coloured borders, and black handkerchiefs pinned over the bosom within the stomacher, or crossed over the lacing of the boddice, which has a frill round the waist behind. The sleeves are frequently trimmed at the hands with fur; sometimes, however, they are short, and have a white frill at the elbows, and the lower part of the arms is covered with neat knitted mittens, generally black, with coloured patterns. The hair is drawn from the face, plaited and twisted round the back of the head, where it is held firm gold pins of a great length. On their heads they wear immense caps, with plaited crowns, sometimes ornamented with a feather or a bunch of flowers, often weighing six or seven pounds. Their shoes are of black leather, and their legs are wrapped in short stockings, or rather leggings, for they do not cover the foot, but reach from the knee to the ankle, leaving the instep quite bare. The men wear these leggings of linen or cotton, very large and loose, tied round the

ankle, and looped up to the nether garments behind the knee, which is always uncovered.

The jackets of the men resemble short coats, and are lined and bordered with some gay colour. Their vests seem made in imitation of the boddices of the women, being of every shade of scarlet, green, and yellow, with black and white stripes. The throat is generally bare, or a large black neckcloth is tied loosely round it. The nether garments are ornamented with patterns in white thread, and are so

short that the knees are quite uncovered. The hats, usually of green felt, are shaped like a cone, have narrow brims, and a feather or bunch of ribands stuck on one side, which gives them a gay and lively

appearance.

In Prussia, as in many other countries, French modes and fashions completely effaced all remains of national costume, so much so, that even patching was adopted by the fair sex; and an author of the last century, speaking of that country, says: "This practice has been followed here. The damsels frequently cut their patches in the shape of flies, beetles, hares, asses, bears, sheep, oxen, and hogs; so that the French have not devised any thing, be it ever so silly and absurd, that the Germans have not made still more silly and absurd in the imitation."

In "Frederic the Great and his Times," we have the following account of the wedding-dress of the daughter of Frederick I. in 1709: "The jewels worn by the bride were valued at four millions of dollars. She had a coronet, set with diamonds and pear-shaped pearls, which alone was estimated at one million; her train was borne by six maids of honour, who, on account of the great weight of the precious stones with which it was garnished, had two pages to assist them. The total weight of the bridal attire is said to have been nearly a hundred pounds." The dress of the king, in 1713, is thus described :

"The dress of the king was simple. He appeared in a large flowing wig, for the last time, at the funeral of his father. The king, we are told by Pollnitz, had the finest hair in the world-of a light brown-but he had it cut off, and for a long time wore a wig with

a tail; but in the latter years of his life he had close and almost white wigs, in which, though they were ill made, he looked extremely well. Till 1719 he dressed sometimes in plain clothes, sometimes in uniform; but in the following years he was scarcely ever seen but in the uniform of colonel of the Potsdam Grenadiers, blue turned up with red, yellow waistcoat and breeches, white linen gaiters with brass buttons, and squaretoed shoes. Every thing was made to fit very tight. His hat was three-cornered, with a narrow gold lace, gilt button without loop, and a band of gold thread with two small gold tassels. When not in uniform, the king wore a brown coat and red waistcoat, with a narrow gold border. He was so saving of a good coat, that, when engaged in his cabinet, he would put on linen sleeves and an apron. He was a decided enemy to gaudy dresses and new fashions; and as, while yet a boy, he had vowed vengeance against French wigs and gold brocade dresses, so they still continued to be the objects of his displeasure. He observed, with indignation, that the large laced hats and bags, in which Count Rothenburg and his retinue appeared in public, found admirers at court. To prevent imitation, he ordered, at the great review held at Tempelhoff, near Berlin, in 1719, that the regimental provosts, who, like the executioners and skinners, are reputed infamous, should appear in the new French costume, only with the brims of the hats and the bags enlarged to an extravagant size. Paint was prohibited."

In Moore's "France," we find the wardrobe-roll of Frederick of Prussia. Its contents are not a little different, in number and simplicity, from the extrava

gance and splendour of many of the monarchs whom we have mentioned in this little work. "The whole wardrobe consisted of two blue coats, faced with red, the lining of one a little torn; two yellow waistcoats, three pair of yellow breeches, and a suit of blue velvet, embroidered with silver, for great occasions."

THE TOILETTE IN SPAIN.

CHAPTER XXIII.

HE dresses worn by the inhabitants of Spain are varied and tasteful, and in some respects totally different from those belonging to other nations. In a work entitled "A Summer in Andalusia," we find the following remarks upon the dress of this country:

"The mysterious mantilla is always black or white, the former being the prevalent colour, and invariably worn in winter; the white has a very pretty effect, especially if the wearer be a rubia, or of fair complexion. The white are always of lace, but the black are of all materials; from the rich lace of the upper ranks, the silk with a wide border of lace of the