CHAP. XIV.-THE CANTON OF BASLE.

Physical Features.] The mountains of Basle or Basel belong to the Jura. The principal river is the Rhine, to which this country supplies numerous small tributaries. There are no large lakes, but several mineral springs.

Climate and Productions.] The climate is pure and healthy, and the country is well-sheltered by the heights of the Jura. The land is well cultivated, and fruit is grown in great quantity. The salmon-fisheries on the Rhine are very productive, and the manufactures and commerce of the country are animated.

Population and Government.] In 1774 the population of this canton amounted to 38,625; and in 1796 it had increased to 42,193. The government is a mixture of aristocracy and democracy. The legislative council consists of 150, and the executive of 25 members. The revenue is considerable, this canton being one of the wealthiest in the confederacy.

Chief City and Towns.] Basle, the largest city of Switzerland, is situated upon the Rhine, by which it is divided into two parts, united by a bridge 600 feet in length. The most extensive part of the city is that which is situated on what is generally called the left bank of the Rhine, or on that side which is towards Switzerland. The cathedral, which contains the tomb of the celebrated Erasmus, is a Gothic building of considerable elegance. The council-hall is well built; it is believed that Holbein painted three of the walls, only one of which has escaped the ravages of time. Basle has a library of 28,000 volumes, and is the seat of a University which was founded in 1495. The elder and younger Bartorf, so famous in the 17th century for their knowledge of Hebrew and Rabbinical learning, were professors in this University, as also the celebrated James, John, and Daniel Bornouille. On the walls of a church-yard here the famous Dance of Death was painted by Holbein after the disaster of a plague anterior to his time. In 1779 Basle contained 2,120 houses, and 15,040 inhabitants; in 1816 it contained 2,200 houses, with 16,200 inhabitants; and its population was estimated by Stein in 1826 at 16,420. Basle was the birth-place of the philosopher Iselin, the mathematician Euler, and the painter Holbein. It is 174 miles N. by E. of Geneva, and 250 E. by S. of Paris; in long. 7° 30′ E., and lat. 47° 33′ 34′′ N. -St Jacob, in the circle of the Under Aemter, is celebrated as having been the scene of the heroic struggle of 1644.-Augst or Basel Augst, at the influx of the Ergolz into the Rhine, has two paper-mills and some manufactures. It was the Augusta Rauracorum of the Romans.

CHAP. XV.-THE CANTON OF SCHAFFHAUSEN.

A RIDGE of mountains called Randen separates this canton on one side from Baden; but they only rise 1,200 feet above the level of the Rhine, which is the principal river, and here forms the celebrated cataract of Schaffhausen. The inhabitants, with the exception of one parish, Catholic, are of the Reformed creed; they are of German descent, and more nearly resemble the Suabians than the other Swiss. Schaffhausen on the Rhine, the birth-place of the historian John Muller, has a population of 7,000 inhabitants.-St

Stein, at the outflow of the Rhine from the lake of Constance, is a very industrious town.

CHAP. XVI.-THE CANTON OF APPENZELL.

Physical Features.] The canton of Appenzell lies wholly within that of St Gall. The whole country lies high; and the soil is stony and rugged, intersected only by a few mountain-streams.

Inhabitants and Government.] The Appenzellers are an industrious race of German descent. It was early divided into two independent republics,—the Outer-Rhoden and Inner-Rhoden. Of these the first, which is the largest, was a Catholic, the other a Protestant State. The foundation of the constitution was the sovereignty of the people; and this idea was realized in practice every year when the whole male population of each district, above the age of 16, met to enact laws, elect officers, and form alliances. Both districts still retain their independent democratic assembly and constitution; but they are considered as forming one canton in the confederacy, and send one deputy alternately to the Diet. By all accounts, the Catholic district is inferior to that of the Protestants in wealth, industry, and cleanliness.

Chief Towns.] Appenzell, in the Inner Rhoden, contains 3,000 inhabitants, a monastery, and a nunnery.-Herisau, in the Outer Rhoden, is a place of considerable commerce. In 1734 it had 4,816 inhabitants; the population is now estimated at 7,000.

CHAP. XVII.-THE CANTON OF ST GALL.

THE extreme uncertainty attending the admeasurements of foreign geographers eminently appears in the various calculations which they have given of the superficial contents of this canton; one geographer estimating it at 38, another at 48, and another at 52 German square miles. The Rhine is the principal river. Manufactures have declined here of late, but there is still a considerable trade in cotton goods conducted at St Gall. The inhabitants are of German descent; and the government is a mixture of aristocracy and democracy. St Gall is a town of nearly 10,000 inhabitants.-Rorschach on the lake of Constance, a town of 2,000 inhabitants, conducts an extensive trade in corn.-Pfeffers possesses a warm spring of the temperature of 99° 5' Fahrenheit and a large bathing establishment.

