IX. Journey from Abo to Helsing fors. the weather during the night—Arrival at Wibourg— Appearance of the Soldiers of the Garrison-Mode of inflicting punishment on Deserters-Inhabitants of Wibourg-Arrival at Petersburg. CHAP. THE journey from Abo to Helsingfors, in the summer time, affords a series of prospects, which, in their character, cannot be equalled in the Swedish dominions; but in the winter season, it is performed under circumstances of so much dreary uniformity, that the traveller is glad to pass over it with all possible expedition. In this long route, therefore, little will now be said respecting any particular part of it: the only objects attracting notice, being the houses of relay; which are much the same everywhere, seldom rising to mediocrity as to the accommodations they offer, but situate in a country full of picturesque beauty. This part of Finland is much cultivated: the forests having been cleared, and enclosures made, of course the population is greater than in other places. The whole country appears decked with farm-houses and village churches, rising to the view, or falling from it, over an undulating district, amidst woods, and water, and rocks, and large loose masses of granite: it may be called Norway in miniature and the extraordinary novelty to an English traveller, of seeing vessels gliding out, the as if from the woods, among which are so many bays, lakes, and little inland seas, in that season of the year when the ice has not locked up waters, is as delightful as it is striking. Higher up the country, towards the north, there are scenes which were described to us as unrivalled in the world. Every charm which the effect of cultivation can give to the aspect of a region where Nature's wildest features-headlong cataracts, lakes, majestic rivers, and forests are combined, may there be seen. The road from Abo to Peike, the first stage, one Swedish mile and a half, is broader than the generality of roads in Sweden, and very good. Here we found the people speaking Finnish, of which we understood very little. Our next stage, to Vistu, was through a tract of land surrounded by hills sprinkled with firs, calling to our mind the scenery near Gothenburg in Sweden, where all the hills seemed formed into basins. As we proceeded, the country was broken with woods and forests of birch and fir; and on our right we had, occasionally, views of inlets, or bays of the sea. From the information of some travellers who passed through the part of Swedish Finland that lies between Abo and Louisa, we found that nothing could be more incorrect than the account they had received at Stockholm CHAP. IX. CHAP. respecting the face and nature of the country. They had been told, that they would see one continued black forest: instead of this, the tract, through which they passed, in the month of August, presented, frequently, scenery of a most beautiful and picturesque nature. The soil, in some places, was extremely fertile; the pasture lands very rich; and the crops of corn, of which a great quantity is exported from this part of the country, abundant. Descrip tion of Helsingfors. By the friendship of Baron D'Armfeldt, upon our arrival at Helsingfors, we were conducted to the famous fortress of Sweaborg; perhaps, after Gibraltar, the strongest in Europe. It is very difficult to obtain admission: and we were told that even the Baron, who was second in command in the garrison, could not procure for us leave to enter. But when he presented us to the General, the latter, after being assured that we were not travelling in any military character, permitted the Baron, and a captain of marines, to conduct us over it. I must, however, first speak of Helsingfors, as it occurs first in order. It is a small but handsome town, containing many stone houses; and, considering the size of it, carries on a very active trade: the shopkeepers deal with the neighbouring farmers, and, as at Abo, with the Finns, who descend in num bers in the winter. IX. The town was crowded with CHAP. them, when we were there. The foreign commerce, as well as that of the south of Finland, is exclusively with Spain, to which country it conveys deal planks, and brings back salt; the return with this article being considered of great importance. Helsingfors, like Åbo and Louisa, is renowned for its deal planks; some of which we found to be twelve feet in length and two inches in thickness, perfectly fair, and very free from knots. Twelve of them, when shipped, cost, including all expenses, two rix-dollars and a half of the paper currency; about eight shillings English, according to the present state of exchange, which must render the profit very high. The expense of building vessels is not great here; and it is still less in the Gulf of Bothnia. A ship of 150 Swedish lasters may be purchased for six thousand rix-dollars; and many well-constructed trading brigs do not cost more than two thousand. Of all the deals exported from the Gulf of Finland, those of Frederickshamm, a town in the Russian dominions, are preferred by the Spanish merchants. The houses have an appearance of comfort; and the inhabitants, we were informed, lived in perfect harmony and good-will among each other. We experienced great attention and IX. CHAP. politeness from many of them. Nothing can be more gay and pleasing than the scene, exhibited on the ice, from Helsingfors to the fortress of Sweaborg, which is situate on an island, distant two English miles. The road is marked on the snow by trees, or large branches of the pine, planted in the ice. Sledges of all sizes and descriptions, open and covered, of business, burthen, or pleasure, plain or decorated, with beautiful little prancing Finland horses, are seen moving with the utmost rapidity, backwards and forwards, the whole way, from morning to night. Officers with their servants, ladies, soldiers, peasants, artificers, engineers, form a crowded promenade, more interesting and amusing than that of Hyde Park in London, or the Corso at Rome. Sweaborg. Fortress of The entrance to the fortress of Sweaborg is by a long and narrow arched way. Every thing around us-the massive walls, numerous batteries, intricate mazes, the prodigious quantity of cannon, and the swarms of soldiers, sentries, posts of guard-announced the strength and consequence of the place. Our passports and persons underwent, as we entered, a very rigid examination. The house of the Commandant and principal officers is a lofty white edifice, placed on an eminence, over the gateway. On an area immediately before it, stands the simple Tomb of Count Ernsverd. |