these were not calculated for Spain, and still less for the rest of Europe: they were principally destined for the colonies. The Catalonians are distinguished by a degree of rudeness and violence of temper not common among their countrymen. They are enthusiastically attached to their country; and are an active, laborious, and enterprising race. Catalonia was one of the first provinces of Spain conquered by the Romans; and one of the last they lost. The Goths were expelled by the Moors; and these in their turn conquered by the Franks under Charlemagne ; after which the province taking the name of Godolaunia, from the Goths and Alans its ancient inhabitants, preserved its laws, customs, and prerogatives, even when its rulers had mounted the throne of Arragon, and Ferdinand the Catholic had become master of the whole of Spain. It was only in 1714, when Catalonia ranked itself with the Austrian party, that most of its privileges were lost. There are 14 cividades, 283 towns, 1,683 villages, 1682 parishes, 201 monasteries, 54 nunneries, 81 establishments of charity, and 304 ruined places in this province. City of Barcelona.] Barcelona, in Latin Barcino, is the capital of Catalonia, and one of the principal cities in Spain. It was founded by the Carthaginians who gave it the name of their renowned general, Annibal Barca; and it successively passed under the dominion of the Romans, Goths, Saracens, and French. It contains at present 10,000 houses, 1 cathedral, 82 churches, 50 convents of monks, 30 fountains, 6 hospitals, 1 seminary, 4 academies supported by voluntary contribution, 2 public libraries, a valuable cabinet of natural history and antiquities, a noble exchange 230 feet long by 77 broad, a theatre, a great many handsome promenades or walks, and with the suburb of Barcellonetta upwards of 140,000 inhabitants. It is the seat of an episcopal see, which contains in its diocese 26 chapels and 253 parishes. The streets of the old town are in general dirty, narrow, and crooked; those of the new town are regularly built and elegant. The city is fortified, and is impregnable on the sea-side, the water being too shallow to permit the approach of large ships. On the land-side it is guarded with bastions, the approaches to which are defended by many advanced works, and principally by a citadel situated at the N. E. point, and by the fort of Mont Jouy; which commands the town, port, citadel, neighbouring country, and sea to a great extent. The ancient port of Barcelona was on the other side of Mont Jouy, behind that mountain, which separated it from the sea, and was formed and sheltered by a mole built in 1477; but this port was choked up and the mole destroyed by storms in the 16th century. The present port is nothing more than a great basin formed by piers and kept up by solid quays. The depth is insensibly declining in spite of every endeavour to clear out the accumulating sand. Large ships cannot enter, and frigates cannot approach within half-a-league's distance; however, in spite of such inconveniencies, the harbour is always full of shipping. The manufactures are silk, cotton, wool, fire-arms, cutlery, and glass-ware. The principal exports are wine, brandy, cloth, and leather. The imports corn, fish, and woollen goods. City of Gerona.] Gerona, in French Girone, in Latin Gerunda, is a fortified town of Catalonia, situated on both banks of the river Ter; and upon the side; and at the foot of a steep mountain. It is of a triangular form; and its population amounts to 14,000 persons. This city is very ancient, having existed in the time of the Romans, from whom it was taken by the Goths; the Moors seized it, in 715; and it was re-taken by Louis of Aquitania in 802 when all the Moors were put to death. It afterwards became subject to the crown of Arragon, and gave the title of prince to the king's eldest son. It was taken by the French in 1656, and lost again in 1694. In the Succession war, it was seized by the French, but recovered from them in 1705, by the Miquelets or Catalonian mountaineers. It was again taken by the French in 1711; and in the year following was besieged by the Asturians and Catalonians who were compelled to abandon the enterprise after a blockade of eight months. During the late glorious struggle for Spanish independence, it made one of the noblest defences recorded in history. The garrison consisted of 3,400 men; the besieging army of 17,000. Another army of 18,000 men covered the siege, which commenced on the 6th of May 1809, and continued till the 10th of December, when the garrison, reduced to a mere handful, obtained an honourable capitulation. City of Tarragona.] Tarragona, the ancient Tarraco and capital of Hispania Tarraconensis under the Romans, is said to have been once the most considerable city in Spain, but has vastly declined from its ancient grandeur, containing only 9000 inhabitants at the commencement of the late war. It was besieged and taken, after a siege of two months, and an obstinate defence, by marshal Suchet, who perpetrated the most atrocious cruelties upon the wretched inhabitants ever recorded in history. The harbour is one of the best in Catalonia; and the environs are very charming and fertile. There are here the ruins of a palace of Augustus, an amphitheatre, a magnificent aqueduct and catacombs. Chief Towns.] Reuss a town created in the last quarter of the 18th century, has already 30,000 inhabitants, and maintains some very animated silk-manufactories, and numerous distilleries.-Tortosa with 10,700 inhabitants, is strongly fortified; the neighbourhood is rich in alabaster and marble, of which the beautiful species called Jaspir of Tortosa is found here.-Lerida is a fortified town on the Segre with 16,800 inhabitants. It was here that Cæsar fought for the dominion of the world with Pompey's generals Afranius and Petreius.