Missolonghi.] Missolonghi is a fortified town on the gulf of Lepanto. The various fortunes of this fortress, and the great carnage which has taken place in attacking or defending it since the commencement of the Greek war, show the consequence which both the contending parties have attached to its possession. It was taken from the Turks towards the end of 1821. It was defended in the following year by Prince Mavrocordato against a large Turkish force, which was finally obliged to raise the siege and retreat in disorder. Having remained in undisturbed occupation of the Greeks for more than a year, it became the seat of government for Western Greece, and received within its walls that extraordinary apostle and martyr of the Greek cause Lord Byron, who conferred upon it additional renown by his death, in the spring of 1824. Some month's after his Lordship's death, the siege of the fortress was renewed by the Turks, who assembled round its walls a large force from Albania. The siege was prolonged by the obstinate resistance of the Greeks for more than a year, and the place was not taken till after the arrival of a body of Egyptians under Ibrahim Pasha, in the end of 1825.-It was subsequently recaptured by the Greeks.

CHAP. XIIL-THE PELOPONNESUS OR MOREA.

Name.] The Morea, the country of Nestor and Leonidas, of Philopomen and Aratus, has borne a variety of names, on the origin of all of which we need not here enter. It received the name of Peloponnesus from Pelops, the son of Tantalus king of Phrygia. M. Pouqueville contends that the appellation Morea was derived from Oraa, 'the beautiful;' but the more her ægis or shield-which lay at her feet-the war of the gods and giants, and the battle of the Athenians and Amazons. The cost of the whole temple, exclusive of the gold, has been estimated at £1,500,000. The Parthenon remained entire for many ages after it was deprived of its goddess. The Christians converted it into a church, and the Mahommedans into a mosque. It is mentioned in the letters of Crussius, who miscalled it the Pantheon, the temple of the unknown God.' The Venetians, under Koningsmark, when they besieged the Acropolis in 1687, threw a bomb which demolished the roof, and, setting fire to some powder, did much damage to the fabric. This was the sad forerunner of farther destruction.-To the N. of the Parthenon, at the distance of 160 feet, stood the Erechtheium. This building was double, a partition wall dividing it into two temples which fronted different ways. One was the temple of Pandrosus, the other of Minerva Polias. The latter was entered by a square portico connected with a marble screen which fronted towards the Propylea. The door of the cell was on the left hand; and at the farther end of the passage was a door leading down into the Pandroseium. The proportions of the Erechtheium were small, being only 63 feet by 36, and not 20 in height. The Pandroseium was a small but very singular building, of which no satisfactory idea can be conveyed by description. The entablature was supported by Caryatides, one of which is now in the British Museum.-Without the Peiraic gate was a cenotaph to Euripides; immediately within it stood the Pompeion,-a building set apart for the arrangement of processions. To the right was placed the Pnyr,-a place in which certain popular assemblies were held; the road continued on till it passed the Stoa Basileus, in which the archon held his court. Hence the street of Hermæ terminated in a Stoa named Pacile from its pictures. The Agora, planted with plane-trees, and divided into markets and streets, fronted the Pocile. The Areopagus or Hill of Mars so called because Mars was the first person here tried,-sloped down from it towards the N., to a plainer site, on which stood the temple of Theseus. The Theseium still existing is a peripteral hexastyle, with 13 columns on the sides. The cell is 40 feet in length and 20 in breadth; the order is Doric. It is formed entirely of Pentelic marble, and seems to have suggested the model of the Parthenon. To the S. E. of the Agora stood the Prytaneium or senate-house. After passing through a gateway, erected by Hadrian in the modern walls, the Temple of Jupiter Olympus appears. It contained a colossal ivory and gold statue of the god. The whole length of the sacred precinct was 689 feet. The temple was decastyle, and consisted of 124 columns, of which only 16 are now standing.

common opinion is that this country derived its name from the great number of mulberry-trees which are found in it. It is true that the exotic species of mulberry which composes one branch of the riches of the Morea is vulgarly called in the present day sycaminos, although this name was certainly applied in ancient times to the sycamore; but the indigenous or black mulberry (Rubus sylvestris, L.) is nowhere more common than here, and has certainly given its name to the country.

