Narrative of a Journey in South America.

Charming plantations extend from it in all directions, and there is a general air of prosperity, and still more of activity, which I was puzzled to account for, until I learned that work was here chiefly performed by free labourers, and the use of slaves for the great purposes of society, comparatively speaking, but little known.

We were conducted to a decent Posada, and our Mulatto, without asking any questions, having slung our hammocks as a matter of course, we followed the general example of thus resting for two hours during the heat of the day. In the afternoon we pursued our journey. Soon after leaving Maracai we began to have occasional views of the lake through the trees and bushes which border the road; and having proceeded about three leagues, and passing a few houses called Tapatapa, we arrived at La Cabrera, or the Goatfold; where stood a Pulperia, and a few houses at the foot of a small calcareous hill. As the sun was just about to set, we ascended this eminence by a winding path formed by the numerous goats which browze upon it, and enjoyed from the top a view the most beautiful that can be imagined. The hills at La Cabrera advance into the lake, and thus enable us to see nearly the whole of its extent. The southern side, even viewed at this distance, is highly picturesque, the water approaching close to the foot of the hills; which, being covered with forests of mimosas and broad-leaved bananas, have a softness and luxuriancy which cannot be surpassed. At both ends of the lake, the country is level, soon terminating to the eastward in the hills which shut in the valley of La Victoria, but extending to the south-west beyond Valencia farther than the eye can reach. The whole of this grand scene was now enriched with all the soft tints which the sun, just sunk below the horizon, could impart in this delightful climate. The tops of the highest mountains still glowed with fire, but a purple leight reigned in the valleys, and a soberer tint was spread over the surface of the lake.

At length the prospect became indistinct, and we descended to the house. The small canoes of the fishermen were drawn up on the beach; but we observed black moving spots upon the lake, which, we were afterwards informed, were the heads of bavus, a species of crocodile, three or four feet in length, which are here very numerous, but harmless. In the interior of the country, they are found in small lakes and ponds, where they are frequently seen sleeping with their heads above the surface. Having reached the house, we found our supper prepared of fish fresh from the lake, and were afterwards presented with cocoa made very sweet, and with draughts of guarapo. A shed, supported by posts, and open on three sides, was allotted to us for the night. Our hammocks were fastened from side to side, and we enjoyed, as we lay, the brilliancy of the stars, until gradually lulled to sleep by the monotonous sound of the smali waves which fell upon the shore.

We set off, as usual, before break of day. At the end of five leagues, after passing the small hamlets of Mariara, Agua Blanca, Cura, and San Joaquin, the former of which has a neat little white church, we arrive at

Narrative of a Journey in South America.

Guacara, a straggling village, containing, as I should suppose, about four thousand inhabitants. The houses are almost universally low and mean, bat bear the appearance of increasing in number. Here we rested, the heat becoming oppressive. We procured in the village bananas, eggs, and cakes of maize, on which we breakfasted, and then rested in our hammocks till the afternoon. From Guacara to Valencia, is a distance of four leagues, through a country mostly open, and constantly level. As we approach Valencia, the road winds near the foot of some high and steep rocks, forming here a kind of pass; directly after which we have a view of the town, situated upon small slopes, and open on every side. Before entering it, we cross a small stream, which runs at the foot of the first of these slopes, and are immediately in the town, the appearance of which has nothing striking. Some of the streets, it is true, are tolerably well built; but the houses are in general low and irregular. On the eastern side of the great square, stands the principal church, by no means equal to that of La Victoria, either in its size or proportions. (To be continued.)

JOURNAL OF THE EIGHTY THIRD REGIMENT.

(Continued from page 141.)

BY general orders of the 8th of May, the Brigade of Guards, General A, Campbell's and General Sonntag's Brigades, were directed to march on the following morning, and to take with them a heavy and a light sixpounder brigade. These corps formed the main body or reserve of the army, and Lieutenant-General Sherbrooke was requested to take upon himself the command thereof. General Cameron was also ordered to put his brigade in motion at the same time, though further directions would be sent him respecting its march.