CHAP. XVIII.-THE CANTON OF THE GRISONS.

THE Bündten, Grandbünden, or canton of the Grisons, is mountainous, intersected with romantic valleys, and several rivers, of which the principal are the Rhine, the Inn flowing through the three valleys of the Engadin, the Albula, the Maira, and the Muesa. In the lower region, on the banks of the Rhine, the vine and chesnut prosper; but in the more elevated districts the temperature is very severe. The population is very thin compared with the extent of the country, being only about 75,000, of whom 26,500 are Germans, 10,000 Italians, and 36,700 of the tribe who speak Romansh. It must be recollected, however, that above 1,500 square miles of surface in this canton

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are wholly Alpine and uninhabitable. The constitution is democratic. The Catholic town of Disentiz contains 1,040 inhabitants.-Chur, or Coire, on the Plessur, with 3,350 inhabitants, is the principal town. Malerin Angelica Kauffmann was a native of this town.-Stalla or Bevio is a little town which conducts a considerable commerce of transit between the Engadin and Italy.-Sils, on the Silsersee or Lago di Siglio, is remarkable for the wildness of its surrounding scenery.

CHAP. XIX.-THE CANTON OF AARGAU.

THE Aar, from which the canton of Aargau or Argovia takes its name, intersects the country from S. W. to N. E., and the Jura runs alongst its left banks in the same direction. The climate is mild, and agriculture is well-conducted; but goitres and even cretins occur in some parts of this district. About 76,000 of the inhabitants are Protestants, and 1,700 Jews; the rest are Catholics. The educationary establishments are very good; and there are several societies for useful purposes. The revenue is about 500,000 Swiss francs. Aarau, the chief town, contains 427 houses, with 3,000 inhabitants.-Baden, on the Limmath, has a warm spring of the temperature of 115° 25′ Fahrenheit; and the village of Schintznach, on the Aar, contains another warm spring of 91° temperature. Near the latter village are the ruins of the castle of Habsburg, the ancient seat of the Austrian family.-Königsfelden, formerly an abbey with a chapel, founded in 1308, the spot where the emperor Albrecht was killed by his nephew John of Suabia, is now converted into an asylum for lunatics.-Zofingen, a small town of 1,680 inhabitants, on the Wigger, contains a library founded in 1695, in which are preserved several MSS. of the early Swiss reformers.-Zurzach, a small village on the Rhine, has two annual fairs, much frequented by German and Italian merchants.

CHAP. XX.-THE CANTON OF THURGAU.

THIS district rises in elevation towards the lake of Constance, but nowhere exceeds 2,500 feet. The climate is temperate and soil fertile. Wine, fruit, flax, and oats, are grown in considerable quantities, and there are some manufactures. The inhabitants are of German origin, and speak a Suabian dialect. The Protestants greatly exceed the Catholics in number; but the latter have 5 monasteries and 6 nunneries in this canton. The constitution is democratic: The chief town is Frauenfeld, on the Murg, with 1,800 inhabitants.-Pfyn, on the Thur, with 533 inhabitants, marks the site of a Roman camp.

CHAP. XXI.-THE CANTON OF TESSINO.

The

THIS is one of the most magnificent districts in Switzerland. It consists of deep valleys, which lie much lower than any others in Switzerland, but everywhere present the most lively and frequently sublime scenery. Alps crowned with eternal ice and snow run along the W.N.W. and N. E. The principal river is the Tessin, or Tessino, or Ticino, which flows from the Gotthard to the Lago Maggiore, of which only the northern point be

longs to Switzerland. The climate approaches nearly to that of Italy in the low districts, and produces melons, olives, capons, tobacco, and even silk. Agriculture might be successfully carried on, if the peasantry did not emigrate in such numbers. The whole population are Italian in language, features, and manners; in some districts an Italian corrupted with German is spoken, but the language becomes purer on approaching the lakes. The government is democratic; the people are lively and ingenious, but sunk in Catholic superstition. Lauis or Lugano, a town of 3,444 inhabitants, Bellenz or Bellenzona, and Luggarus or Locarno, are alternately the seat of the supreme government.

CHAP. XXII.-THE CANTON DE VAUD.

