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IV.

peasant that his land has not been fairly laid CHAP. out, and that it may be more profitably arranged for him;-at which his neighbour becomes irritated. A dispute ensues, which is artfully fomented; the Land-measurer receiving bribes from both parties. Each tries to injure the other, and is ready to lavish the half of his property to satisfy the vengeance thus excited; the property of the one being encroached upon exactly in the proportion that the other is able to feed the avarice of the pretended mediator; who carries on his schemes, until he has exhausted, and perhaps ruined, one or both of the disputants. In the interior provinces of Sweden, if a house be seen better than common, or a carriage or a horse cut a better figure than usual, it is generally the property of a Land-measurer. Prowling about, like wolves seeking whom they may devour, the very coming of these men among the Swedish farmers always prognosticates calamity: and it is surprising, that, in a country so prone to revolution and change of system, these injurious plunderers and disturbers of the public peace should have been so long allowed to carry on their depredations.

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The Author determines to undertake the Southern Circuitous Route-Introduces his Personal Narrative of that Expedition-Grundsunda-Bergo-Simplicity of the Natives-Increase of Wolves-Seal-hunters-Safetypikes-The Author deserted by his Guides-arrives at Mushaga-Ravages of the Small-pox-Mode of forcing a passage through the Ice-Remarkable effect of Snow falling in Sea-water-Natural Cave of Ice-Såttunga -Description of the Inhabitants-Swedes of ÅlandFinlanders-Remains of antient and pure Swedish-its resemblance to English-Seal-skin Sandals - Winter occupations of the Ålanders-Preparations for a journey on the ice to Kumlinge-Description of the Procession

on

CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY TO KUMLINGE.

on leaving Sattunga-Encounter with the Seal-hunters -Change of route-Scene exhibited at mid-day—Arrival at Kumlinge-The Author terminates his Personal Narrative.

V.

213

AFTER various inquiries among the peasants CHAP. and messengers who had been sent to ascertain the state of the sea in what is called the Sjön Delen, between the Isle of Vardo and Kumlinge, it was determined to attempt the southern passage by the circuitous route of Sattunga. As in this undertaking, the most hazardous in which the author was ever engaged, he was of necessity compelled to bear a very principal part, he makes no apology for the frequent allusions to himself which unavoidably occur. He was more than once deserted by his companions, and left to make his way over a frozen sea alone: the incidents he has to relate, therefore, become more than usually restricted in their reference; for which reasons he proposes, in giving an account of this expedition, to alter the style of the narrative, and to make it personal, by transcribing verbatim the description given of it as it occurs in his own manuscript journal.

Dec. 30.-In the evening of this day, I sallied forth in a small sledge drawn by one horse, with Peter the Swedish interpreter, and a single peasant

CHAP. mounted behind, in the hope of getting the same

V.

night as far as Vargatta'. We passed the doubtful surface of the three Sounds which constitute the Bomarsunds Fjerd, upon the ice, by starlight; and arrived safe at Vargatta. There was a dance in the village, at which Peter attended': and upon his return, he brought me word that a farmer from the Isle of Sandö had been present at the dance, who had crossed the ice to Vargatta, and who gave it out that the Sjön Delen was frozen over. Upon this intelligence, several sailors, and captains of merchantmen, whose vessels were all locked in by the ice, and who were waiting in the village for a passage to Finland, came to the resolution of venturing on foot by the northern passage, and asked me to accompany them. Fortunately, I refused their invitation: for although they attempted to reach Kumlinge by this route, they never arrived there and I could not afterwards learn what became of them. In the morning, as soon as daylight appeared, I set out to explore the

(1) See the Vignette to this Chapter.

(2) The last of these Sounds is sometimes called that of Vargatta, by which name it was distinguished in the former chapter.

(3) The national Dances of Sweden are; the Waltz, with various modifications; the Polska, or Polish Dance, differing from that of Norway in having slower movements; also Minuets, which are practised in Dalecarlia, and are frequent among the lower orders.

V.

Grund

sunda.

southern way; and and getting into a sledge, drove CHAP. to the little village of Grundsunda, where we were told that the ice might be safely passed to the Isle of Bergo: but as the people here are rarely able to give any accurate information with regard to places a Swedish mile from their own homes, they could say nothing of the state of the ice beyond Bergo.

My journey upon the sea to the Isle of Bergo presented one of the most novel and striking scenes I had ever beheld. The ice, instead of being rough and opake, as before, was smooth and glassy as a mirror; and it is quite marvellous how the horses, although purposely shod for the undertaking, can find a footing upon such a surface. In some places, the transparencies being perfect, and a bright light permeating the abyss, towering rocks of granite were seen rising through the deep, towards the crystal plain over which we glided. To stop, and cast a glance below, would have made the boldest quake, who has been unaccustomed to sights like these. When we reached the midway of this fearful expanse, some degree of alarm was excited by the conduct of our guides; who, upon coming to a chasm which the settling of the surface had left in the ice, halted, positively declaring that they would venture no farther. Instances of

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