In the after general orders a new division of the army took place, in consequence of the arrival of Lieutenant-General Edward Paget, and it was therefore to be in future divided as follows:

Guards-Brigadier-General H. Campbell's, Major-General Hill's, Brigadier-General A. Campbell's, and Brigadier-General Cameron's brigades; to form the right wing, and to be under the command of Lieutenant-General Sherbrooke; a brigade of heavy six-pounders, and a brigade of light six-pounders to accompany it.

King's German Legion, four battalions. Brigadier-General R. Stewart's, and Brigadier-General Sonntag's brigades; to form the left wing, and to be under the command of Lieutenant-General E. Paget; a brigade of six-pounders, and a brigade of three-pounders to accompany this wing also.

These wings were to be formed into two or more lines, as circumstances

Journal of the Eighty-third Regiment.

should require; and brigades were to be detached from them according to the necessity of the case; either for the purpose of forming advanced guards

or reserves.

General Cameron's instructions were to support Major-General Hill, whose brigade was destined to clear the sea-coast and turn the enemy's right flank, by forcing his advanced posts stationed around the town of Ovar. The two divisions under the immediate direction of Lieutenant-Generals Sherbrooke and Edward Paget, followed the main road to Oporto, and were to force the centre and left of the enemy, whose advanced guard lay in the Neighbourhood of Albergaria*.

The pleasant rising grounds every where seen in the vicinity of Coimbra, extend not beyond Aos Fornos; for at this spot the country flattens, becomes of a sandy nature covered with heath, underwood, and fir forests, which appearance continues until it reaches Mealhada on the main road, and Mamarosa on the western, or coast road to Oporto. Both these ways, however, have the same origin at Coimbra, and do not separate before passing Aos Fornos, which is a solitary hut in a fir grove.

Aos Marcos and Ao Carquejo are paltry hamlets. All the other intermediate places are villages, among which are some tolerably thriving, populous, and comfortable, none of them being naturally poor.

The two first divisions under Generals Sherbrooke and Paget, cantoned in and around the villages of Mealhada, Pedreira, Belais, and Graciosa. At a handsome quinta near the latter place head-quarters were established. General Hill's brigade moved towards Aveiro from its cantonments at Murtede, Vendas Novas, and Samel, in order to make room for Cameron's, ordered to take up the quarters' vacated.

Previous to the march from Coimbra, all Brigade-Majors had been directed to attend at general head-quarters immediately after distributing their respective brigades in the cantonments allotted to them. I was, therefore, (acting on the staff during the indisposition of Captain B-) under the necessity of going from Vendas Novas to Graciosa; an unfrequented track, across fields, led from General Cameron's quarters through the villages of Outeito, Oite, and Belais, to the general head-quarters, and as this was the nearest means of communication, I followed it. The distance might be three leagues over a rough, winding, and narrow path.

+ Route of the divisions under Generals Sherbrooke and Paget. - Coimbra to Aos Fornos league, Ao Carquejo 1, Mealhada 1, Pedreira 1, Avelans 1, Aguada 1, Serdao 1, Vouga 1, Albergaria Velha !, Albergaria Nova 1, Pinheiro 1, Oliveira de Azemeis 1, Santo Antonio 1, Souto Redonda 1, Grijo 1, Carvalhos 1, Oporto 1.. Total, 17 leagues.

Route of Lieutenant-General Hill's and Brigadier-General Cameron's Brigades.-' Coimbra to Aos Fornos 1 league, Aos Marcos 1, Murtede 1, Venda Nova 1, Samel 1, Mamarosa 1, Palhaça I, Salgueiro 1, Aveiro 1, Ovar (by water) 5, Cortigaça 1, Paramos 1, Corvo 1. Chamorre 1, Oporto 1.-Total, 19 leagues.

Journal of the Eighty-third Regiment.

The villages of Outeito and Oite are pretty large and wealthy, being surronuded by vineyards, corn fields, and orchards, and built on gentle elevations.

Having received the general orders of the day, I returned by another road, though longer, somewhat better, being carried over a fine plain country, and reached Vendas Novas about eleven o'clock the same night.

Though fatigued I was not displeased at the excursion, as it gave me an opportunity of seeing that the soil around Pedreira, Graciosa, and Belais, was of a fertile kind, and capable of yielding abundance of every grain: yet notwithstanding the richness and the many fine crops of barley and Indian corn which appeared on each side the road, a farm house was not to be seen, nor do I recollect noticing a single hay rick or corn stack.

