THE fort from which my trip up the Columbia may be said to commence is called Vancouver's Fort, and is situated about ninety miles up the river, which is, even at that distance from the Mouth, a mile and a half wide, and skirted by large plains, with high mountains bounding the horizon, presenting a scene of grandeur seldom met with except in the New World. This settlement was founded by the Hudson's Bay Company, and placed under the charge of an agent, who, at the period of my visit, was one of those primitive sort of men who only exist beyond the influence of the so-called world. To him I am indebted for much disinterested kindness, as, upon telling him of the shortness of my leave of absence, he not only entered warmly into my arrangements, but lent me his own boat and crew, personally superintending the whole proceeding, saving me, by his good-nature, both time and expense for the boatmen, who are a race of half-castes called by the name of Crees, make the most exorbitant charges, so that two or three days are usually occupied in bargaining, and at least one more in fitting out the boat. Thanks to the Governor, all the arrange ments were got through so expeditiously that we were able to start upon the very afternoon of the day from which the leave was dated.

Our party, with the addition of three Cree boatmen, numbered six; and taking turns at the oars, we had the satisfaction of getting about ten miles up the river before we were compelled to anchor for the night. It so happened that this resting-place was near an Indian village, and the long hours of the night were rendered sleepless by a succession of the most unearthly yells and shouts. In vain I covered my ears, determined to shut out those terrible sounds; frightful dreams floated before my disordered vision, horrible nightmares tormented my brain, till at last,

nearly frantic, I started to my feet, and, determined to see what could be the cause of so much noise, stole off in the direction of the village Rising a little hill, I came upon it quite suddenly; it lay in the valley beyond, and was distinctly marked by innumerable bright lights. Evidently some great festival was going on. In one place, that from which the shouts proceeded, a large fire burned, and towards this I approached, using the utmost caution, as discovery might have been fatal. Presently I found myself within sight of one of the strangest and wildest scenes I had ever witnessed. Upon one side of the fire sat, in formal rows, about a hundred Indians, plumed and painted in their gayest dress. At the other side twelve more were performing a wonderful dance, which, I afterwards found, is called the Pipe Dance. They wore head-dresses of gay feathers, while floating round them, and waving to and fro or folded as the dance required, were large blankets, ornamented with strange figures, from the varied feathers of the brightest plumaged birds. Each held a long pipe, the bowl fantastically carved, and the stalk decorated with flowers, beads, and feathers: these they flourished about, addressing them in a long monotonous chant, which at particular parts seemed to demand the chorus of yells whose discordant harshness had disturbed my rest.

After looking on for a short time, the danger of my position began to present itself to my mind. So, not choosing to risk my life as payment for curiosity, I retired as quietly as I had approached, and reached the boat in safety, where, finding the Crees awake, I set about learning something of our wild neighbours.

It appeared they were a tribe of Flatheads, and part of the large division called Chinooks who inhabit the shores of the Columbia and Vancouver's Island. Deriving as

they do the greatest portion of their subsistence from the sale of furs to the traders, they profess great friendship for white men, and can generally converse in a sort of broken English-I am ashamed to say, plentifully embellished with oaths. They are of an avaricious disposition; and finding that travellers generally pay well for any information they obtain, are particularly anxious to show their national sports, vying with each other in their endeavours to be selected as cicerone.

They derive the distinctive title of Flathead from the strange manner in which they compress the head. The operation commences at the birth of a child, which is laid on a flat board, the back of its head resting upon a small pad; another is placed on the forehead, and this latter is then firmly strapped down by broad leather bands which are knotted at the back of the frame. This pressure is continued for eighteen or twenty months, when the skull is so formed that the desired shape is attained, the deformity increasing long after the bands are removed.

For some time I was under the delusion that such an unnatural formation must affect the brain itself, and weaken both health and intellect; but I was forced to own, upon subsequent inquiry and observation, that they are not only a remarkably shrewd race, but subject to fewer diseases than any other tribe of the Chinooks. Perhaps an equally curious fact is, that during this apparently painful process the infant evinces no symptom of suffering, except only when the bandage is removed for any purpose, when the poor little thing seems to awake from a torpor, and screams frightfully.

