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curiosity got the better of our feelings, and we went to see the mode in which the Russians inflict punishment on their soldiers, for desertion. Five hundred men were drawn up, in three lines, forming two alleys, through which the deserter was to pass six times. A drummer preceded him, to prevent his walking too fast; and each soldier had a stick, with which he struck him. As soon as the punishment began, we turned another way; but were informed, afterwards, that it was more severe than we should have expected from the size of the sticks. Many soldiers desert into Swedish Finland; but they are frequently apprehended, in their attempts to reach the frontier, by the peasants; who are exasperated against them, on account of the robberies which they commit in their flight, for the purpose of supporting themselves. Five silver roubles are the reward for taking a deserter.

CHAP.

IX.

Russian

mode of punish

inflicting

ment on Deserters:

of Wibourg:

The inhabitants of Wibourg are partly Russians Inhabitants and partly Finns. The former are generally distinguished by their beards: in their dress, they have the appearance of Jews, a long loose coat being tied round the waist with a sash. The Finland girls wear their hair drawn together, and fastened at the back of the head with a little circular roll, and a pin stuck through it. The principal articles in request in this

IX.

CHAP. town, as luxuries, are, French brandy, sugar, wine, and coffee, all of which are very dear. The Finns, who bring corn and planks to Wibourg, return with salt. Here, and at Frederickshamm, we found the finest bread we had ever tasted. On inquiring the price of provisions, we were informed that a sack of rye of nine pouds cost seven roubles; which is not higher than it was two or three years ago, though double or triple of what it was twenty or twentyfive years since.

From Wibourg, we proceeded, through Konuta and Rorwer, to Pampola, a distance of sixty-two versts, over a flat country, passing through forests of fir and birch trees. Pampola is rather a large village: we observed the gable-ends of the houses always turned towards the road: the only openings which were left for light were, one small window with glass, and two holes on each side without any; all placed at the same end of the house. At Bulostrof, thirty-eight versts distant from Pampola, we entered one of the peasant's cottages, a wretched abode quite black with smoke: the holes for light, on each side of the window, were not so much as a foot square. There appeared to be two families, consisting of two men, two women, and five or six children: the latter did not look so unhealthy

as we might have expected from the extreme heat and dirt of the room. A bench, round two sides of the cottage, appeared to be the general sleeping-place. They expressed great surprise on our entering; and one of the women, on my offering to her a five-copeek piece, stared, and refused to take it. I then placed it on the table, where was some bread; of which they offered me a piece, in return for the money. The bread was of rye, dark-coloured, little baked, but had not a bad taste.

In going to Drasnicof, we passed through the same land of country as before; but the firs were of larger size. The roads are made, in general, with small trees, thrown across, and covered with dirt and sand. When the trees are decayed, or recently laid down, the motion of the carriage is extremely rough and unpleasant.

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Petersburg.

The view of Petersburg presented itself to us Arrival at at some distance before we arrived at the last barrier, where our passports were examined. We then entered a broad and perfectly straight avenue; the further extremity being terminated by the domes and palaces of the city.

[graphic][merged small][merged small]

General appearance of the City-Novelty of the Scene exhibited in the Dresses and Figures of the Inhabitants -Expense in the mode of living among the Higher Ranks-Collections of Art, in the possession of Individuals-Amusements of the different Classes of Society -Ice-Hills-Visit to some of the Public InstitutionsAcademy of Sciences-Library attached to it-Museum -valuable Collections, in different branches of Natural History, preserved there-PETER THE FIRST-Academy of Fine Arts-nature of the Institution-FortressTombs of the Imperial Family-Mint-Statue of Peter the First-defect of taste in the Artist-expense

of

of the Work-Hermitage-Pictures-Hall of St. George
-Palaces of Peterhof and Oranienbaum-State of the
Peasantry-Mode of managing the estates of the Russian
Nobility-Checks to Population.

WE reached the first gate of Petersburg about
eleven o'clock; and were ordered by the sentinel
to stop, and descend from our carriage. Our
passports were presented, as usual; but he
would not even lift up his arm to take them: it
was contrary to order, he said, to receive them;
and we must go ourselves to the officer upon
guard; by whom we were detained half an
hour, and then sent with a sentinel to the city.
We approached it by its most beautiful quarter,
crossing the Neva upon the ice, which was
covered with sledges; and landed again oppo-
site to the Marble Palace.

X.

appearance

of the city.

The united magnificence of all the cities of General Europe could but equal Petersburg. There is nothing little or mean, to offend the eye-all is grand, extensive, large, and open. The streets, which are wide and straight, seem to consist entirely of palaces: the edifices are white, lofty, and regular. At first sight, the whole city appears to be built with stone; but on a nearer inspection, you find the walls are of brick, covered with plaister; yet every part is so clean and in such excellent order, and has an appear

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