-Cervera with 5000 inhabitants, contains a university founded in 1717 with a magnificent library.-Montserrat, a convent of Benedictines, built on a calcareous rock 3,937 feet high, is remarkable for its celebrated image of the Virgin. Above the convent are 14 hermitages built above each other on the mountain. Numerous pilgrims visit the image of the virgin which is said to have been found here in 880. The Virgin of Montserrat has also churches at Madrid, Rome, and Vienna, REPUBLIC OF ANDORRA.] The Valle de Andorra at the foot of the Pyrenees in this province, has always been considered as a neutral territory, acknowledging the bishop of Urgel as spiritual chief, and paying him annually 480 franks; but since very ancient times it has stood under the protection of France, having sworn allegiance to him by deputies. The king of France and the bishop of Urgel name alternately the supreme judge of Andorra; but otherwise this little territory, not exceeding 180 square miles of surface, is an independent republic, in which the legislative and executive powers are exercised by a council. It has its particular laws, and pays no taxes. The population is about 10,500. CHAP. VIII.-THE KINGDOM OF NAVARRE. THE kingdom of Navarre had in ancient times its own kings, who also held sway over considerable lands on the other side of the Pyrenees. In 1512 Ferdinand the Catholic conquered the Spanish part of Navarre, which was thereafter called Upper Navarre to distinguish it from the French part called Lower Navarre. But it was neither united to Arragon nor to Castile, and has therefore always been considered as a different kingdom. It lies close to the foot of the Pyrenees, from which the Sierra de Andia, the Bardenna del Rey, and the Higa de Monreal run into this country. The principal river is the Ebro which receives several tributary streams. The Bidassoa rises here and runs north into Guipuscoa. The climate is temperate and healthy; frequent rains refresh the air and preserve a beautiful verdure on the meadows and pastures during the whole year. Corn is extensively raised, and the wines are considered as being among the best in Spain. Oil is produced in the neighbourhood of Tudela and Tafalla, and also flax and hemp which are particularly good. The forests furnish timber and chesnuts. The rearing of cattle is considerable. The rivers have abundance of fish, and game is plentiful in the mountains, which are also inhabited by a particular kind of wild cat, standing 15 inches in height, and 30 inches long, which is very fierce and very destructive to the flocks. The commerce is animated; particularly that of transit and smuggling with France. Three roads lead across the Pyrenees in this province: viz. 1st. A very difficult road through the valley of Baztan, by Maya, to Bayonne, 2d. The Rolands road by the valley of Roncesvalles to Jean Pied de Port; and 3d. One by the valley of Aezcoa to Larun. The inhabitants are Basques and speak the Baskish language; they are a bold, vigorous race of men; distinguished by industry, skill, and spirited manners, but violent and quarrelsome in the extreme. In language, manners, and character they bear a strong likeness to the inhabitants of the Baskish provinces; but the early loss of their independence has effaced several of the national features of the ancient Cantabrians. There are 9 cividades, 159 towns, 630 villages, 763 parishes, 49 monasteries, 26 nunneries, and 14 establishments of charity in Navarre. Chief Towns.] Pampeluna on the Agra is the chief town. Its population is 14,000.-Estella on the Ega in a fertile country, has 4,600 inhabitants, and some manufactures.-The valley of Roncesvalles, between the Pyrenees and one of their branches, the Montes de los Alduides, is celebrated as having been the scene of the battle in which Roland and twelve peers of France fell. CHAP. IX.-THE BASKISH PROVINCES AND COLONIES. THE three provinces of Biscay, Guipuscoa, and Alava, on the northern coast of Spain, which formed the ancient Cantabria are now called the Baskish provinces. The population amounts to 310,758. The inhabitants speak a peculiar language, and differ in customs and manners from those of the rest of Spain. United since the 13th and 14th centuries to the crown of Castile, they nevertheless preserved their peculiar laws and provincial representation till within a very recent period. By the ancient constitution, no bishop could establish his metropolitan seat in these provinces, and no taxes could be imposed upon the inhabitants. With these prerogatives, and the enjoyment of a country peculiarly favoured by nature, the inhabitants here became the most active, industrious, and wealthy in Spain; but a royal ordonnance of the 25th May 1805, deprived them of most of their ancient privileges. The Province of Biscay or Vizcaya.] The surface of Biscay is everywhere surrounded with high mountains; the Cantabrian chain spreads in several branches over it, of which the pyramidal Serrantes are the most remarkable. The scenery is wild but not unpleasant; the soil is stony but fertile in the open valleys. Numerous streams rush down from the mountains into the Bay of Biscay, which indents the land with several small basins, and breaks its impetuous waves against different promontories, among which those of Machichaco and Ogonno are the principal. The chief river is the Bilbao or Ybaichalval which is formed by several small ones, and is navigable to Bilboa; another coast-river is the Cadagun. There are some small mountain-lakes and mineral springs. The climate is temperate; the air pure, healthy, and bracing. Agriculture is well-managed, although no animals can be used in the plough. Every thing is done by the hands of men, who even carry the manure up the steep rocks on their backs, and thus create a fertile soil in places