The Flatheads look with great contempt upon all other tribes, considering a round head as the distinctive mark of slavery, their slaves (of whom they possess a great number, and treat very cruelly) being all taken from round-headed tribes. My adventure of the preceding evening awakened a strong desire to see more of these people, and after much persuasion I prevailed upon my companions to stay one day, and visit the vill

age, a description of which will answer for almost all the Chinook habitations. Each house stands alone, and is built of wood sufficiently strong to last several years: they are in a square form, with roofs almost touching the ground, an inconvenience obviated by the ground in the interior being hollowed out to the depth of four or even more feet. One house is frequently large enough to contain several families, and although, at the time I saw them, they were tolerably clean, I could perfectly understand the miserable state they would be in during winter, when forty human beings, of perhaps the very dirtiest race in the world, are stowed away together with dried or drying fish, cama roots, pigs, and dogs: moreover, they have such an intense aversion to cold that they will never move out unless compelled by absolute starvation. When I saw how they existed, I did not feel astonished at the prevalence of consumption, which carries them off in great numbers in the early spring, as the close noisome air that fills the dens in which they live in an almost dormant state, must render them doubly susceptible to cold.

We were received by the chief with great kindness, who, having first welcomed us in his usual attire, disappeared. Presently we were conducted to his house, and found him seated in great state, dressed in a bright-flowered cotton dressing-gown, the gift of some French trader: this he folded round his naked limbs with much affectation, proud of the distinction he thus possessed over his countrymen, who indulge in a simple and economical toilet, consisting usually of a band round the waist, to which a bark tail is attached, the latter reminding one strongly of the insignia of a village school--the dreaded taws. This appendage, if I may so call it, is regulated according to the wearer's position in the Flathead society, attaining in the case of a chief a greater length than that which adorns the person of a slave. They decorate their heads with plumes of feathers, or rows of fishes' teeth arranged upon a bark band, and wear necklaces of the same, sometimes carving every tooth in a curiously ingenious way.

The women are clothed in short petticoats of bark strings woven by themselves into a stuff resembling cocoa-nut matting. These are dyed a bright red and blue, from colours they extract from the earth and a blue flower called Wappatoa. The wives of the chief are distinguished by the addition of gay aprons, upon which the figures of birds and beasts are marked out by different coloured feathers. I saw one I admired more than all the rest; it was made of goose skin, which, being cut into long strings while warm, is allowed to dry in the sun with the feathers still on. The heat contracting the skin forms it into feathery ropes, which, when woven together, have a singularly light and pretty appearance.

We had not been long in the presence of royalty when we were asked if we should like to see any sports; and upon stating such to be our desire, the king made a long speech, which ended in his appointing a racemeeting, and adding that the Englishmen would give the prizes. This we were scarcely prepared to do, but upon consultation managed the matter satisfactorily, each contributing what he could-one a neck-tie, another a knife, I myself being requested by the king to give a very brilliantly coloured silk purse he had caught sight of in my hand. In an hour from the time when the order for the race was given, we were conducted to the plain without the village, where at least fifty horses were already waiting. They are small wicked-looking animals, and were indulging in wonderful plunging and kicking, making sudden charges, as if they would tear each other to pieces; yet although ridden without a saddle, and having only a sort of halter as a bridle, I did not see one of the jockeys fall, or notice anything like confusion.

Our appearance was the signal for a start, twenty of them rushing off, shouting to their horses all the time in a frantic way. The excitement was soon tremendous; the betting was as keen as on any English course, and seems to be their favourite amusement, being carried to great excess on all occasions. In fact, they will stake everything they have, even

to their wives, and, when completely beggared, they think nothing of hanging themselves, suicide being looked upon as a happy resource in all cases of difficulty, and a certain entrance into the good life.

