pomatums, patches, powder, and wire, the prices of which are not given.

The muffs here spoken of were very fashionable about the year 1710; but their diminutive size seemed to intimate that they were invented only for fashion's sake, for they were much too small to be of any use.

The riding habit, which first appeared under the reign of Charles II., was still looked upon with animadversion even in the reign of Queen Anne, as we find by the following remarks of Addison: "Among the several female extravagancies I have already taken notice of, there is one which still keeps its ground. I mean that of the ladies who dress themselves in a hat and feather, a riding-coat and a perriwig, or at least tie up their hair in a bag or ribbon, in imitation of the smart part of the opposite sex."

This graceful writer also affords us an account of one of these equestrian ladies: "His hair, well curled and powdered, hung to a considerable length on his shoulders, and was tied as if by the hand of his mistress with a scarlet ribband, which played like a streamer behind him; he had a coat and waistcoat of blue camlet trimmed and embroidered with silver, a cravat of the finest lace, and wore, in a smart cock, a little beaver hat edged with silver, and made more sprightly by a feather. As I was pitying the luxury of this young person, who appeared to me to have been only educated as an object of sight, I perceived on my nearer approach, and as I turned my eye downward, a part of the equipage I had not observed before, which was a petticoat of the same as the coat and waistcoat."

In one of the portraits of Queen Anne, her dress is much like that worn in France under Louis XIV. Her robe, of rich brocade, is made half high, and cut square round the bosom, with a fall of lace. Her hair is drawn off the forehead, and arranged in curls to the top of the head, interspersed with pearls, and long ringlets fall gracefully down upon her shoulders; a style of coiffure much preferable to the stiff, towering head-dresses, that had been the fashion during the first years of her reign.

Fans were now very much used; ladies seldom appeared without this useful ornament in their hands. The fan was adorned with every variety of bird, beast, landscape, and figure; and even when out in a carriage or at church it was still held ready to be furled or unfurled at pleasure.

From various allusions to different parts of a lady's dress, in works printed at the beginning of the eighteenth century we find that the shape and form of attire was no longer distinguished by that modesty which had characterized it till the sixteenth century. "If," says Addison, "we survey the pictures of our great-grandmothers in Queen Elizabeth's time, we see them clothed down to the very wrists, and up to the very chin. The hands and face were the only samples they gave of their beautiful persons. The following age of females made larger discoveries of their complexion. They, first of all, tucked up their garments to the elbow, and, notwithstanding the tenderness of the sex, were content, for the information of mankind, to expose their arms to the coldness of the air and injuries of the weather."

Not long after this the petticoats were shortened,

the gowns lowered to a degree that was very offensive to modesty, and altogether the dress of a lady of fashion, modelled exactly upon that of the French, was much censured by writers of the period.

Notwithstanding all that had been said, written, and preached against the hoop, which now replaced the fardingale in the toilette of the élégantes, it remained a favourite till the nineteenth century, when George IV. banished it altogether.

Long gloves began to be worn by the ladies in this reign.

The costume of the gentlemen, though not so preposterous as that of the ladies, still frequently fell under the reproof of rigid critics. The large, full-bottomed wigs, especially, were severely censured. In the reign of Queen Mary, Archbishop Tillotson thus speaks of this new fashion: "I can remember," he says, "since the wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first magnitude; and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did either find, or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair, and if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal.”

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These immense wigs, we are told, were named Duvilliers," from a perruquier of that name who first invented them. Of the same family, though of much smaller dimensions, were the nightcap wigs, the campaign, major, bag, and riding wigs; and it is said that thirty pounds was not considered at all a large price for a full-sized peruke.

Hats now engaged much attention. Sometimes the brim stood straight up all round; at others the

right or the left sides were elevated, or, perhaps, both; and small three-cornered hats, trimmed with gold or silver lace, and adorned with feathers, came into fashion.

The coats were of a square form, the waistcoats immensely long, with large pockets, and the stockings, though fastened below the knees with garters, were still worn pulled up far above them. The cuffs of the coats were wide, hanging, and trimmed with lace ruffles; while the skirts, it is said, rivalled the hoop-petticoat in size, being stiffened out with wire.

The legs gloried in bright, blue or red stockings, with clocks of gold and silver. The feet were encased in broad

toed shoes, with red heels, and the throat was wrapped in a lace tie.

To complete the costume, we must not omit to mention that the petit-maitres of that day wore long swords peeping from under the skirts of their coats, and had fringed gloves, also embroidered pocket-handkerchiefs. When the ties disappeared, Steinkirks, berdashes, and lastly, cravats, were worn.

In Walpole's" Anecdotes of Painting," we find that in the reign of George I. "the habits of the times were shrunk into awkward coats and waistcoats for the men; and for the women, to tight-laced gowns, round

hoops, and half-a-dozen squeezed plaits of linen, to which dangled behind two unmeaning pendants, called lappets, not half covering their straight-drawn hair." To this description we may add small caps, some of which scarcely covered the top of the head, while others, frilled and puffed in small plaits, lay upon the forehead.

The hoop now underwent many important changes;

sometimes it projected at the sides only, or, like its ancestor the fardingale, it spread itself all round in imposing majesty, covered with a short jupe, deprived of its flowing train.

The high-heeled shoes remained. Tight sleeves with full ruffles; small-pointed waists enclosed in whalebone; loose gowns called sacques; and cloaks with hoods named cardinals, were now la grande mode.