Among the gentlemen's costumes the most striking novelty of this time was the Ramilie tail, which was a plaited tail to the wig, with an immense bow at the top, and a smaller one at the bottom. To Lord Bolingbroke the élégantes are indebted for the fashion of tying the hair, which hitherto had been formed into curls on the back of the neck.

Hats were of every shape. The nether garments were fastened below the knees, and the stockings no longer covered them. The following account is given of the dress of this time: "I suffered my hair," says the writer, "to grow long enough to comb back over the foretop of my wig, which, when I sallied forth to my evening amusement, I changed to a queue; I tied the collar of my shirt with half an ell of black ribbon, which appeared under my neckcloth; the fore-corner of my hat was considerably elevated and shortened, so that it no longer resembled a spout, but the corner of a minced pye; my waistcoat was edged with narrow lace, my stockings were silk, and I never appeared without a pair of gloves."

The same writer tells us that a few years previously he wore (having cut off his hair) a brown bob periwig, with a single row of curls round the bottom, nicely combed and without powder. He adds that his hat was of the fashionable shape; the fore-corner projected nearly two inches further than those on each side, and was moulded into the form of a spout.

In the reign of George II. the pigtail, that favourite ornament of sailors in later years, first appeared, and it banished the Ramilie tail and tie. Bob-wigs followed in its train; sometimes they were powdered, and a few brave spirits actually ventured to wear their own hair curled and profusely powdered.

A large worked hat was now imported from GerHindys it *** named the Keverinule and thus described by a writer of the time: shaped like in quilateral triangle, placed with the must meHematical precision on the head, somevin elemed lesland, and sloping on an unvarying angle downwards to the syss, surrounded by a long, stiff formal feather, nsing from a large rosette of black rand on the dealer side,"

The hoop, during the first few years of the reign of Gigs 11, appeared to have lost the favour of The Bolt votaries of fashion; its ascendancy visity dechud, perhaps in consequence of a pamphlet which was published against it, entitled, "The TIDOUS alomination of the Hoop-petticoat as the fashion

Caps and straw hats now flourished, and aprons Bids much worn even in full dress. Capuchins repassad the hoods of former reigns, and patches reapjaaral, though but for a very short time. A new Flug for the head, too-which was neither a cap m a bommet was also invented at this time: it was Calhat a cox, and was made of silk, plaited closely

I work published in 1753, speaks of caps the size of a china plate having dwindled down to the breadth of half-a-crown, and then vanished. We also read: "They Wear no cap, and only substitute in its room a variety of trumpery ribbons, tied up with no other propriety than the present fit

shall happen to duvet."

In one of the old Norfolk journals we find the following: "Several fine ladies, who used to wear French silks, French hoops four yards wide, tête de mouton heads, and white satin smock petticoats, are now turned Methodists, and followers of Mr. Whitfield, whose doctrine of the new birth has so prevailed over them, that they now wear plain stuff gowns, no hoops, common night-mobs, and old plain bags."

The author of a work appearing at about the same time remarks: "Of all branches of the female dress no one has undergone more alterations than that of the head. The long lappets, the horse-shoe cap, the Brussels head, and the prudish mob, pinned under the chin, have all of them had their day. The present mode has voted out all these superfluous excrescences, and in the room of a slip of cambric, or lace, has planted a whimsical sprig of spangles, or artificial flowers. We may remember when, for a while, the hair was tortured into ringlets behind; at present it is braided into a queue. If the caps have passed through many metamorphoses, no less a change has been brought about in the other coverings contrived for the head. The diminutive high-crowned hat, the bonnet, the hive, and the milk-maid's chip hat, were rescued for a time from old women and servant-girls, to adorn the heads of the first fashion. Nor was the method of cocking hats less fluctuating, till they were at length settled to the present mode, by which it is ordained, that every hat, whether of straw or silk, whether of the chambermaid or mistress, must have their flaps turned up both before and behind. If the end of a fine lady's dress was not rather ornamental than useful, we should think it a little odd that hats,

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which seem naturally to be intended to screen their faces from the heat or severity of the weather, should be moulded into a shape that prevented their answering either of these purposes; but we must, indeed, allow it to be highly ornamental, as the present hats worn by the women are more bold and impudent than the broad-brimmed staring Kevenhullers worn a few years ago by the men. These hats are also decorated with two waving pendants of ribbon, hanging down from the brim on the left side."

The two head-dresses annexed were fashionable about this time. The hair was drawn over a cushion to a great height, and surmounted by a handkerchief of lace, or fine gauze. Sometimes two ringlets were allowed to fall upon the neck,

or a long, narrow strip of lace, resembling a streamer, hung from the top to the shoulders. The cap was composed of riband and lace.

Pomatum and powder were much used by the ladies in their coiffures. But the most extraordinary invention for the adornment of the head, of this or any other age, was that of the capriole. An old poet thus speaks of this fantastical coiffure :

"Here, on a fair one's head-dress, sparkling sticks,
Swinging on silver springs, a coach and six;
There, on a sprig or slop'd pourpon, you see
A chariot, sulky, chaise, or vis-à-vis."

In the same poem we read :

"Nelly! where is the creature fled?

Put my post-chaise upon my head."

In a work written about the year 1757, we read : "Be it remembered that in this year many ladies of fortune and fashion, willing to set an example of prudence and economy to their inferiors, did invent and make public, without a patent, a machine for the head, in form of a post-chaise and horses, and another imitating a chair and chairmen, which were frequently worn by persons of distinction."

We have also the following description of this fashion: "Those heads which are not able to bear a coach and six (for vehicles of this sort are very apt to crack the brain) so far act consistently as to make use of a post chariot, or a single-horse chaise with a beau perching in the middle." The account then goes on to say: "The vehicle itself was constructed of gold threads, and was drawn by six dapple greys of blown glass, with a coachman, postilion, and gentleman within, of the same brittle manufacture. Upon further inquiry the milliner told me, with a smile, that it was difficult to give a reason for inventions so full of whim."

The prevailing fashion of powder was followed by women as well as men, so that with it and quantities of pomatum, the hair was stiffened out in large curls, or, being drawn back from the forehead, fell down en chignon. False hair was very generally worn, and every variety of coiffure: French curls that resembled eggs strung on a wire; Italian curls, done back from the face, and often called scallop shells; and German curls, which were a mixture of Italian and French. Behind, the hair was curled all over, and was called tête de mouton.

The quantities of powder and pomatum used at