When the races were over, the chief selected a party to show us calf-hunting, and there being no time to spend in going in search of wild ones, he ordered a number of tame animals to be turned out; these were hunted by dogs, until, driven mad by fear, they dashed across the plain. At the same time the mounted hunters galloped after them, and, each selecting a calf, kept alongside, waiting until a favourable opportunity occurred, when, seizing the tail in his left hand, with a vigorous twist he turned the unlucky animal heels-over-head. The fall usually breaks its back; but if not, it is so effectually stunned that the hunter leaves it to be despatched by the rest of the party who follow on foot. At the season the wild calves separate from their mothers this sport is much followed, and forms the whole occupation of the natives.

Finding he had not time to show us anything further, the chief volunteered a description of the inauguration of their "medicine," or doctor and priest. It appears they look upon the ceremony as a national festival. It is announced many weeks before the day fixed, and great preparations are made to hold it with due honour. Upon the proper day, the people assemble from all parts, each division of the tribe bringing with them their medicine-men. When the candidate appears, he makes presents to these his future brethren, regulating their value according to the age of the recipient. After this, he is conducted to an empty lodge, in which he is left, without food or light, for three days; this is to enable him to dream, dreams being held in great reputation by these people.

The idea of the wretched man being able to sleep is rendered perfectly preposterous by the whole tribe taking it in turn to dance round the lodge, yelling in a fearful way. When he is taken out upon the evening of the third day, he pretends to be in a state of insensibility, from which he will not awake until, after being

plunged in cold water, he is being violently rubbed all over: then he suddenly starts up, breaks from the attendants, and conceals himself in the nearest thicket. In this he remains some hours, during which seclusion a friend, concealed for the purpose, rubs him with grease, sprinkling over this handfuls of goose-down, which, adhering to the coating plentifully besmeared over him, forms a peculiar garment, held sacred as the emblem of the good spirit. Thus dressed, he returns, and is met by the whole assembly, when, after being presented with a cedar-bark blanket and a rattle made of fish-skin, he brings forth everything he has, and divides his property among his kinsmen, trusting henceforth to the charity of the tribe for support.

We left the village early next morning and proceeded up the river, which every moment became more beautiful; for, while decreasing in width, it increased in force and depth, the banks rising in rocky walls on either side sometimes to the height of two or three hundred feet; and as the dark water rushed through these passes, I could not help wishing I was a painter, to carry away some lasting memorial of the scene.

It was with great difficulty we got up the currents we now frequently met, and several times I thought we must certainly upset, or land and carry the boat past the rapid-an expedient often resorted to by the hunters higher up the river, who sometimes carry their boats across a mountain to avoid the rapids. When the banks were low enough to afford us a prospect of the country, we were charmed by the picturesque appearance of the plains, which at this season are covered with the Wappatoa flowers. The undulations gave a light and shade to this beautiful carpet, which stretched mile after mile until met by purple mountains, upon the same gigantic scale as everything else in this country, towering one above the other, until lost in the heavens, the eye becoming perplexed in its endeavour to distinguish land from cloud.

As evening came on, a grey veil gathered over the sky, and a shrill blast straight from the plains of everlast

ing snow whistled down the river, so effectually chilling us that we were glad to take refuge under the lee of a rock; and after mooring the boat, we lighted a fire to warm our shivering limbs.

We passed a wretched night, hailing the sunrise with great satisfaction; and truly a more beautiful one could not have been. The entire horizon was a mass of gold, across which floated little crimson and violet-tinted clouds; while directly above our heads, and as yet beyond the influence of the sun, the sky retained the cold unfathomable blue of night, or at least twilight, through which a few solitary stars still glimmered. The very river borrowed a rosy hue, reflecting the warmth of the horizon, and cheering our hearts with the prospect of a fine day.

As we rowed up, the Crees occasionally landed for the purpose of examining the ground in search of the footmarks of buffaloes, they being confident of meeting a herd near this place. At last, on reaching a wider part of the river, the Crees asserted they were sure to find them; and no sooner had they landed than their shouts testified to their success. The ground was covered with footprints, still wet and soft, from the animals having forded the river at this point, and that so recently that we might expect to meet them any moment.