Boundaries and Extent.] The Morea is situated between 36° 29′ and 38° 30′ of N. Lat., and between 21° 30′ and 23° 32′ of E. Long. It is bounded on the N. by the gulf of Lepanto; on the E. by that part of the Ægean called the sea of Myrtos; on the S. by the Mediterranean; and on the W. by the Adriatic. Its greatest length is from N.W. to S.E., that is from cape Papas or Palée to cape Malos or Saint Angelo; its greatest breadth, from Modon on the S.W. to cape Franco or Speree on the N.E. The configuration of its coasts presents the form of a platanaleaf of which the petiole is the isthmus of Corinth. Following the irregular outline formed by its numerous gulfs and bays, we trace a circumference of 200 leagues, inclosing an area of 8,950 English square miles, with a population according to Pouqueville of 240,000 Greeks (including 60,000 Mainottes), 40,000 Turks, and 4,000 Jews; but this, and every other calculation respecting the population of Greece is merely approximative, and may be very incorrect, especially after the events of the revolutionary war, by which the Turkish population has been expelled.

Mountains.] The Morea, like the rest of Greece, presents numerous distinct mountain-ridges of which mount Zeria or Trikala, the ancient Cyllene, may be regarded as the culminating point, and in Dr Holland's opinion, is one of the loftiest ridges in Greece. It surrounds the famous lake Stymphale, the scene of one of Hercules's exploits. Arcadia is a lofty central platform in the Morea, supported by mountain-buttresses. The mountains of Lycæus and Menalus, upon which Apollo mourned the loss of Daphnis, form one of the principal plateaus of Arcadia. They are covered with magnificent trees, amongst which the oak is remarkable for the extraordinary height to which it attains, and the Andrachne for its polished trunk. Mount Olenos runs out to the N.W. and terminates in the triple rock of Santa-Mari; its branches, mounts Erymanthos and Philo are covered with shady forests, and its permanent snows give birth to the river Vostitza, the ancient Jomenus. Mount Taygetus, a very lofty and magnificent range, runs along the western flank of the Vassili-Potamos or Eurotas river, and terminates at cape Matapan. A range of mountains to the right of Zeria, including mounts Polyphurgos, Stephanos, and Sophico form the ancient territory of Argolis. These mountains are everywhere traversed by narrow defiles impracticable to artillery or cavalry. Mount Geranion is a range running across the isthmus of Corinth and rising to the height of 2,500 feet. The valleys of the Morea are immense basins surrounded by the mountains, exhibiting the appearance of a great number of distinct craters, each containing a spacious level area fitted for the abode of a separate community. This feature of the Morea led Dr Clarke to compare its surface to a number of saucers with broken lips, placed together on a table. There are no Greek or Roman roads perceivable in the Morea, but only Turkish causeways about two feet and a half in breadth leading over the low marshy spots; these are thought sufficient for the horses of the soldiery and the asses of the peasantry, who seldom use any wheel carriages.

Rivers.] Of the waters which descend from the mountains of the Morea, some precipitate themselves into the gulf of Lepanto and the Ionian sea, and others into the Mediterranean and Ægean. The northern valley are watered by the Calavrita or Cerynite, the Acrato-Potamos or Crathis, and the Mauroneso or Styx. Several marshes adapted to the cultivation of rice are found among the surrounding mountains. The Acrato-Potamos descends from the mountain of the same name; in winter its waters present a very formidable torrrent. The Mauroneso descends in a series of cataracts from the most elevated and abrupt plateau of Cyllene. The Camenitza or Melas flows through a beautiful valley into the gulf of Patras. The Potami-Ton-Gastounion or Penee Eleen descends from the southern declivity of Olenos, and flows towards the Mediterranean through a country highly fertile in lint. The Roufias, the amorous Alpheus of the ancients, separates the canton of Gastouni the ancient Phocis, from that of Fanari the northern point of old Messenia. This river is formed by the confluence of three streams coming from Arcadia. The Vassili-Potamos, whose waters are fabled to have borne Leda's swan, flows from the N. towards the S. with an inclination eastwards to the gulf of Colocynthia.

