Εικόνες σελίδας
PDF
Ηλεκτρ. έκδοση

claimed the French mariner, on first beholding it, and hence, with a little corruption, we derive its modern name. The scenery down the river, the eye resting upon the Isle of Orleans, and the landscape enlivened as we now beheld it, with numerous large vessels under crowded canvass, formed altogether a splendid picture. Shall I confess that in passing "Wolfe's Cove," the achievement of our hero lost somewhat of the romantic hue with which early fancy had been wont to paint it? The ascent did not exactly appear so formidable as I had expected. When I visited the spot, however, and examined it more closely, I was better enabled to appreciate the difficulties to be surmounted in mastering such a ravine with troops and cannon during the night. I feel persuaded that my first impression and slight disappointment may be traced to the wide expanse of the river, and the magnificent scale of the scenery around.

Upon reaching the quay we found still many formidable relics of winter. The ice upon which we stepped ashore was fully ten feet thick, and huge masses of it lay scattered along the beach. Whatever inducements Quebec may hold out to the stranger, comfortable hotels are assuredly not of the number. Mr J., of the house of Gates and Company at Montreal, upon whom I had a credit, was a fellow-passenger, as also Mr H. of the Upper Province, with both of whom, having formed an intimacy, I accompanied them to a boarding-house in the upper town. Our accommodations fell considerably short of what might have been reasonably expected, but our host and his lady were civil and attentive. The hotels of Montreal greatly surpass in comfort those of Quebec, from the very sufficient reason of having a great deal more to do. The large annual assemblage of company at Saratoga and Balston Springs, near Albany, has established a sort of fashionable tour by Lake Champlain to Montreal, and thence to Niagara, returning to Albany by the grand Erie canal. Along the whole of this route every exertion has been made for the accommodation of the public, and many of the hotels are extensive and particularly well kept.

Quebec is divided into two towns, called, from relative position, the Upper and Lower. The latter occupies a very limited

stripe along the river, at the foot of the lofty limestone cliff, on which is placed the upper town, crowned by Fort Diamond, so named from crystals interspersed in the rock, and rising about 350 feet above the level of the river. The population is about 20,000. In the lower town are the custom-house, numerous large stores, &c., with all the filth and confusion of a sea-port town, confined to a narrow space. The ascent to the upper portion is uncommonly steep, and it is at once singular and somewhat startling, in the busy hours, to encounter a habitan with his bonnet rouge erect in his cart, and rattling his little horse at a full trot down this rapid descent, without a thought of hazard to himself or to the unwary passenger. Many a poor cur, too, may be seen toiling in harness, and dragging a vehicle heavily enough laden up this weary hill. After passing a fortified gate, streets diverge in various directions, by one of which we entered a large and spacious square, of which one side is chiefly occupied by the chateau in which the governor resides. The streets in this part of the town are sufficiently wide, and the houses large and respectable; still the stranger is impressed with a sombre feeling, but very partially relieved by the military costume and the imposing air of a garrison. The society of Quebec is highly respectable within its circle I found an old and valued friend, whose family made my short stay in all respects pleasant.

The state of the roads and ice upon the river St Charles rendering it inconvenient to visit the Fall of Montmorenci, more ample leisure was afforded for examining Fort Diamond, and sauntering over the Plains of Abraham. Government has expended large sums upon the fortifications of Quebec, and which, possessed as they are of the combined advantages of nature and art, must set at defiance, I should think, the utmost efforts of bravery or skill. Among many favourable circumstances, a copious supply of water within the fort is certainly not the least important. The casemates, or large bomb-proof chambers, along the ramparts, are of such dimensions as to permit the whole garrison (4000 or 5000 men) to parade within them, these halls of destruction communicating by large folding-doors like drawing-rooms en suite. The walls are forty feet high, and the ditch about fifty feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. The barracks, magazines, storehouses, &c. are extensive and commo

dious, and the whole arrangements admirably adapted for de-fence and mutual support.

Nothing can be more magnificent than the coup d'œil from the Old Cavalier's Battery upon the summit. Far to the right and left stretches the noble St Lawrence; close underneath is the city, with the wharfs and shipping; and on the opposite or southern shore rises Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay white building, farms, &c. Ranging to the east, the eye at once rests on the Isle of Orleans, dividing the river into two nearly equal branches; and to the north-east is the bold ravine, from whence rushes the Montmorenci, precipitating its waters over a fall 240 feet in height. The river St Charles bounds Quebec upon the north, and from its banks a rich and cultivated country extends back for several miles to the Indian village of Loretto, beyond which the landscape is closed by finely wooded hills as far as the eye can reach. The Plains of Abraham extend to the westward of the city, upon the table-land above the river. The high road to Montreal nearly intersects them; and on the left as you leave town is the race-course. Some attention has been paid to this amusement in Canada, and I saw two steeds in training, not, however, upon the verdant turf, but trashing round and round the great square, upon pavement and roads by no means smooth. One was a powerful bay-horse, got by Filho da Puta, and had cost 400 guineas; the other was a favourite mouse-coloured mare (Clara Fisher), bred in Virginia, and of great symmetry and beauty.

