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FROM SALA TO UPSALA.

Journey from Sala to Upsala-Appearance of Upsala-Pres sent condition of the University-Afzelius-ThunbergBotanic Garden-Chemical Schools-Mineralogical Collection-University Library-Typographical raritiesManuscripts-Codex Argenteus - Cabinet of Queen Christina-Mysterious gift of Gustavus the ThirdExecutive branch of the University-Degrees-ThesesCathedral-Burial-place of Linnæus-Monument erected by the inhabitants-Image of Thor- Bloody coat of Eric-Shift of Margaret-New Botanic Garden-Lecture Room-Conflicting opinions respecting Gustavus the Third Habits and manners of the StudentsPublic Cellars-Conduct of the Students towards the

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VOL. XI.

B

Professors

I.

Journey

from Sala

Professors-total want of discipline-neglected state of science—want of emulation-Habits of intoxicationCharacter of the Swedes-Uniform aspect of the country and its inhabitants.

CHAP. IN our journey from Sala to Upsala, upon the thirteenth of November, we passed through a cultivated country so much resembling Camto Upsala. bridgeshire, in its level corn-land and the appearance of its villages, that we were often reminded of the approach to our own University, as we drew nigh to the most celebrated of the Swedish Seminaries. We met, as before, in our first stage to Tårnaby, numerous bands of Dalecarlians, returning, from their summer excursions for employment, towards their own country. From Tårnaby we next came to Gastre, distant twenty-one English miles from Sala; and here passed the boundary between the provinces of WÄSTMANLAND and UPLAND. Afterwards we journeyed through Långtora and Safva; the country being open, bleak, and level, with the very best roads. The land on all sides appeared to be in a high state of cultivation, having lost in picturesque beauty what it has gained by man's industry; for of those forests which almost universally cover the Swedish territories, not a vestige, nor even a solitary tree, was to be seen. After another stage of twelve English miles and

I.

a quarter, at the distance of fifty-two miles and CHAP. a half from Sala, we arrived, just as it was growing dark, at UPSALA. We had, however, a fine view of the Royal Château, upon an emi- Appearance of Upsala. nence, as we entered the town: the Cathedral, also, presents a superb figure, and is visible, upon this road, a considerable distance from Upsala'. In a former Volume, the appearance of Upsala, in the approach to it from Stockholm, has been described. When we first arrived in this celebrated seat of northern literature, having our heads filled with extravagant notions of the splendour of a University which had produced so many illustrious men, we reserved for our second visit a diligent inquiry into its history

(1) The resemblance between Upland and Cambridgeshire was noticed in the preceding Chapter: but another traveller, also of the University of Cambridge, affords, in his Manuscript Journal, a curious coincidence with the foregoing observations, by saying that there is a resemblance also in the external appearance of the two Universities.

"The first appearance of Upsal may be compared to that of the situation and view of Cambridge from the Huntingdon Road. The Palace of Upsal stands upon high ground, as does the County Gaol at Cambridge. The town being below, you look over the latter, and see an extent of flat country around. By the original plan of the Palace, it was intended to occupy three sides of a square parallelogram; but one side was never finished. At one corner there is a tower: the other side is not completed in the same way. The Governor of the Province resides here, and a few other persons. It is intended for the residence of the Sovereign, when he visits Upsal. This establishment is quite independent of the University."-Dr. Fiott Lee's MS. Journal.

(2) Vol.IX.p. 212. Octavo Edition.

I.

Present condition

versity.

CHAP. and present state'. The high expectations we had formed, with regard to its flourishing condition, were not however realized. Every thing of the Uni- seemed to dwindle into insignificance, when the reality was opposed to our ideal picture. The morning after our arrival (November 14) we waited Afzelius. upon Dr. Afzelius, in his apartments in the Palace. He had been during ten years engaged in foreign travel; and was at this time unpacking his collection, which consisted of natural curiosities, from Africa, and other distant regions which he had visited. We presented to him some specimens of rare plants entrusted to our care and conveyance by Dr. Muller of Christiana. As Dr. Afzelius had been in England, and was in Cambridge but a short time before we set out upon this expedition, he seemed to be well aware of the striking contrast which a comparison of the two Universities must necessarily afford; and said to us, "You must not expect to find every thing here upon the same footing as in England: we have neither the same funds, nor the means of exciting an equal degree of emulation among our students."

Having expressed an earnest wish to be pre

(1) This has been in some measure anticipated, by the very ample account published by Dr. Thomson, in his Travels in Sweden. Lond. 1813.

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