as Nestor did on his return from Troy, toward Psyra. This little island was reckoned forty stadia, or five miles in circuit; and fifty stadia, or six miles and a quarter, from Melæna, a promontory of Chios. It lay opposite to the rugged tract called Arvisia, once famous for its nectar. The wind was northerly and strong, and it was apprehended would become contrary; being remarked to set commonly into the gulf of Thessalonica during the day, at this season; and to go back again, as it were, toward morning; in the same manner as the inbat and land-breeze prevail alternately in the gulf of Smyrna. We endeavoured to get under the lee of Psyra, and succeeding, we sailed by a chapel of St. George standing on a head-land, when the captain and crew made their crosses very devoutly. The same ceremony was repeated soon after at one of the Panagia, or Virgin Mary. We then opened the harbour of the town, and were desirous to put in, but the wind would not permit.

The day had been cloudy, and distant flashes of pale lightning in the south, with screaming voices in the air, as was surmised, of some sea-bird flying to land, seemed to portend a blustering and disagreeable night. The captain, who was skilled in the previous signs of foul weather, prepared his bark by taking down the triangular main-sail, and hoisting a latin, or square one, as more manageable. The wind increasing, and the sea running very high, our vessel laboured exceedingly. It was now total darkness, no moon or stars, but the sky expanding terribly on all sides with livid flames, disclosing the bright waves vehemently assailing, and every

Strabo, p. 645. Cellarius has confounded the two islands, and made the city Chios, instead of Psyra, to be forty stadia in circuit, p. 12.

moment apparently swelling to overwhelm us. It thundered also, and rained heavily.

The poop of our boat was covered, and would contain three persons lying along, or sitting. It was furnished with arms, and in a niche was a picture of the Panagia, of a saint, and of the crucifixion, on boards, with a lamp burning in a lanthorn. This seemed an eligible retreat from the noise and confusion on the open deck, where all hands were fully employed. The vessel shook, and reeled to and fro excessively; the violence of its motion shifting me from side to side several times, though I strove to preserve my position unaltered. The captain at intervals looked in, and invoked his deities to assuage the wind, and smooth the waves; or, prostrate on his belly, inspected the compass by the glimmering light of the lamp, and gave directions to the man at the helm. The tardy morning, as it were, mocked our impatience, while we continued beating the waves and tossing. At length it dawned, when we found we had been driven from our course; but the gale abated, leaving behind a very turbulent swell.

The following day was consumed in standing to and fro between the island Andros, and a cape now called D'Oro, but anciently Cephareus, the southern promontory of Euboea toward the Hellespont; once noted for dangerous currents, and the destruction of the Grecian fleet, on its return from Troy. Before midnight we gained a small port beyond it; where we found at day-break a couple of goat-herds, with their flocks, traces of a wall, and of a chapel of the Panagia. On a rocky eminence was the ruin of a pharos erected, we were told by a corsair, for the benefit of signals, and to facilitate his entering in the dark.

Geræstus, the southern promontory of Euboea toward Attica, was reckoned ten miles from Andros, and thirty-nine from the island Cea. Between it and Cephareus was a city named Carystus, and near it a quarry, with a temple of the marble Apollo, from which they crossed to Alæ of Araphen in Attica. The columns cut there were much esteemed, and celebrated for their beauty. It produced also a stone, the amianthus, which, when combed, was woven into towels. Plutarch relates, that some fibres only, or narrow threads, of this substance were discovered in his time; but that towels made of it, with nets and cawls, used by women for their hair, were then extant, and, when soiled, were thrown into a fire, by which they were rendered white and clean, as by washing. We sailed by the town, which retains its ancient name, in the morning. It stands at some distance from the shore; the houses rising on the bare slope of a rocky hill. The inhabitants have a very bad character. The lofty summits of Oche, the mountain above it, were covered with white clouds.

In the evening we were again forced into a port or creek; but we had now gained the European continent, and were arrived in Attica. We moored to a rock, on which was a ruined chapel of the Panagia. This being Saturday, our mariners, about sun-set, bore thither Labdanum to be used as incense, with coals of fire, and performed their customary devotions.

CHAP. II.

Set sail-Of Hydre--We pass the island Helene-In the port of Sunium-Of the town-The temple of Minerva SuniasHydriote vessels.

EARLY in the morning we steered with a favourable breeze toward Sunium, a promontory of Attica, fronting the islands called Cyclades and the Egean Sea; distant three hundred stadia, or thirty-seven miles and a half from the southernmost promontory of Euboea, named Leuce or White. The sun arose burnishing the silver deep, skirted by the Attic and Peloponnesian coasts. We had capes, mountains, and islands in view; and, among the latter, the Hydriotes soon discovered their native rock, which they beheld, though bare and producing nothing, with the same partiality of affection, as if it were adorned with the golden fruits, and perfumed by the aromatic gales of Scio; pointing it out, and expatiating on the liberty they possessed there.

Hydre, or Hydrea, is on the coast of the Peloponnesus, and has been mentioned, as lying in the way from Scyllæum to Hermione.* The inhabitants are maintained wholly by the sea, to which the males are bred from their childhood. They now possessed, as we were told, above a hundred and twenty

* Sailing from Scyllæum to Hermione was Point Bucephala, then the islands Haliusa, Pityusa, and Aristeras; then the cape called Acra, then the island Tricana, then a mountain projecting into the sea, named Buporthmos, before which was the island Aperopia, and near it Hydrea. Pausanias, p. 77.

boats of various sizes, some better armed for defence, than several English vessels frequenting the Archipelago. They are accounted the best sailors in the Levant, boldly navigating in rough weather, and venturing to sea at night, if in danger of being intercepted by an enemy, or by pirates. They pay to the Grand Seignior two purses yearly, as caratch or tribute-money; which sum, with expenses, fees, and presents, amounting nearly to two more, is assessed, at the rate of three piasters a house. The captain-pasha sends a galeote from Paros with officers, who receive it, and are entertained by a papas or Greek priest at the monastery by the sea-side, below the town. No Turk resides among them, and they enjoy the use of bells to their churches, without control; a privilege on which they enlarge, as if alike pregnant with profit and delight.

We now approached Cape Sunium, which is steep, abrupt, and rocky. On it is the ruin of the temple of Minerva Sunias, overlooking from its lofty situation the subject deep, and visible from afar. We often lost, and recovered again, the view of this beautiful object; sailing on a wide canal, between Attica and Macronisi,t or Long Island. This was called anciently Helene, because, it was said, Helen had landed on it, in her way to Lacedæmon, after Troy was taken. It ranges, like Euboea, before the continent, and belonged to the Athenians; but was of little value, being rough and desert. It was reckoned about sixty stadia, or seven miles and a half long; five miles from Sunium, and as many from Cea, which lies beyond it.

+ This island has been mistaken for the Cranaæ of Homer. Vid. Strab. p. 398. Cellar. p. 830.