THE Waadt, de Vaud, or Pays de Vaud, is one of the finest cantons of Switzerland, abounding in fertile plains and valleys, and presenting some high mountains. The rivers flow towards the Mediterranean and German ocean. The climate is mild and healthy, and this beautiful country attracts visitors from all quarters of the globe. The inhabitants are of Burgundian origin, and speak French; the common people use a patois. There are a number of schools, and a college at Lausanne. The government is democratic. The chief town is Lausanne. This city is remarkable for its romantic situation. It is built upon elevated ground, to which the ascent is so steep, that it is in some places almost inaccessible to any kind of carriage. Foot-passengers ascend to the higher part of the town by steps. The prospect from this place is described as being extremely beautiful. It includes the lake Geneva, and great part of the soft beauties of the Pays de Vaud, contrasted with the Chablais, of which the appearance is rugged and wild. Lausanne, before the Reformation, was the see of a Catholic bishop; the cathedral is a Gothic edifice of considerable magnificence. The number of inhabitants is upwards of 9,000. Avenches, or Wiflisburg, is a small town of 1,100 inhabitants. It marks the site of levell'd Aventicum,' the capital of the ancient Helvetians, which was destroyed by Aulus Cæcinna A. D. 71.—Grandson or Gransee, on the lake of Neufchatel, was the scene of a battle in 1476.-Vevay or Vivis, on the lake of Lucerne, with 3,786 inhabitants, is a beautiful little town. Iverdun or Ifferden, a town on the lake of Neufchatel, is celebrated on account of Pestalozzi's admirable educationary establishment.

CHAP. XXIII.-THE CANTON OF VALAIS.

THIS Country is entirely surrounded by the loftiest ridges of the Alps, which, in the N. W., leave only one small pass through which the Rhone flows, and continues its course through a wide valley towards the lake of Geneva. The Bernese Alps run along the W.; the Lepontine Alps on the E.; and the Pennine on the S. Other ridges intersect the country. The principal rivers are the Rhone, the Lenza, the Saltina, the Visp, the Dranse, and the Pissevache, which comes down from Mount Buet, and forms one of the most beautiful cataracts in Switzerland. The climate varies according to the elevation, but is mildest in the W. The unwholesome air in the marshy valleys occasions frequent fevers, and is probably also the cause of cretinism, which is found more frequently in the Valais than elsewhere.

The people are extremely poor, but raise a considerable quantity of wine and fruit. Among the minerals found here are rock crystals from 50 to 1,400 pounds weight. In the whole Upper Valais, a corrupted German dialect is spoken; in the Under Valais, French; and on the borders of Italy, a bad Italian. The religion is Catholic, and the people, especially in the Under Valais, are wretchedly ignorant. The constitution is democratic. Sien or Sitten, the ancient Sedunum, is the chief town of the Upper or Haut Valais. It is built partly on the right bank of the Rhone, and partly on the river Sitten. It contains 300 houses, and 2,500 inhabitants. Brieg, or Brüg, one of the handsomest towns of the Haut Valais, is situated on the Saltina, opposite to the base of the Simplon. A road from Glüs or Brigg, over the Simplon, to Domo d'Ossola, a distance of 14 leagues, was planned by Napoleon, in 1801, and finished in 1805 at the joint expense of France and Italy, and under the superintendance on the Haut Valais side of French engineers, and on the Italian side by the Cardinal Giovanni Fabbroni. Its breadth throughout was 25 Parisian feet; the number of bridges thrown across the rocks was 50; and so gradual on both sides of the mountains was the inclination of the road that to drag the wheels even of a heavy carriage was needless. This road, however, has been destroyed by order of the Sardinian goverment, in order to strengthen and secure their frontier, so that it is no longer passable. The little village of Simplon is situated 4,548 Parisian or 4,851 English feet above the level of the Mediterranean. Martinach or Martigny, seated at the entrance of the great valley of the Rhone, where the roads from France, Italy, and the Vale of Chamouni meet, was not long ago nearly destroyed by a sudden inundation of the Dranse.

CHAP. XXIV.-THE CANTON OF NEUFCHATEL.

THREE ridges of hills parallel with the Jura on the W. run through this country, which rises gradually, like an amphitheatre, from the lake of Neufchatel on the E. which is 1430 feet above the level of the sea, to the height of 3,840 feet. The rivers are small. The lakes have been already described. The population are of Burgundian origin, and speak French.

Government.] Neufchatel, by a very singular arrangement, stands under the sovereignty of the king of Prussia as an hereditary principality, while, at the same time, it forms a canton of the Swiss confederacy, and the Prussian king, who enjoys only the executive power, is obliged to swear to the constitution of this little country. The legislative power is vested in a representative assembly. This place contains the tomb of Favel the celebrated reformer, and the predecessor of Calvin at Geneva. The population of the principality of Neufchatel and Valangin has wonderfully increased: being in 1752, only 28,017, of whom 4,318 were aliens; in 1784, 31,576, of whom 9,704 were aliens; and in 1826, according to Stein, 52,000.

Chief Towns.] Neuenburg or Neufchatel, on the lake of the same name, contains 4,715 inhabitants. The principality of Valangin contains about 5,640 inhabitants, of whom 380 live in the small town of the same The town of La Chaux de Fond, in the valley of the Jura, contains 5,920 inhabitants, 500 of whom are employed in watch-making.

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