CHAP.

I.

was perhaps borrowed from the upright center log, around which, as at the present day in the Northern forests, fuel was heaped, whenever a fire was kindled by the natives. All these antient superstitions, as they refer to the customs of mankind in its rudest state, so they may be still found, in their prototypes, among the simple observances, habits, and manners, of a savage people. The Yule Clog still retains a degree of reverence in the northern parts of England; the origin of which may have been of the same nature with that in which the Swedish idol was held by its worshippers. The log itself, as a symbol of the fire for which it was used, became an object of worship'. Whatever opinion may prevail upon this subject, we shall find that a similar superstition respecting the same sort of idol has prevailed almost all over the world. Among the antient idols of Greece, the Palladium was of this description; for it was nothing more than a piece of wood of an extraordinary form*. We considered, therefore, this image of Thor as one of the most curious antiquities that any country has preserved; as connected not only

(1) See Brand's Popular Antiquities, pp. 155, 157. Newcastle upon Tyne, 1777. Also Brady's Clavis Calendaria, vol. I. p. 124. Lond. 1812. (2) See the observations of Heyné, in his Excursus, upon the Palladium and the Penates.

I.

Bloody

Coat of

with the early history of Sweden, but with the CHAP. most antient mythology in the world3; and as being worthy of a much more careful keeping than it seems to have here met with, where, from the disregard shewn to its preservation, it is not likely to remain for any considerable length of time. Another curiosity shewn here is more in unison with the taste of a people who preserve among their reliques many a sanguinary testimony of the deeds of murder committed in this country; namely, the coat worn by Eric the son of Steno Sture, his shirt, silk Eric. breeches, and purse, when he was stabbed by Eric the Fourteenth; the place where the wound was inflicted being visible, owing to the marks of blood which flowed from the unfortunate victim. Here is also shewn a more singular standard than perhaps was ever used in any country to excite the valour of its troops: nor do the Swedes, in battle, stand in need of any artificial trophies to call their bravery into action; being, by nature, warlike. It is nothing

(3) According to Mr. Core, a correct delineation of this image occurs in the Monumenta Ullarekarensia of Perinskiold.

(4) See Core's Travels, vol. IV. p. 137. Lond. 1786. for the description of the monument of the illustrious family of the Stures, and for the interesting inscription upon their tomb, which is in a small chapel of this Cathedral.

CHAP.
I.

Shift of Margaret.

more than a dirty rag, fixed to a staff, like a banner; and called Margaret's Shift, or Shirt. The history of it does not seem to be very well known all that we could gather respecting it, has been stated by our own countryman, Mr. Coxe; who says of it, that it was found by the Swedes at Nuremberg, when they captured the place; and afterwards by them deposited here, in honour of the Semiramis of the North'. Lastly, we were shewn the magnificent robes worn by the Archbishop and other Clergy upon great festivals: they are principally of velvet, embroidered with gold. This collection is kept in a sacristy, up a small flight of stone steps, near the Gothic window of the cathedral: the reliques are preserved in a chamber closed by double doors of massive iron, with ponderous rusty locks.

After seeing the Cathedral, we went to the New Bota- NEW BOTANIC GARDEN and Green-houses; in

nic Garden. which latter are apartments for Professor Afzelius, the Demonstrator of Botany, as he is here

(1) See Core's Travels, vol. IV. p. 141. Lond. 1786.-" How this shift," observes the same author, "was first procured by the inhabitants of Nuremberg, why it was there considered as a relique, and the exact period when it was imported into Sweden, I must leave to be ascertained by those who are disposed to trace its history and adventures. I did not learn, however, that it has ever had the honour of giving a name to any particular colour, like the shift of Isabella, Queen of Castile."

I.

called, and also for Professor Thunberg. To CHAP. this place all the collection formed by Professor Thunberg, in his extensive travels, was at this time about to be removed; the Professor having presented it to the University, for public use. The plan was, to place the whole in one oblong room of very considerable grandeur, but certainly not sufficiently capacious to exhibit it to advantage. The Museum ought to have been of the same dimensions as the Green-house, which runs parallel to it, and will perhaps be the first Conservatory of the kind in Europe. They were already beginning to move the plants into this Green-house, from the Old Botanic Garden. In the front of the building is the new Lecture Room, with a magnificent dome and a sky-light. Immediately under this dome is placed the Professor's Chair; and behind the cathedral is a bust of Linnæus, to whose memory both this building and also the New Botanic Garden may be considered as sacred. As to the garden itself, when considered with reference to a University that has done so much for the science of Botany, it can hardly be deemed worthy of Upsala. It consists of six Swedish acres of ground, lying beneath the windows of the Palace, and on its western side. But it contains nothing remarkable; and the

I.

CHAP. wretched taste which has been shewn in laying it out may be conceived, when it is mentioned, that an avenue of clipped fir-trees, barbarously cut into more artificial and formal shapes than ever characterized a Dutchman's garden, lead from the entrance to the Green-house.

Lecture
Room.

Setting aside the ugly formality of this appearance', there is another reason for desiring the removal of such an avenue, in the injury done to the garden. The roots of so many fir-trees, occupying a considerable portion of the ground, must have a pernicious tendency in obstructing the growth of plants: and surely in Sweden, which is one vast region of firs, from Scania to Lapmark, an addition of this kind was not required for the Botanic garden of its principal University. The whole of this new establishment, including the Green-house, Museum, Lecture Room, Garden, &c. may be considered

(1) Which is nevertheless a relique of Roman taste, as appears from a passage of Pliny's Letters before cited. See Vol. IX. of these Travels, p. 58. Note (2.) Octavo Edition.