11.

CHAP. in the most perfect order. Its meetings are held in one of the grandest edifices in Stockholm, fronting the water, and commanding a noble prospect of the principal buildings of the city. Being conducted thither, we entered a suite of magnificent apartments, elegantly furnished, and in all respects remarkable for the neatness and propriety everywhere displayed. One room is appropriated to reading: and here all the principal Gazettes published in Europe, together with all sorts of periodical works, French, German, Danish, and Dutch Papers, are found lying upon the tables, for general use. There is, moreover, a secrétaire, fitted up with all sorts of conveniences for writing. Every evening, all these apartments are lighted up with wax candles. In the reading-room, the most perfect silence prevails; and in a chamber adjoining, there are couches for repose. Beyond this is the ball-room; and farther on are separate rooms for billiards, cards, and for eating. In the ballroom are suspended the printed Rules of the Society, in the French and Swedish languages. Strangers are permitted to enjoy all the privileges of the club during two months; but if they remain longer in Stockholm, they must be presented a second time and become members, or be excluded. Every member subscribes

II.

twelve rix-dollars annually to the fund. The CHAP. dinners and suppers here are excellent, every thing being cheap and good, and the expense small. A dinner, without wine, costs only sixteen-pence English; and, until lately, the price was lower. The servants of the Society speak French, German, and Swedish; and are all clad in the livery of the club. There is, morever, always in waiting, a Directeur, or Maître d'hôtel, who superintends all minor affairs, attends at and directs the order and serving of the dinners, and collects the payment due from the several guests. The apartments remain open during the whole day. We have seldom enjoyed a more pleasing relaxation, or met with more agreeable company than we found here. Having several friends with whom we used to associate at the Society', we came daily to this place; and, in fact, there is no place in Europe where foreigners engaged in travel will meet with better company, more polished manners, or less restraint. Add to this the luxury of being, for once at least in Scandinavia, in an assembly where smoking and spitting are not allowed.

(1) In this number were, the celebrated Brougham; Acerbi, the Lapland traveller; Mr. now Sir Charles Stewart; the Rev. Mr. Kent, and Mr. Jarrett, whom we had before seen in Norway; and Mr. Bellotti.

11.

CHAP. The most perfect order prevails in all the apartments; every one being at liberty to enter, or retire without form, as he pleases'. Some persons belonging to the Court, who were proposed as members, had been rejected in the ballot; at which the King was much displeased, and endeavoured, as it was said, to withdraw the courtiers from their attendance. If this were true, it had not produced the desired effect; for the numbers, instead of being diminished, had lately been considerably increased; the first families in Stockholm being the most regular visitants.

As in all large cities, the traveller must expect to meet with less of the characteristic hospitality of the Swedes in Stockholm, than in other parts of the kingdom; and it is here, in particular, that his reception will a good deal depend upon the relative state of politics with regard to his own country. We found our situation somewhat altered, since our last visit, by the degree of coolness which had sprung up

(1) An establishment of this nature, under the name of "The United Service Club," has been lately founded in London, which seems to be conducted upon a similar plan.

(2) "Plus on s'approche de la capitale, moins on aperçoit cette respectable bonhomie, qui caractérise généralement le paysan Suédois des provinces." Promenade en Suède, par De Latochnaye, tom. I. p. 62. Brunswick, 1801.

between the Court and our Minister.

Neither CHAP.

II.

blance to

is there much in the place itself to afford instruction or amusement. Excepting the great square of Nordermalm, the streets, though of very considerable length, are neither broad nor handsome. There is no foot pavement; and the shops are everywhere wretched. The houses are lofty, and they are all white-washed. The Resemdifferent families, as in Italy, reside upon sepa- Italian rate floors, or stories, one above another; the ground-floor being appropriated to shops, and the upper stories to private families. There is, moreover, a resemblance between the customs of the two countries. If a stranger have any business to execute among the tradesmen, and be not careful to set about it before noon, the whole day is lost. At mid-day, every body is

at dinner: the merchants have then left their counters, and the shops are shut. Afterwards they are all fast asleep; which at this season of the year is the more inconvenient, because as soon as they awake it is dark. Two hours may be deemed the whole of the time allowed for daily affairs abroad,-from ten in the morning until twelve. Before ten it is not usual for families to make their appearance; and if after this time a traveller remain in his lodgings, engaged as he is very likely to be with his own

Customs.

II.

CHAP. private affairs, it is in vain that he endea vours afterwards to get any thing done in the

Booksellers.

Public
Dinners.

town.

One of the first things it is natural to seek for, in arriving at any place upon the Continent, is a bookseller's shop: but the booksellers here have no catalogues; or if any thing of this kind be produced, it is written wholly in the Swedish language. And with regard to the dealers themselves, never were persons of their profession so little likely to recommend their wares, as the booksellers of Stockholm. If a customer enter, they rise not from their seats to assist him in looking over the dusty lumber of their warehouses and if they were disposed to shew him this civility, the search would be in vain; because the books, not being bound, but lying in quires, and confusedly mixed together, can only be regarded as so many reams of paper in a stationer's shop.

When Englishmen are invited to dine with the inhabitants, it is a constant practice to prepare a quantity of what is called roast-beef for their reception at table: and the opinion which all foreigners have, that we cannot dine without a copious allowance of animal food, especially of beef, is very diverting. The host gathers consequence to himself in having provided this