall next to the sea is indented with an oval harbour, of which the entrance is narrow, and capable of admitting only barks and small galleys. The valley on each side of the town was dusky with trees.

The gulf is named

from it; but by the Greeks the place is called Epactos, as anciently Naupactos. It belonged to the Locri Ozolæ ; whose sea-coast, beginning from Cirrha and Phocis, extended a little more than two hundred stadia, or twenty-five miles.

Passing Lepanto, we came between the promontories Rhium and Antirhium, distant from each other seven stadia, or less than a mile. The strait, which divides them, was five stadia wide. The Christians often invading the Ottoman dominions on this side, Bajazet in 1482 erected castles at the mouth of the gulf. One is called the castle of Romelia, the other of the Morea. Both were taken by the Venetian admiral in 1536. The Turkish governors in 1687 blowed up their walls, which were afterwards restored. We sailed close by the latter, a mean fortress, on a low point of land, much out of repair, with the lion of St. Mark over the gate-ways.

We doubled cape Rhium, and before noon anchored in the road of Patræ. Between this place and Lepanto, the Christians, in 1571, obtained a victory from the Turks, in one of the most considerable battles, which ever happened at sea, The gulf of Corinth was reckoned eighty-five miles long.

CHAP. LXXI.

Of Patre-The city-Feast of Diana-The present townThe south side of the gulf of Corinth-Neglect of travellers.

PATRÆ assisted the Etolians, when invaded by the Gauls under Brennus; but afterwards was unfortunate, re

duced to extreme poverty, and almost abandoned. Augustus Cæsar reunited the scattered citizens, and made it a Roman colony, settling a portion of the troops, which obtained the victory of Actium, with other inhabitants, from the adjacent places. Patræ reflourished, and enjoyed dominion over Naupactus, Eanthéa, and several cities of Achaia.

In the time of Pausanias, Patræ was adorned with temples and porticoes, a theatre, and an odéum, which was superior to any in Greece, but that of Atticus Herodes at Athens. In the lower part of the city was a temple of Bacchus Æsymnetes, in which was an image preserved in a chest, and conveyed, it was said, from Troy by Eurypylus; who, on opening it, became disordered in his senses. By the port were temples; and by the sea, one of Ceres, with a. pleasant grove and a prophetic fountain of unerring veracity, in determining the event of any illness. After supplicating the goddess, with incense, the sick person appeared, dead or living, in a mirror, suspended so as to touch the surface of the water:

In the citadel of Patræ was a temple of Diana Laphria, with her statue in the habit of a huntress, of ivory and gold,. given by Augustus Cæsar, when he laid waste Calydon and the cities of Ætolia, to people Nicopolis. The Patrensians honoured her with a yearly festival, which is described by Pausanias, who was a spectator. They formed a circle round the altar with pieces of green wood, each sixteen cubits long; and within heaped dry fuel. The solemnity began with a most magnificent procession, which was closed by the Virginpriestess, in a chariot drawn by stags. On the following day, the city and private persons offered at the altar; fruits, and birds, and all kinds of victims, wild boars, stags, deer, young

wolves, and beasts full grown; after which the fire was kindled. He relates, that a bear and another animal forced a way through the fence, but were re-conducted to the pile. It was not remembered that any wound had ever been received at this ceremony, though the spectacle and sacrifice were as dangerous as savage. The number of women at Patræ was double that of the men. They were employed chiefly in a manufacture of flax, which grew in Elis, weaving garments and attire for the head.

Patræ has been often attacked by enemies, taken, and pillaged. It is a considerable town, at a distance from the sea, situated on the side of a hill, which has its summit crowned with a ruinous castle. This made a brave defence in 1447 against sultan Morat, and held out until the peace was concluded, which first rendered the Morea tributary to the Turks. A dry flat before it was once the port, which has been choked with mud. It has now, as in the time of Strabo, only an indifferent road for vessels. The house of Nicholas Paul, Esquire, the English consul, stood on part of the wall, either of the theatre or the odéum. By a fountain was a fragment of a Latin inscription. We saw also a large marble bust, much defaced; and the French consul shewed us a collection of medals. We found nothing remarkable in the citadel. It is a place of some trade, and is inhabited by Jews, as well as by Turks and Greeks. The latter have several churches. One is dedicated to St. Andrew, the apostle, who suffered martyrdom there, and is of great sanctity. It had been recently repaired. The site, by the sea, is supposed that of the temple of Ceres. By it is a fountain. The air is bad, and the country round about overrun with the low shrub called glycyrrhiza, or licorice.