VI. which we soon reached, as the distance was not CHAP. more than three English miles and a half. Our next stage, to Tursanpåre, was performed with Tursandifficulty, the road being blocked up by the päre. snow; in consequence of which we were compelled to make a rambling circuitous expedition, pulling down hedges, and making our way through the fields. kylä. Tursanpare is rather a large village and here we were agreeably surprised at seeing, as in England, a sign-post and sign to denote an inn. Our companion shewed us into a room, where he called for burnt-brandy with sugar and ginger in it; a mode adopted in the country of making the abominable brandy everywhere met with rather more stomachic and palatable. From Tursanpåre we continued our journey to Nie- Niemenmenkyla and Nussis-Nummis, distant only fourteen English miles from Abo. Our Swedish companion, who, in his sledge, was wrapped up in blankets, quilts, pelisses, all sorts of woollen and skins, and wore a fur cap upon his head covering his ears and cheeks, rallied us upon our disregard of the cold weather, seeing that we had less clothing, and sometimes cast off even our cloaks; saying, "It was so like Englishmen, to go about naked." But the fact is, that when there is no wind, and the sky is perfectly clear, CHAP. however diminished the temperature may be, VI. Nussis- the air is so dry, that a sensation of chilliness is rarely experienced while a person continues in motion, and does not render himself liable to the attacks which take place in going suddenly from a warm room into the cold air. At Nussis-Nummis we were detained a short time for horses. We afterwards set out once more; and proceeded to ÅBо, where we arrived Arrival at as it was getting dark. Upon our entering this Abo. Town and University, the first thing that struck us was the unusual sound of bells, upon all the horses drawing sledges about the streets. The inhabitants pay their visits attended by this kind of music; and generally in sledges, which are made to close up like our carriages. Upon our arrival, we went to an inn kept by a person of the name of Scippell, as being the largest and best in the place. Here being conducted into a very spacious and lofty chamber, used as a public card-room, adjoining to the ball-room, and finding that it was to be heated by means of two stoves, one at either extremity of this cold apartment, we ordered fires in both of them. When the wood, which had been used as fuel, was so far consumed that only the clear embers remained, according to the common custom in the country, we closed the chimneys by means of an iron VI. Narrow slider there placed for this purpose. If the inha- CHAP. bitants close up their stoves that the embers may send out heated air into the room, they are always careful to watch lest any appearance of a blue lambent flame upon the wood coals should remain, in which state it would be dangerous to shut the sliders. Unfortunately, not being escape from aware of this critical symptom-which, in fact, suffocation. denotes the formation and disengagement of carbonic acid gas-and finding it difficult to warm so large a room at all, we stopped up the chimneys as soon as we could do so without filling the room with smoke; and the consequence was, that we very narrowly escaped being killed. The author first felt the attack: it came on with great coldness in the extremities, and a tendency to sneeze; followed by a general sensation of shivering over the whole body, and violent headache. Presently, he fell senseless on the floor. His companion, being roused by the noise, and finding him in this situation, attempted to raise him; but was by this time also similarly affected, and had barely strength enough left to call in the servants, who alarmed the people of the house. Luckily, there happened to be in the inn, as a lodger, a young man who was an itinerant Lecturer in Natural Philosophy: as soon as he came into the room, in which many were VI. CHAP. now assembled, he perceived the cause of the accident, and immediately drew back the iron sliders which had closed the chimneys, and opened the doors. Two persons had lost their lives in the same chamber but a short time before, and from the same cause. This young man told us that similar accidents occur frequently, in winter, among the peasants; the chimneys in all their houses being constructed with a sliding-board, to close over the embers of burning wood: but as the severity of the climate always tempts them to shut their chimneys before the carbonic acid gas has completely effected its escape, the most fatal consequences ensue. Their mode of treating persons under these attacks is, to carry them out naked into the open air, and rub their bodies with snow until the vital functions are restored. We felt the bad effects of this accident in violent head-ache, which lasted during many days afterwards. State of Abo-its situation with regard to other Seminaries of Learning-its Commerce-Visit to the different Professors-Frantzen-his genius for poetry-Specimen of one of his Odes-Porthan-Account of the UniversityDifficulties encountered by the Professors-Disasters to which Abo has been liable-Cathedral-Ludicrous mistake-Effect of an Organ upon some Natives of Savolax-Interesting Cippus in the Chorus TottianusStatues and Pictures-Inscription in memory of Catherine, Widow of Eric XIV.-Historical Documents concerning this remarkable Woman-Swedish Legend upon her Daughter's coffin-Manuscripts preserved in a brazen coffer-Histories of Eric's Reign-Portraits of VOL. XI. T Luther |