I cannot describe our excitement, or the alacrity with which we obeyed the directions of our guides to make as much haste as possible, as, if the animals were moving to a new pasturage, they go with such speed that they might still escape. Rifle in hand, we set off over the beautifully undulating plain, its features gradually changing as we approached the mountain-range, gentle rising-grounds becoming little hills, valleys changing into ravines. On and on we toiled, keeping along the broad trail, which each moment appeared fresher. To our dismay, it suddenly vanished; we looked in consternation at the guides, who explained that the disappearance of the track was caused by the herd scattering to feed, adding that most probably they were within a few

hundred yards, concealed by the inequalities of the ground. Pointing to a hill just in front, the Crees beckoned us to follow, at the same time throwing themselves upon their stomachs, and crawling up with a serpent-like quietness: we of course imitating their example, though, owing to the stiff nature of the grass, it was by no means an easy operation. We toiled on, thinking only of the anticipated sight-an anticipation realised far beyond our wildest dreams; for on peeping over the crest of the hill, we had the herd full in view: even the Crees were startled by their numbers; and as for me, it was with great difficulty I could persuade myself that it was not some delusion in my sight. The wide valley was absolutely darkened with them, and so close were we, that for nearly five minutes nothing was heard but the short cropping of the grass by their teeth. Unluckily we were to windward, and a gentle breeze now passing over us must have carried the scent to the animals, as one of the sentinel bulls nearest us instantly rose, and, facing round, threw up his head as if to catch the wind again; then uttering an angry moan, he looked keenly at us; so close was he that I could see the twinkle of his little bloodshot eyes. It was rather an uncomfortable moment, as he seemed very much inclined to make a closer inspection-a conclusion to our excursion I by no means bargained for; and I was not sorry when he wheeled round and joined the rest, roaring in an angry growling sort of way, which was plainly a signal of danger, as the sleeping animals rose hastily, and taking up the note, the plain soon resounded with their voices. We had no time to lose. Each chose the bull he pleased, and simultaneously our rifles rang out; a deafening rush followed, and when the smoke cleared away from our eyes, the herd were in a dense mass, heaving to and fro like some storm-tossed lake. Our danger was imminent if the terrified animals turned their course in the direction of the ford, we were lost, as they must have gone over us; fortunately, they bent towards the hills, and streamed away, crushing upon each other so closely

that I fancied I saw one or two lifted off their legs. Once their course was determined, our danger was over, and, springing up, we followed on, leaving the bull I had wounded making vain efforts to overtake the rest. From their immense numbers, their progress was naturally much retarded, so we easily kept within range, firing as frequently as we could, though to all appearance doing no harm. At last the dust and heat compelled us to stop, and as the guides assured us some of the animals we had hit would be sure to fall, and thus be found next day, we consented to give up our first buffalo-hunt, and return to the bull we had left. As I expected, we found him dead, and had the satisfaction of seeing some steaks placed upon a couple of heated stones; but hungry as we were, we could not persuade our English teeth to masticate the leathery substance disappearing down the Crees' throats, who did not apparently deem it necessary to waste their energy in chewing their food. I watched them with envious feelings, but at last, fatigue overcoming hunger, I lay down to sleep. If there had been hardship in sleeping in the open air the previous night, the most fastidious could not have complained of the present, with the blue starlit sky as canopy, and lulled as we were by the sad but indescribably sweet music that vibrates over the prairie; that same soft voice which has breathed to me upon the heathy mountains of dear old Scotland, and sung its own familiar song upon the burning deserts of Africa, the waving forests of America, and in fainter accents whispered over the moonlit sea, cheering the night-watch with dear memories of the past.

We followed up the track of the herd next day, and found the Crees had judged correctly, three buffaloes having fallen; but such is the instinct of these animals, that we found merely a mass of blood and sand, the dying beasts having been gored to death. Upon my expressing surprise that they should observe this ceremony in the midst of their flight, the guides assured me that they would turn, when in the greatest fear, and face any danger in their attempts to accomplish this object.

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