otherwise only accessible to the chamois. However, the corn grown is not sufficient for the consumption; fishing is a principal branch of industry; sea-fish, oysters and mussels are sent from the coasts of Biscay through the whole country. This province produces the best iron in Spain, and in so great quantity that Antillon estimates the annual produce of the mine of Samorrostra at 800,000 cwt. Wool is an important article of commerce. The ancient language of Cantabria is nowhere spoken with greater purity than in Ordunna and Bilboa, but the only known compositions in the language are some hymns and psalms sung by the pilgrims of St Jago. The Biscayan is clever, but vain to a proverb of his personal graces. Wealth is very generally diffused here; but there are no rich convents, and the clergy live in a state of great poverty almost bordering upon mendicity. The abbot of Zenaruzza, the richest abbey in the whole province, has only 1500 florins a year. There are 1 cividade, and 20 villas in this province. The inhabitants chiefly live in isolated houses. There are 165 parishes, 32 monasteries, 19 nunneries, and 14 establishments of charity. Chief Towns.] Ordunna, with 4,000 inhabitants, is the chief town. Bilboa, a town in a narrow valley, on the river of the same name, with * 15,000 inhabitants, is one of the most important and animated places of commerce in the north of Spain. There are above 200 commercial houses here, among which the British and Bohemian merchants transact a great deal of business. The principal articles of exportation are wool, of which 50,000 or 60,000 bags are annually exported, iron, chesnuts, and timber; about 160,000 tons of stock-fish and 6,000 tons of fish-oil are also yearly sent from here into the interior of the kingdom. This town, however, has nothing deserving the name of a harbour. Small vessels come up the river; others remain at Portugalete, or Olavijaja, and their are brought to Bilboa in lighters. Durango with 2,800 inhabitants is famous for a manufactory of sword blades. cargoes 2d. The Province of Guipuscoa.] The scenery of this small province is very picturesque and romantic. High mountains, partly barren, and partly covered with ever-green forests, run out from the Pyrenees, and spread over the whole country. The Cantabrian ridge, to which belong the elevated Jaitzquibel, and the Alzanja, over which the great high road of the Romans was conducted, takes its rise in this province. The Cabo de Higuera and the Cabo San Antonio belong to this coast, besides numerous small bays which form excellent harbours; but none of the rivers are navigable, and all have a very short course. The soil is rocky; the climate is very mild and healthy, and there is no want of rain, which preserves the fresh verdure of the fields, Thunder-storms frequently occur in December and January. Among the Guipuscoans it is not rare to find men of 90 and 100 years of age. Fishing is the chief occupation of the inhabitants of the coast; they supply Alava, Navarre, and a part of Castile and Arragon, with sea-fish. The principal inland industry is confined to the working of iron. The inhabitants have nothing of the gloomy and repulsive gravity of the Castilians; notwithstanding the roughness and simplicity of their manners, honesty, benevolence, gallantry, and industry, are prominent features of their character. They are fond of games which require bodily strength and exertion, in which even their women join them. They are passionately fond of dancing, particularly of their national dance the Zorcico; but their principal amusement is a kind of bull-fight, called Novillos. There are 2 cividades, 65 villas, 17 villages, 120 parishes, 13 monasteries, 26 nunneries, and 14 establishments of charity in Guiposcoa. Chief Towns.] Tolosa, with 4,200 inhabitants, is stated to be the capital. St Sebastian is a sea-port town containing 12,000 inhabitants, with a good trade and a well-frequented harbour. It is situated at the foot of a mountain which rises in the form of a sugar-loaf. A castle is built upon this lofty height, which, from the steepness of the ascent is almost impregnable and inaccessible. The town is also very strongly fortified, and the harbour is secured by two moles. The houses are neat, the churches handsome, and the environs pleasant. The trade is so great, and the city so populous in proportion to its extent, that several families are obliged to dwell in the same house. The trade consists chiefly in iron and steel said to be the best in Europe. This place is extremely important in a military and political point of view, as it is in a great measure the key of Spain on the western side of the Pyrenees; and, on account of its strength and importance, is esteemed the Gibraltar of the north of Spain. It was taken on the 1st of August 1794 by the French. It was again seized by Napoleon, and was retaken, after a long siege and gallant defence, by the allies under lord Lynedoch.-Fuente Rabbia, with 1,700 inhabitants, is a small fortress on the Bidassoa, close to the French boundaries. A ferry here crosses the Bidassoa, and, according to treaty, the river being neutral, Spain draws the ferry-duty from the travellers coming from France, and France from those coming from Spain.-At Mondragon, a town of 2,400 inhabitants, the rich iron-mines above mentioned are situated. Salinas, on the Deva, has a salt-work which produces 20,000 cwt. a year.-La Isla de los Faisanes, is an island in the Bidassoa, celebrated in history for the peace of the Pyrenees, which was concluded here in 1659. 3d. The Province of Alava.] The surface of Alava is everywhere covered with high mountains running out from the Pyrenees; the Cantabrian ridge forms the boundaries between this province, Biscay, and Guipuscoa; in the E. rise the Aras Montanna; in the S. W. the Sierra de 11. 2 P |