were of undressed deer's hide, which, as the hair was worn outwards, procured for them the title of redshanks; but the present brogue is made of untanned leather, with holes to admit and let out the water. Thus we read:

"Speed, Malise, speed! the dun deer's hide

On fleeter foot was never tied."

To finish the national costume, we must mention. the bonnet, generally of blue cloth, of a round, flat shape, sometimes ornamented with an eagle's feather. A dirk, a knife and fork, a spoon, and a pair of pistols, were essential accompaniments to this garb, which, however, differed according to the rank of the wearer.

The short coat and waistcoat, which formed the dress of the wealthy, was adorned with silver buttons, tassels, embroidery, and lace, according to the fashion of the day; and it is remarked by General Stewart, that silver buttons frequently came to them from an inheritance of long descent. The reason they gave for wearing buttons of such massive silver was, that if the wearer died in battle, or at a distance from his home, their value would defray the expense of a handsome funeral.

For a great many years shirts were unknown among this people; and it is an old saying among them, that shirts and rheumatism came together.

It is asserted by many authors, that of all national garbs there is not one that can be compared to the Highland costume for beauty and gracefulness. Certainly in these peaceful times its utility may be ques

tioned; but at the time when it was used it would have been impossible to invent a more suitable one for activity and freedom of limb, although the old ballad, on the "Battle of the Bridge of Dee," does say:

"The Highlandmen are pretty men

For target and claymore;

But yet they are but naked men,
To face the cannon's roar."

The antiquity of the tartan is supposed to be very great. It is dyed, and the colours arranged with the greatest nicety, so as to preserve the patterns, or sets, as they are called, each of which represents a different clan, tribe, family, or district. Thus a Stuart, a Macdonald, a Campbell, &c. &c., was known by the colour and pattern of his plaid; and the Athole, Glenorchy, and other colours of different districts, were easily distinguished. These plaids are now made of the finest wool, and form dresses of the most beautiful texture, being soft, light, and very warm.

It is said that there were formerly different modes of wearing the plaid: one when on a peaceful journey, another when danger was apprehended; one way of enveloping themselves in it for repose, and another which enabled the wearer to start up, sword in hand, ready for the conflict, like the warriors of Roderick Dhu:

The rushes and the willow wand
Are bristling into axe and brand,
And every tuft of broom gives life

To plaided warrior armed for strife."

The dress of the Highland women was no less characteristic than that of the men. Until they mar

ried they always wore a riband, or, as it was called, a snood, with which alone they were allowed to ornament their hair; after they married they exchanged the snood for a curch, toy, or coif of linen, tied under the chin. Martin, in his observations on their dress, says: "The women wore sleeves of scarlet cloth, closed at the end as men's vests, with gold lace round them, having plate buttons set with fine stones. The

head-dress was a kerchief of fine linen, strait about the head. The plaid was tied before on the breast, with a buckle of silver, or brass, according to the quality of the person. I have seen some of the former, of one hundred merks value, the whole curiously engraved with various animals. There was a lesser buckle, which was worn in the middle of the larger; it had in the centre a large piece of crystal, or some fine stone, of a lesser size."

Pennant, in his Tour through Scotland, about the year 1769, remarks that, "the Highland women drew the tonnag, or plaid, over their heads in bad weather, or during the church service;" though by an edict made

by James II., in 1457, this habit of concealing the face, either at kirk or at market, was expressly prohibited. From a passage in the same statute, it appears that about that time Scotch head-dresses had risen to the height fashionable in other countries, for the edict goes on to say: "The wives and daughters are to wear on their heads little curchs with hoods; and as to their gowns, no woman is to wear fur of Martin skin, or lace, or tails of an unfit length, or furred, except on a holyday."

The snood, plaid, and brooch, were formerly worn by all women, whether of high or low degree. The material used by the higher orders, instead of wool, was silk or satin, and the brooch of a more precious metal than those worn by the lower classes. Thus we find in the beautiful description of Ellen :

"A chieftain's daughter seem'd the maid;
Her satin snood, her silken plaid,

Her golden brooch, such birth betray'd."

The plaid was formerly worn hanging from the neck nearly to the feet; it was tied round the waist, and was usually white, with stripes of red, black, or blue. The snood formed the only difference in dress between the matron and the young maiden; for bonnets were quite unknown among the Highland women, and a veil, though worn by women of almost every other nation, appears never to have made part of their

costume.

The higher classes, in the sixteenth century, seem to have followed the English fashions. Sir Walter Scott, aware of this fact, in the "Lay of the Last

Minstrel," describes Margaret as wearing the follow

ing dress :

"Of sable velvet her array;

And on her head a crimson hood,
With pearls embroidered and entwined;
Guarded with gold, with ermine lined,
A merlin sat upon her wrist,

Held by a leash of silken twist."

And, before the battle of Flodden, represents King
James in the following splendid attire:-

"An easy task it was, I trow,
King James's manly form to know,
Although, his courtesy to show,
He doffed, to Marmion bending low,
His broidered cap and plume.
For royal were his garb and mien,

His cloak, of crimson velvet piled, ·
Trimmed with the fur of marten wild;

His vest, of changeful satin sheen,
The dazzled eye beguiled;
His gorgeous collar hung adown,

Wrought with the badge of Scotland's crown,
The thistle brave, of old renown;

His trusty blade, Toledo right,
Descended from a baldric bright;

White were his buskins, on the heel
His spurs inlaid of gold and steel;

His bonnet, all of crimson fair,

Was buttoned with a ruby rare."

In the same poem occurs the description of the Scottish soldiers and their chiefs, giving their Highland dress as then worn :

"Just then the chiefs their tribes arrayed,

And wild and garish semblance made,