The Plains of Abraham, however, have witnessed more glorious and heart-stirring contests than those of the race-course; and the memory of Wolfe, falling as he did in the very arms of victory, must be ever cherished and revered. The inhabitants of Quebec are of a somewhat motley description. As you pass along its streets, the lively chatter of the native French, the animated brogue of the Emerald Isle, English, Scotch, and even the dialect of the Gael, assail your ear at every turn. Law proceedings are conducted in English and French; and in a short trial at which I was present, the jury was charged by judge and barristers, in both tongues.

I left Quebec, late at night, upon my return to Montreal, the departure of the steam-boat being dependent upon the tide.

When I came on deck the following morning, I found it quite crowded with passengers. Several vessels with emigrants had arrived, even at this early period of the season, and we had one party with us of about 150 paupers, from the county of Somerset, sent out at the expense of their parish. I had a long conversation with a very respectable-looking person who had charge of them. The plan, if it merited that term, seemed to be marvellously defective. The men had the appearance of healthy agricultural labourers, hedgers, ditchers, or husbandmen, well adapted for colonists, and who could not have failed, under a right system, to have speedily acquired a competent provision for themselves and families. The overseer informed me that his instructions were limited to a due superintendence of the people during the voyage, to securing a fair fulfilment of engagements on the part of the master of the vessel, and finally to land the paupers at Montreal, paying each man L. 4, and leaving them to shift for themselves. The inevitable consequence would be, that these poor fellows would be generally and speedily fleeced by low tavern-keepers and others of their small pittance, and then turned adrift, useless to themselves, and a mere nuisance to the province. Had some regular chain of communication been established between government and the parishes, how easily might these families have been placed upon government-lands, in a way productive of the greatest mutual advantage.

The influx of emigrants at Quebec is very great, and a large proportion landing in a state of destitution, the inhabitants are subjected to a most vexatious burden in providing some temporary supplies. Fifty thousand have been landed at Quebec this season (1831), and probably ten thousand more have passed on to Montreal, without being regularly reported.

The weather was fine, and I was again fortunate in a pleasant party. Mr Molson returned with us, having abandoned all thoughts at present of attempting to raise the unfortunate Waterloo. Another splendid steamer, I believe of 260 horsepower, also his property, was to be launched this day at Montreal, to be named the "John Bull;" and his Canada friends, who seem, by-the-by, ever ready to answer, and slow to baulk, a convivial call, considered it quite indecorous to pass over such

VOL. III. NO. XVI.

SS

an event without offering an oblation to John's success. We stopped as before at Trois Rivières; and while the wood store was replenishing, some of the party had a short ramble through the village. It was a delightful evening, and we heard with some regret the bell which summoned us on board. One unlucky wight, who had been at first rather tardy in his motions, was compelled by a second peal so to accelerate his steps, that, in passing along the plank, whether from inadvertence or the fumes of our oblation to John Bull, he missed his footing, and soused over head into the river. There was fortunately assistance at hand, and he speedily appeared in dripping garments upon deck, whence he was quickly removed to his berth. The sun set this evening with uncommon splendour. In the course of the night we reached Montreal, and at an early hour I got ashore, and resumed my quarters in Goodenough's hotel.

But I find, that while I have but entered upon my tour, I have trespassed beyond all reasonable bounds upon your time. I must, therefore, stop for the present in my comfortable quarters at Montreal. Should these slight Notes, taken down at the moment, prove interesting to you or your numerous readers, I may hope to furnish you, in your following Numbers, with something that may prove useful as well as interesting to those whom necessity or choice may conduct to the fertile regions of the New World.

ON THE TEA-PLANT. By Mr MAIN of Chelsea.

THERE is a notice, in the last Number of the Quarterly Journal, of the Camellia, or Thea viridis, the import of which is to show that the plant may be, and therefore ought to be, cultivated in Britain, or in some of her colonies, in order that this country should be less dependent on the capricious government of China, for that now almost universally used necessary of life.

Did the cultivation and manufacture of tea depend only on climate or soil, many places both in India and Europe might be found favourable to the growth of the plant. The principal tea country in China lies between the 30th and 35th degrees of

« ΠροηγούμενηΣυνέχεια »