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Courtine. 'Tis a fine equipage I am like to be reduced to; I shall be ere long as greasy as an Alsatian bully; this flopping hat, pinned up on one side, with a sandy weather-beaten peruke, dirty linen, and to complete the figure, a long scandalous iron sword jarring at my heels.-Otway, The Soldier's Fortune, 4to, 1681.
The original of Scott's Duke Hildebrod may be found in Shadwell's Woman Captain (4to, 1680). Steele in The Tatler of September 10, 1709 (No. 66), speaks of Alsatia as "now in ruins.” It is not unlikely that the Landgraviate of Alsace (German Elzass, Latin Alsatia), long a borderland and a cause of contention, often the seat of war, and familiarly known to our Low Country soldiers, suggested the cant name of Alsatia to the precinct of Whitefriars. This privileged spot stood much in the same position to the Temple and Westminster as Alsace did to France and the central powers of Europe. In the Temple, students were studying to observe the law; and in Alsatia adjoining, debtors to avoid and violate it; the Alsatians were troublesome neighbours to the Templars, and the Templars as troublesome neighbours to the Alsatians.
The Templars shall not dare
Cartwright's Ordinary, 8vo, 1651.
Alsop's Buildings (afterwards called Alsop TERRACE), NEW ROAD. The first row of large houses on the north side, west of Regent's Park, now absorbed in MARYLEBONE ROAD.
At No. 30 lived for thirty years (1818-1848) John Martin, the painter of Belshazzar's Feast and other fine works. The studio at the back was built by him.
Amelia Place, BROMPTON (now incorporated with FULHAM ROAD), a small pleasant row of houses looking on a nursery garden, now Pelham Crescent. At No. 7 the Right Hon. John Philpot Curran died, October 14, 1817. He had resided there for twelve months. “His forenoon was generally passed in a solitary ramble through the neighbouring fields and gardens (which have now disappeared), and in the evening he enjoyed the conversation of a few friends.”i Banim, the Irish novelist, on first coming to London, 1822, had lodgings in the house in which his illustrious countryman had died.
Amen Corner, AVE MARIA LANE, PATERNOSTER Row.
At the end of Pater-Noster Row is Ave-Mary Lane, so called upon the like occasion of text-writers and bead-makers then dwelling there ; and at the end of that lane is likewise Creede Lane, lately so called, but sometimes Spurrier Row, of spurriers dwelling there; and Amen Lane is added thereunto betwixt the south end of Warwick Lane and the north end of Ave-Mary Lane. -Stow, p. 127.
At No. 4 Amen Corner is the entrance to AMEN Court, where are the dwellings of the Canons residentiary of St. Paul's.
I have taken possession of my preferment. The house is in Amen Corner,-an awkward name on a card, and an awkward annunciation to the coachman on leaving a fashionable mansion.-Sydney Smith to the Countess of Morley, Bristol, 1831.
1 Dillon Croker's Walk to Fulham, p. 77 ; Regan, Life of Curran, p. 271.
Ampthill Square, a turning out of the Hampstead Road, named after Ampthill Park in Bedfordshire, a seat of the Duke of Bedford. The south-west corner of the enclosure is crossed by a deep cutting of the London and North-Western Railway. Henry West Betty, better known as the “Infant Roscius” (b. September 13, 1791), died at his house in the square in September 1874.
Ampton Street, GRAY'S INN ROAD (east side) to Frederick Place. Here, in the autumn of 1830, when Thomas Carlyle brought his wife for the first time to London—and during his vain search for a publisher for the newly-finished Sartor Resartus—they spent "an interesting, cheery, and in spite of poor arrangements, really pleasant winter. We lodged in Ampton Street, Gray's Inn Lane, clean and decent pair of rooms, and quiet decent people.” Visitors “in plenty: John Mill one of the most frequent. · · Jeffrey, Lord Advocate, often came on an afternoon." They stayed about three months. “I wrote Johnson here just before going.”-Reminiscences, vol. ii. p. 163.
Amwell Street, by the New River Head, PENTONVILLE, so called from the village of Amwell
, in Hertfordshire, where the New River has its rise. One of the registration sub-districts of the parish of Clerkenwell is named Amwell.
Anchor Lane, on the south side of UPPER THAMES STREET, opposite Addle Hill—the site now marked by Anchor Wharf.
On July 30, 1557, Henry Machyn, the Diarist, interrupts his daily list of funerals, and records how he "and mony mo did eat half a bushel of owsturs in Anckur Lane at Master Smyth and Master Gytton's cellar, upon hogsheads and candlelight, and onions and red ale, and claret ale, and muscadel and malmsey ale, fre cope, at 8 in the morning.-P. 143.