Productions.] The Morea is the most fertile province of Greece. Its productions are oil, rye, honey, wax, raisins, gall-nuts, cotton, kermes, tobacco, silk, wool, and lint. Its pasture-lands are excellent, and the shepherds of Arcadia still keep watch over beautiful flocks. The fisheries too on the coast are well-conducted, and salted fish forms a principal article of exportation.

Topography.] The Morea is divided into four provinces, Chiarenza, Belvidere, Tzakonia, and Romania Major.-Chiarenza includes all Achaia Propria: its principal towns are Caminitza, Triti, and Saraoalle all very small places.-Belvidere comprises within its limits the ancient Elis and Messenia. The principal towns in this province are Chiarenza, (the ancient Cylene) Gastouni, a thriving town with a castle and about 3,000 inhabitants; Caliva, the ancient Elis; Belvidere, a considerable town and delightfully situated; Arcadia, situated on a bay of the same name.— The town and harbour of Navarino lying at the S.W. corner of the Morea. It is of a circular form, with an island lying across the mouth of it. The entrance is by the S. end of the island, where the passage is 600 yards wide. The island is 2 miles long and a quarter of a mile broad. The basin is 6 miles in circumference. The port of Navarino is the ancient harbour of Pylus. In the 7th year of the Peloponnesian war, Demosthenes, the Athenian general, seized and fortified Pylus. A Spartan army immediately besieged him there, and part of them passed over to the island, then called Sphacteria, for the purpose of completely blockading him, while the fleet watched the entrances of the harbour. An Athenian fleet, at last, entering the harbour, by both mouths, attacked the Spartan fleet lying within, and destroyed the whole of it. The Spartans on the island being cut off from all assistance, surrendered prisoners at discretion to the Athenians. The battle here betwixt the Turkish and combined fleets of Britain, France, and Russia, was fought on the anniversary of the great battle of Salamis, wherein the Greeks defeated the Persian fleet,-the 20th of October, 480, B.C. 2306 years before.-Modon, the ancient Methone, is a fortified town with a good harbour and some trade.-Coron, situated near the gulf of the same name, is a small but well-fortified place, and the see of an archbishop.-Calamatia is a considerable but open town.-The

province of Tzakonia includes the ancient Arcadia and Lacónia: its principal towns are the following-Misitra, in the vicinity of which are the ruins of the ancient Sparta, is delightfully situated at the foot of mount Taygetus, and is defended by a castle. It contains a celebrated church and is the see of an archbishop-population about 4,000.-MalvasisVecchia or Malvasia is a small town situated on an island connected with the continent by a bridge, and protected by a strong citadel. The neighbourhood of this place produces the celebrated wine called Malvoisia or Malmsey.-Maina is the capital of a district of the same name lying N. of cape Matapan, and inhabited by the warlike race called Mainotes, by some supposed to be the descendants of the Spartans; it is more probable, however, that they are sprung from some Sclavonian tribe.-Tripolitza, formerly the capital of the Morea, is situated in a narrow valley at the foot of mount Mænalus, and is fortified with a stone wall and a small square fort. The houses are very mean, and the streets, with the exception of the principal one, very dirty, and paved only in the middle. It has an inconsiderable trade in corn and wool, and contained previous to the revolution about 12,000 inhabitants.-The province of Romania Major comprehends the ancient Corinth, Sicyon, and Argos; the following are its principal towns.-Corinth, situated near the isthmus to which it gives name, on the northern declivity of mount Phouka, and looking down on the gulf of Lepanto, was anciently one of the most powerful and magnificent cities of Greece, richly adorned with splendid structures, from the style of which one of the orders of architecture takes its name. The ancient walls, in circuit about two miles, can still be traced, but the most interesting monument of antiquity remaining is the citadel, or Acro-Corinthos.-Corinth is now but a small town containing about 2,000 inhabitants. The houses however are commodious and well built, particularly those in the market-place. Anciently it had two harbours, one on the gulf of Corinth or Lepanto, the other on the Egean sea. principal port, the other anciently called Cenchrea is Corinth is the seat of a metropolitan and a bishop. of Athens.-Patras is a seaport town situated on a pleasant eminence at the entrance of the gulf of Lepanto. It is well situated for commerce, being a central station for the coast of Livadia, the Ionian isles, and the northern part of the Morea. It carries on a considerable trade in currants, oil, wine, honey, wax, silk, and skins,-and consuls reside here from the principal maritime states in Europe. It is the see of an archbishop, and was said to contain previous to the revolution about 4,000 inhabitants.Napoli di Romania or Nauplia, the modern capital of the Morea, was built by Nauplias the son of Neptune and Amymone. The remains of its ancient walls still exist, also the temple of Neptune, the port, and the fount Canathus. It is the best built town in the Morea, has a spacious and secure harbour, and is strongly fortified. It had a population of about 6,000, chiefly Turks, but these last having lately been expelled by the Greeks, its present population like that of all the other Greek towns is quite uncertain. It is the see of an archbishop, and conducts a considerable trade. Epidaurus is a small town at the recess of the gulf of Argos; it is naturally strong and is provided with a tolerable port. Its situation is particularly beautiful.-Argos, which with its territory anciently constituted a kingdom of the Peloponnesus, is situated on the Nacho, the ancient Nachus, and has a citadel.

