A. Metal pins attached by straps on the foreside of the rudder, which turn in rudder braces.

Q. What is the gulleting of a rudder?

A. Scores cut below and behind the pintles, to allow the rudder to be shipped and unshipped.

Q. What is the apron of a boat?

A. A strong piece of timber fitted in the inner side of the stem to which it is fastened with bolts. (See No. 2, Fig 35, page 210.)

Q. What are deadwoods?

A. Blocks of timber used as filling pieces, fitted against the sternpost on the after end of the keel, and on the inner side of the stem on the forward end of the keel.

Q. What are cant frames?

A. Frames in the fore and after body of a boat which are canted, and are not in line with the square body frames and the keel.

Q. What are floors (frame floors)?

A. The lowermost of the pieces of which square body frames. are constructed and cross the keel.

Q. Describe the best method for making repairs to a boat which has a hole punched through the planking, without hoisting the boat out of the water. Describe the making of permanent repairs in this case.

A. See page 214.

Q. Describe the method of taking the spiling of a plank for a boat.

A. See page 212.

Q. Describe the method for taking measurements for the planking of a boat.

A. See page 213.

Q. What material is used for calking the seams of small boats?

A. Roven cotton.

Q. What is the unit of measurement of lumber?

A. A "board foot" which is a foot square and 1 inch thick, or 144 cubic inches.

Q. What is the rule for finding the number of board feet in a piece of lumber?

A. Multiply width by thickness in inches, multiply the product thus found by the length in feet and divide by 12.

Q. What is the difference between a hand rip saw and a hand cross-cut saw?

A. A rip saw has teeth spread a little at the point for clearance, the faces of the teeth are filed at right angles to the saw, the teeth are chisel shaped and have very little set; this saw is used for ripping. The teeth of a cross-cut saw are given clearance by very decided set to opposite directions on every other tooth, the faces of the teeth are filed at an angle of about 45° to the blade alternately; the cutting part of the teeth are the sides of the points; this saw is used for cutting off across the grain.

Q. Describe a back saw and its use.

A. A saw with thin blades and fine teeth, has a stiffening piece on the back; it is used in miter boxes and for cutting off light work where close joints are required.

Q. Describe a miter box and its use.

A. A miter box is an open-ended box or frame with saw cuts made into the sides at an angle of 45° to be used as a guide for the saw in cutting miters.

Q. Describe the following planes and their uses:

A. Block plane is a short, narrow plane used for smoothing across the end grain of wood; a jack plain is about 14 inches long, used for roughing off or first cuts; a smooth plane is about 8 inches long, used for smoothing the surfaces of wood; a fore plane is about 20 inches long, used for jointing and straightening up edges.

Q. Describe a bevel and its use.

A. A tool similar to a try-square, only that the blade is adjustable, and may be set to any angle.

Q. Name the three parts of a wooden door.

A. Stiles, rails and panels.

Q. What material is considered best for pattern-making, and why?

A. White pine, because it has a smooth grain, works easier, and shrinks and warps less when drying than other woods.

Q. What allowances are made in making patterns? Describe each.

A. Allowances are made for shrinkage and finish. (See page 216 for further data on pattern-making.)

Q. What is meant by "draft" of a pattern, and how much is usually allowed for it?

A. Draft is a slight taper given a pattern so that it may be more easily drawn from the mold. Ordinarily about inch to the foot is allowed.

Q. Describe the process of filing the various hand saws used by wood workers.

A. See page 222.

CHAPTER IV.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SHIP FITTERS.

CARE AND PRESERVATION OF PORTABLE FITTINGS, SUCH AS BOAT DAVITS, LIFE LINE STANCHIONS, ETC.

All portable fittings such as boat davits, anchor davits, life line and awning stanchions, etc., should, when overhauled, have working parts thoroughly cleaned of rust and paint, and be well slushed with a heavy grease, such as Albany grease and graphite mixed, or tallow and white lead. A good opportunity for work of this kind is when ship is cleared for action at target practice, or admiral's inspection. These fittings, to insure their being kept in good working order, should be overhauled every three months if possible, and by all means in less than six months.

Much care should be exercised in doing this kind of work to prevent grease from getting on the wooden decks; a good plan is to have an old piece of canvas to work on.

RED-LEAD GUN AND ITS USES.

A red-lead gun is a cylindrical piece of steel or brass about 10 inches long, bored about 1 inches in diameter, with a plunger to fit inside, operated by a bolt threaded full length through a nut or cap on one end of cylinder. This cylinder has a point on the other end, threaded to fit a standard machine tap of about inch, or pipe tap of convenient size; through this point is a small hole about inch or inch in diameter. This tool is used for forcing red lead between plates to stop leaks that cannot be conveniently calked. To operate it, a hole is drilled near the leaks, and tapped to fit the point. Screw the point in tight, remove plunger and screw cap, and fill gun with red lead, mixed to the consistency of soft red-lead putty. In fact, the stiffness of the lead depends largely on the space to

be filled; if it is very much open, the lead should be as stiff as can be driven; and if close, of course thinner. Screw on plunger cap and force the lead through and behind the plate by screwing in the plunger bolt. Great pressure can be obtained by this process, forcing red lead into every crevice and often stopping leaks on which all other attempts have failed.

CALKING.

No attempt should be made to calk where rivets are not spaced for water-tight work. Have edge of top plate beveled. Use fuller first-which is a round-nose tool, slightly bent near the end; drive the lower edge of top plate, the thickness of the fuller, down hard on the bottom plate. Then next use a straight-faced calking tool, also bent near end, with a flat face at bottom, which, when resting on bottom plate, brings angular corner or edge in direct line with the seam; the curve near the end of this tool prevents it from cutting the lower plate. The object of this tool is to set the metal of the upper plate hard down on the lower plate. Care should be taken not to drive this tool too hard, which would raise the edge of the upper plate, thereby loosening the surrounding calking.

When fittings, such as pad-eyes, etc., exposed to the weather, run rust, this may be stopped sometimes by calking well all around the fitting; to do this, all paint should be removed from around the fitting, and the clean metals calked together. Where the plate to which the fitting is fastened is too thin to admit of calking, the fitting should be taken off and a stopwater (canvas soaked in red lead) put behind it. Care should be taken in putting on new fittings to always paint well the fitting, and the place to which it is to be fastened.

All calking shall be done in the most thorough manner, metal to metal. Care shall be taken in calking staples around beveled channels to avoid leakage due to irregularities caused by beveling.