A curious little peep into London life three centuries ago !
In the Calendar of State Papers (Domestic, 1661-1662, p. 87), reference is made to a conventicle in this lane, “where two pulpits are set up for prophesying.”
Andrew's (St.), HOLBORN, a parish church on Holborn Hill (now Holborn Viaduct), between Shoe Lane and St. Andrew Street, in the ward of Farringdon Without, designed by Sir C. Wren in 1676, on the site of the old church, which escaped the Fire, but was so decayed that it had to be taken down, except the tower. The tower, which still shows two or three of the Gothic arches, was refaced with Portland stone in 1704. The church is spacious, and admirably fitted for seeing and hearing. It is 105 feet long, 63 feet wide, and 43 high. It cost £9000. The interior of the church much resembles that of St. James's, Westminster. The organ was the larger portion of the rejected organ of the Temple Church, made by Harris, in competition with Father Schmydt; but it gave place, in 1872, to a new and more powerful instrument, constructed by Messrs. Hill. The coloured glass in the east window was executed by Joshua Price in 1718, and for the period of its erection is very good. The church was thoroughly repaired in
1851, and a good deal altered internally in 1872, when the churchyard was altered to adapt it to the level of the new Holborn Viaduct. The painted glass in the west window is new. In 2 Edw. III. the parish is styled “St. Andrew in Purtepul, without the Bar, in the suburb of London."1 Hacket, afterwards bishop of Coventry and Lichfield, and the author of the Life of Lord Keeper Williams, was several years rector of this church. One Sunday, while he was reading the Common Prayer in St. Andrew, a soldier of the Earl of Essex came and clapped a pistol to his breast and commanded him to read no further. Not at all terrified, Hacket said he would do what became a divine, and he might do what became a soldier. He was permitted to proceed. Another eminent rector was Edward Stillingfleet, afterwards bishop of Worcester. While Stillingfleet was rector of St. Andrew, the young Richard Bentley resided with him as tutor to his son. A rector eminent in a different way was Dr. Sacheverel, whose “Trial” is matter of English history. Sacheverel, who received the living of St. Andrew as a reward for the trial he had gone through, is buried in the chancel of the church, under an inscribed stone (d. 1724).
In the south aisle is a tablet to Emery, the actor (d. 1822). William Whiston, the Nonconformist preacher, was a constant attendant at this church, but left the church and parish on Sacheverel refusing to allow him to take the communion. The parish registers record the baptism and burial of two of our most unfortunate Sons of Song: under January 18, 1696-1697, the baptism of Richard Savage ; and under August 28, 1770, the burial of Thomas Chatterton. Savage was born in Fox Court, Brooke Street, and Chatterton died in Brooke Street. Savage died in Bristol, and Chatterton was born in Bristol. Chatterton is entered in the register as “William Chatterton, interred in the graveyard of Shoe Lane Workhouse." There are other interesting entries in the register : the burial, in 1561, of Robert Coke of Mileham, in Norfolk, the father of Sir Edward Coke: in the old church was a monument to his memory; the marriage (1598) of Edward Coke, “the Queen's Attorney-General,” and “my Lady Elizabeth Hatton ;” the marriage (1638) of Colonel Hutchinson and Lucy Apsley (Mrs. Hutchinson's Memoirs are well known); the burial (1643) of Nathaniel Tomkins, executed for his share in Waller's plot; the burial (1690) of Theodore Haak, one of the founders of the Royal Society; the burial (1720) of John Hughes, author of The Siege of Damascus; the baptism of Henry Addington, Speaker and Prime Minister, June 30, 1757; the burial (1802) of Joseph Strutt, author of Sports and Pastimes; the marriage (on Sunday, May 1, 1808), of William Hazlitt and Sarah Stoddart : Charles Lamb was best man, and Mary Lamb bridesmaid, and Lamb was near being turned out of the church for laughing. One remarkable entry runs thus :
Baptized July 31, 1817, Benjamin, said to be about twelve years old, son of
1 Historical MSS. Comm., Appendix to Ninth Report, p. 3.
Isaac and Maria D'Israeli, King's Road, Gentleman. A clergyman named Thimbleby performed the ceremony.
Lord Chancellor Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, was buried here, but his body was afterwards removed to Tichfield.—Cooper, Athen. Cant. Webster the dramatist is said by Gildon to have been clerk of this parish.
The living is a rectory of the value of £900, in the gift of the Duke of Buccleuch.
Andrew's (St.) Hubberd, or ST. ANDREW IN EASTCHEAP, a church which stood between St. Botolph's Lane and Love Lane, in Billingsgate Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Weigh House Yard afterwards occupied the site. The parish church is St. Mary-at-Hill, to which parish St. Andrew's Hubberd is now united.