The following morning I left the brigade just without Vendas Novas, and struck across the country for Pedreira, intending thence to follow the high road to Albergaria, where head-quarters were to be established on the night of the 10th.

At Oite I stopped at a venda to refresh inyself and horse before the heat of the day came on. But ere the people could serve me, the Fidalgo (Lord of the Manor) entered the room where I was sitting, and in very handsome terms invited me to his house, assuring me I should there fare much bet ter. I accepted his friendly invitation, and had no cause to regret compliance; for the worthy seignior treated me with genuine hospitality, the value of which was further inhanced by the gratifying attentions of an amiable hostess. After making a hearty repast of cakes, fruits, cold fowl, preserves, and wine, I took a grateful leave, and received my generous hosts hearty wishes of success and health.

In Oite, as indeed in almost every village, one particularly large stone building was always discernible. By its extent and respectable appearance, the traveller forms a just conclusion, that it is the residence of the Fidalgo. The windows, however, are commonly without panes of glass, and the rooms chiefly filled with antique furniture.

BELAIS.- After crossing the Belais rivulet, the road enters the hamlet of that name, which is one of the poorest in this district. Thence to Sardas, the road is very narrow, bordered by hedges or skirted by wooded heights, and throughout much wanting of repairs. It overlooks a level country, however, shaded in several places by forests of fir trees; other spots are converted into arable land, particularly in the neighbourhood of the dwellings.

After crossing the bridge of Vouga the road runs over a tract of country agreeably diversified with hill and dale, studded with numerous groves of cork and fir trees, which pleasing appearance it has to the very entrance of Albergaria.

ALBERGARIA VELHA,- Albergari Velha is a large straggling place, with some tolerable houses, and two churches; it is surrounded by vineyards gardens, and arable land. Though the place could shelter a great body

Journal of the Eighty-third Regiment.

of troops, and though I arrived very early in the evening, every house was occupied, and some were full of soldiers; so that I could not expect a billet, or even covering for the night. Fortune, however, favoured me, for she threw in my way the provost-marshal, who had been serjeant in the regiment where I was ensign. He knew and accosted me, while in the street, undecided how to act. His billet, he told me, though in an empty building, was tolerable, and, as he pressed me to use it, I shared it with him. He informed me a sharp skirmish had that same day taken place in the neighbourhood, between some of our cavalry and a party of French mounted riflemen, the result of which was highly creditable to our soldiers. It is nevertheless true, that a corps of Portuguese militia under Colonel Trant (having with it two light threepounder mountain pieces, from which it kept up an incessant fire on the enemy hidden among the trees) assisted in expelling the French from the woods near the Vouga, who were there posted in considerable numbers, and to which, as cover, they had on the night of the 9th retreated from the left bank.

This detachment of ours was only the advance of a more considerable body which passed the river very early in the morning, with the hope of surprising and intercepting such of the enemy as were stationed on the northern bank, under the command of General Franchesci, but it unfortunately effected only a very small part of its commission; for the French retired with a very trifling loss of men and horses, which they left in the woods and at Oliveira de Azemeis, whither our brave dragoons closely followed them.

Although my opinions of Success were never very sanguine, I firmly believe my heart was ever inclined to render justice to all; and I can honestly declare that my mind was neither biassed in favour of, nor prejudiced against any particular General; that my tongue was always ready to praise an officer whom I conceived merited approbation, and without vanity I can say, that no prayers could have been more sincere, nor zeal more active for the glory of the British army than what I, from my very soul, formed and felt.

i

When I wrote my remarks on the battle between Laborde and our army on the Monte St. Anna, Sir Arthur Wellesley was in England, and the British were under the command of that gentlemanlike officer Sir John Craddock. No motive, therefore, on my part existed either for flattery or spleen, with the same candour (and with feelings equally uninfluenced by any other motive than truth) I shall continue to register my observations; and it consequently behoves me to detail those remarks which occurred on bearing of the skirmish at Albergaria.

I always, though perhaps wrongly, regarded over sanguinity as Sir Arthur Wellesly's predominating characteristic. This affair in some measure confirmed the opinion I had formed. At all events I could not acquit Sir Arthur of some indiscretion, for permitting the officers of his personal staff to converse publicly on his future intentions, and to impart, unto all who