C

III.

historical work of Mr. Dalin has been already CHAP.
noticed. Tacitus has been translated by Mr.
Steenpiper. The master of the Cathedral School
of Stockholm may be considered as an historian
of merit his name is Murrberg: he wrote an
account of Christian's residence in Stockholm in
1520. Biography has also found an advocate
in Mr. Nordin, who has written the Lives of
Illustrious Swedes. There are some distinguished
men at the University of Abo; but of these we
may speak hereafter. Much may yet be ex-
pected from the Swedes; and their literature
may revive; but it must be owned the prospect
is a bad one. The spirit of the people remains
yet unbroken: but where the liberty of the
press is annihilated-and Russia, like one of
those moving bogs, of which we read, in Ireland,
comes slowly but surely on, threatening to over-
whelm the country', and to extinguish all that
remains of genius and heroism in the land—he
must indeed be sanguine who can hope to see
Sweden regenerated and her glory restored.

(1) The University of Abo, together with all Finland, has already fallen under the dominion of Russia.

STOCKHOLM TO ÅLAND.

Characteristical Swedish Exclamation-Departure from Stockholm-Commencement of the Winter seasonGrisselhamn-Telegraph-Passage-boat-Geographical Nomenclature-Dangerous situation of the Author and his Companions-Providential escape-Aspect of affairs in landing upon Åland-Frebbenby-State Messenger of the Court of Russia-Ruins of Castelholm-History of that Fortress-Skårpans-Change in the Manners of the People -Bomarsund-Vargatta Sound - SledgeTravelling-Isle of Vardö-The Party embark across

the

the Delen for Kumlinge-The Author induced to return to Skårpans-Festivities of Christmas Eve-Attempt to convey the carriage upon the ice-Sudden storm-Village of Vardo-Interior of an Åland Dwelling-Breakfast of the Natives-Extra Post-A turbulent sea frozen in one night-Cause of the rapid change-The Author recrosses the Bomarsund-Southern Passage to Kumlinge -State of the Delen-Geological features of ÅlandManners of the Ålanders in Winter-Number of inhabitants-Means of subsistence - Clergy-Landmeasurers — their destructive influence and depreda

tions.

IV.

teristical

exclama

AMONG the peculiarities of national habits which CHAP. cannot fail to be remarked by a stranger in Sweden, is the universal prevalence of an expression constantly in use, although adapted to a great variety of feelings and circumstances. This expression consists of two monosyllables, CharacJa så! pronounced with a strong aspiration upon Swedish the first, and a lengthened tone upon the second; tion. varying, however, according to the passion that is to be expressed-Yah so! It is impossible to give an idea of the innumerable significations to which Yah so! is applied: from the throne to the cottage it constitutes four-fifths of the remarks made by the Swedes upon all occasions. Sometimes, when a person is relating a story, it comes out slowly, as a kind of obliging assent to the credit of his narration, and an encourage

IV.

CHAP. ment for him to proceed-Yah so! Yah so! And then it is given in a subdued and whining tone: at others, upon suddenly comprehending what was before a paradox, it bursts forth with emphasis-Yah so!!! Again, at other times, it is used as a term of defiance, and with a more guttural sound, upon being menaced-Yach so! And then it is accompanied by a corresponding swing of the head. Again in rejoinder; as for example: QUEST. Who are they? ANSW. Englishmen. REJOIND. Yah so! If a Swede were told that his head would be struck off within the next half hour, he would say, beyond doubt, Yah so! This is not peculiar to the Capital, or to any one of the Provinces, but may be observed alike in all parts of the Country. Wherever a Swede is found, Yah so! is sure to denote his presence.

We felt sorry when the time arrived in which it was necessary to bid farewell, not only to Yah so! under all its multiplied associations, but to the Swedes and to their Country. Being tempted by the hope of overtaking the friends with whom we entered Sweden', before they should have left Petersburg, we had waited only for the coming of the frost to set out for Russia.

(1) Professor Malthus and the Rev. W. Otter.

CHAP.

IV.

Departure

Stockholm.

We left Stockholm, upon wheels, before the snow
had fallen, upon Saturday, Dec. 14. The mer-
cury in Fahrenheit's thermometer fell this day, from
at noon, only four degrees below the freezing
point, and it had not been so low during all the
month of November. Soon afterwards, how-
ever, its descent was, with little variation, pro-
gressive. At seven in the evening it fell 21°
below freezing.

We had bought of Signor Acerbi a very excellent German Bátarde, which that traveller had caused to be constructed in Vienna according to his own directions, and it was provided with many conveniences for travelling. We have

given an account of such a vehicle in a former - volume. We passed the first night at Kragsta. In our way thither, through Ensta Ösby, Hall, and Rilanda, the country was more open than usual, and much cultivated. The roads were rendered as perfect as possible by the frost. According to the custom in Sweden and Russia, our postillion drove four horses abreast. We passed several lakes, which were frozen. The next day we journeyed through Svanberga, Stabby or Staba, and Tresta, to Grissehamn. The cold was now become so piercing, that we could

(2) See Vol. I. p. 16.