Andrew's (St.) Undershaft, a church erected 1520-1532, one of the latest in the perpendicular period of Gothic architecture, at the corner of St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall Street, in Aldgate Ward, and called Undershaft“ because that of old time every year (on May-day in the morning), it was used that an high or long shaft or May-pole was set up there before the south door of the said church.” As the shaft overtopped the steeple the church in St. Mary Axe received the additional name of St. Andrew's Undershaft, to distinguish it from other churches in London dedicated to the same saint. This shaft is said by Stow to be alluded to in a “Chance of Dice," a poem attributed by him to Chaucer, but now unknown.
The last year of the shaft overlooking the old church was on “Evil May-day," 1517, when a serious fray took place, amid the gaieties of the occasion, between the apprentices and the settled foreigners of the parish. This was good reason for not hoisting it again; and for two and thirty years the shaft remained unraised. Another fate yet awaited it : a certain curate, whom Stow calls Sir Stephen, preached against it at Paul's Cross and accused the inhabitants of the parish it was in of setting up for themselves an idol, inasmuch as they had named their church with the addition of “under the shaft.” “I heard his sermon at Paul's Cross,” says Stow, “and I saw the effect that followed.” The effect was that the inhabitants first sawed into pieces and then burnt the old May-pole of their parish.
The church is considered by some to be the first church erected in London with a special view to the Reformed worship. It consists of a nave and two side aisles. The roof is ribbed and almost flat. The large east window contained full length portraits of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and Charles II., all very much faded. The exterior was in 1866 cleared from the cement with which it had been covered, and partially restored by Mr. Thomas C. Clerke, but a more thorough restoration was effected in 1875-1876, when the interior was entirely remodelled. The glass spoken of above was
1 Stow, p. 54.
removed to the west window, the east window filled with new glass, and a new and larger chancel, with reredos and sanctuary, designed by Mr. A. Blomfield, A.R.A., added.
Terra-cotta monument to John Stow, author of the invaluable Survey which bears his name, erected at the expense of his widow, and once painted to resemble life. The honest old citizen and chronicler is represented sitting with a book on a table before him, and a pen in his hand.
The figure is cramped, but the head has an air and character which marks it out for a likeness. There was once a railing before it. John Stow was born in the parish of St. Michael's, Cornhill, about the year 1525. "In 1549," says Strype, “I find him dwelling by the Well within Aldgate, where now a pump standeth, between Leadenhall Street and Fenchurch Street.” He was by trade a tailor, and the arms of his Company, the Merchant Tailors, figure on his tomb. He died in the parish of St. Andrew's Undershaft, April 5, 1605, old, poor, and neglected. His remains were disturbed in the year 1732, and it is said removed. 1 Monument to Sir Hugh Hammersley (d. 1636). Sir Hugh is represented kneeling underneath a canopy: behind him kneels his wife. All this is common enough: not so the two full-length cavalier figures on each side, which are conceived with an ease and an elegance not then common in English sculpture. The artist's name is said to have been Thomas Madden: he is not mentioned by Walpole. Peter Motteux, the translator of Don Quixote, lies buried in this church, but without a monument. He kept a large East India warehouse in Leadenhall Street, and died (1718) in a house of ill-fame in Butcher Row in the Strand. The living is a rectory in the gift of the Bishop of London, value £2000.
Hans Holbein the painter resided in this parish, and died here in 1543 (not in 1554 as usually stated). His name occurs in a Subsidy Roll for the city of London, dated October 24, 1541. “Aldgate Warde, Parisshe of Saint Andrewe Undershafte Straunger: Hans Holbene in fee xxx.li. . . . iij.li.”—Quoted by Mr. A. W. Franks (Discovery of the Will of Hans Holbein), Archæologia, vol. xxxix., p. 17. Holbein was at this time in receipt of £30 annually as painter to the king; the tax is so large because he is a foreigner (straunger). The will of “ Johannis, alias Hans Holbein, nuper parochie sancti Andree Undershafte,” dated October 7, 1543, was proved by his executor, “Mr. John of Anwarpe," on November 29 following.- Archæologia, vol. xxxix. Stow had been “told that Hans Holbein the great and inimitable painter" was buried in the neighbouring church (eastward) of St. Catherine Cree, but that when the Earl of Arundel would have set up a monument to his memory he could not learn where his corpse lay. Holbein died, as is believed, of the plague, and at such times little heed was given as to the exact place of sepulture.Wornum's Holbein, p. 365. Andrew's (St.) by the Wardrobe, a church on the east side of
1 Maitland, ed. 1739, p. 368.