The former is still the

now little frequented. It is 48 miles S.W.

CHAP. XIV. THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO.

1. THE CYCLADES.

THE islands of the Archipelago are divided by geographers into the Cyclades and Sporades. The Cyclades are a numerous group of islands to the S.W. of the Sporades, and E. of the Morea, disposed in a circle around the island of Paros. Of this group Naxos is the largest; Andros the most northern; and Santorin the most southern.

Santorin.] The island of Santorin or Santorini is situated in 36° 25′ N. lat. and 26° 1' E. long. It was anciently called Kallisto, and also Thera. Herodotus, Pausanias, and Strabo, inform us that Theras, a descendant of Cadmus, who had governed Sparta during the minority of his nephew, the son of Aristodemus, having thereafter crossed over to the island of Callisto, which was then inhabited by a people of the same origin as himself, with the aid of the Minyans who accompanied him, made himself master of the island, and bestowed upon it his own name. This Lacedæmonian colony afterwards fell into the hands of the Athenians. This island exhibits numerous volcanic appearances, and seems to have once composed the crater of a vast burning mountain. The soil is less sterile, however, than first appearances indicate; it produces barley, wheat, and legumes. Among the fruit-trees the fig and the almond are the most common, and the vines afford an excellent wine, which forms the principal source of revenue, and of which about 300,000 gallons are annually exported. The population is about 12,000 souls; and the island is considered the richest and most populous of the Archipelago, in proportion to its extent. There are five small towns upon this island. Santorin is surrounded by several small islands bearing the marks of volcanic origin. That of Cameni or Hiera, we are informed by Justin, was elevated above the surface of the sea by an earthquake which occurred A. M. 3804. Another small island called Thia first appeared during the reign of Claudius, but soon afterwards sunk again under the waters. In 1373 a new eruption gave existence to the islet called Micra-Cameni; and in 1707 another formed the island called Nea-Cameni.

Nanphio.] The Argonauts on their return from Colchis are said to have discovered the island of Nanfio, to which they gave the name of Anaphe. It is a small island to the E. of Santorin. The soil is good but poorly cultivated, and the whole population is concentrated in one wretched little town.

Stampalia.] To the S.E. of Naxos, in 36° 30′ of N. lat. lies the island of Stampalia or Astypale, also called Pyrra, Pyle, and Theon-trapeza, or 'the table of the gods.' This latter appellation was bestowed upon it on account of the fertility of the soil, and the abundance of the flowers and rich plants which everywhere covered it. The inhabitants are few in number, but are remarkably polished in their manners. are abundant around the coast.

Fish

Amorgos.] To the N.W. of Stampalia lies the island of Amorgos, anciently called Pataga and Hypera, the birth-place of Simonides. It consists of two large mountains, which are in many spots covered with the Scilla maritima, but affords no timber. The inhabitants use a species of Lycia for fuel. In the strait formed between the islands of Amorgos, Naxos, and Nio, we find the islets of Karos or Cheiro, Skinosa or Schino