slashed near the wrist, and had a deep frill that fell over the back of the hand, and was held in by a band. The girdle was often of gold and jewels, supporting a rapier with a thick tassel hanging from it. The nether garment then the fashion, which formed drawers and stockings all in one piece, was usually of red or blue silk, and very tight; the shoes were no longer pointed, but quite square and clumsy-looking, fastened with a strap across the foot. They were sometimes richly ornamented, and boots of black satin, turned up with velvet and edged with gold, were also often worn. Indeed, much of the elegance of the costume of the period consisted in having the chaussure richly embroidered in gold, on satin or velvet.

The cap usually worn was of velvet, either red, blue, or black, studded with jewels and ornamented with several ostrich-feathers. When a cloak was added to the above costume, it was frequently of cloth of gold, lined with embroidered white satin, and trimmed with miniver; it seldom reached lower than half way down the leg, and was very wide and without a collar, having a long slit in either side to allow the arms to pass through. Sometimes, but not very frequently, the nether garment, or hosen, were striped in two colours; and the cloak often had large sleeves trimmed with fur. Occasionally the tunic was cut so low in front, that it much resembled a lady's gown. Jewels were used in great profusion to ornament every part of this dress, which was rich and splendid in the extreme.

The hair was worn considerably longer than in the preceding reigns.

Never was the love of splendour and magnificence

more fully displayed,

than at the period we

are now approaching;

viz. the time of the Champ d'Or, which has been long celebrated in the annals of the toilette. In the reign of Francis I., dress in England and in France was much alike; the same splendour and extravagance were displayed by both nations, for each seemed anxious to surpass the other in the richness and magnificence of their attire. Never was there such a display of silks, satins, velvets, cloth of gold and silver, feathers, laces, and jewels witnessed, as on the farfamed "Field of the

Cloth of Gold," where

FR

the two monarchs and their respective courts met as friends.

From this time the faces of the French noblesse

were no longer shaven; beards, whiskers, and mous

taches, were allowed to grow. Some writers account for this change by asserting that Francis was wounded in the face in battle, and allowed his whiskers to grow to hide the scar. Certainly his subjects eagerly followed the fashion set them by royalty; and, in a few years, beards, whiskers, and moustaches, flourished in all their glory.

The doublets were now reached nearly to the knee.

slashed with satin, and

Stockings were fastened

with rich jewelled garters; and full trunk-hose, puffed with satin, joined the stockings, and were ornamented with large bows of riband. bows of riband. Frequently, so bizarre were the fashions of the time that one stocking was white while the other was striped with blue and white. When the full doublet was not worn, the stockings and pantaloons met, and the former were clasped with a jewelled band. The pantaloons were often slashed with puffs of satin, and the surcoat also and sleeves to correspond. The body of the surcoat fitted tight to the shape, and was made square across the neck, so that the throat remained uncovered; the surcoat and the bottom of the sleeves were usually trimmed with broad lace.

The cloak was worn very short and wide, and was usually composed of velvet or cloth of gold, lined with satin, and ornamented with gold or miniver. A velvet cap, with feathers, and a jewelled band, and satin or velvet shoes, completed the costume. The cloak was considered rather as an addition to the elegance than to the utility of the costume; it was worn in the house, and formed part of the attire even in the ballroom. It was seldom, if ever, used for warmth or for the walking-dress. For these latter purposes, a

habit not unlike a wagoner's frock was worn. Its shape was singular; it had a deep square collar of fur, short, full sleeves that reached to the elbows, trimmed likewise with fur; and the coat itself did not quite cover the knees, while the legs were protected by long black boots, similar to those worn by many of the military at this day. Shoes at this period were of a singular shape, very square, and cut low, almost down to the toes.

At the far-famed "Field of the Cloth of Gold," the dress of Francis is thus described by Hall:-" His garment was a chesnew of cloth of silver, culponed with cloth of gold, of damask cantelwise, and guarded on the borders with Burgon bands. Over that he had a cloak of broached satin, with gold of purple colour, wrapped about his body, traverse-beded from the hip to the waist, fastened in the loupe of the first folde; this said cloak was richly set with pearls and pretious stones. The French king had on his head a coif of damask gold set with diamonds, and his courser that he rode was covered with a trapping of tissue, bordered with device, cut in fashion mantell-wise; the skirts were embowed and fret with frized work, and knit with corbelles and buttons tasseled of Turkie, making raines and headstall answering to the same work."

At this same magnificent display of beauty, rank, and splendour, our national chronicler reluctantly admits, that the ladies of France surpassed their fair rivals in the richness and elegance of their habiliments; and this was no doubt felt by Queen Catherine and her attendants, as we mentioned, in the reign of Henry VIII., that the English ladies at that time

were devoted to French modes. Queen Claude certainly seems quite to have abandoned the strait sleeves and grave costume usually worn by Anne of Brittany; for we find her and her ladies wearing sumptuous apparel, and she is celebrated for introducing from Spain the fashion of wearing a hoop, or, as it was called by the French, a vertugadin. This curious machine swelled the petticoats out to an immense size at the bottom of the dress, while the waist, being much compressed, and ending in a long point, gave the figure a strange appearance. The whalebones, of which this pannier was composed, formed a small circle near the top, and gradually enlarged, till the lower hoop spread the petticoat out to its fullest extent.

Over this was worn a satin garment, richly embroidered, and an open gown of velvet, worked in patterns of gold and silver, trimmed with fringe. This robe met at the point of the waist, but gradually became more open, till, at the bottom of the dress, from the size of the hoop, it spread out on each side, giving a full view of the embroidered satin petticoat. The waist was quite tight, and finished at the bosom with a chemisette of fine lace, so that the neck was covered almost to the throat.

Under-sleeves of satin were worn slashed, or else embroidered, to match the petticoat, and had full cuffs at the wrists; over them were tight velvet sleeves like the robe, finished at the elbows with an immense deep sort of manche of fur, that hung from each arm nearly to the ground. Round the waist was a girdle of jewels and a splendid cordelière, that terminated at the bottom of the petticoat with a large brooch.

The hair was plain on the forehead, and over it