tradesmen's wives, or edged with velvet, a grade lower, to the coarse mantilla of punto of the lowest classes."

The basquina of Cadiz is pretty much like a modern English gown, with full sleeves, though these are short, and do not cover the arms. It was formerly adorned with deep flounces, and trimmed with a profusion of braid; but such are now rarely seen except on the stage or in the interior of the country. Though in winter the basquina, as well as the mantilla, is usually black-the ancient and genuine hue of the whole costume-still in summer

gowns of other colours are worn; either white, or of some dark shade of purple, crimson, brown, or green. The legs and feet are cased in networked stockings and sandalled slippers.

One peculiarity in the dress of the ladies of Spain consists in wearing fresh flowers in the hair, which form a beautiful contrast with the dark complexions and mantillas. The comb worn in the hair is generally about the size of those used in this country. The fan is as universally seen as the mantilla: a Spa

nish woman is seldom without it, even within doors. The favourite fashion of dressing the hair among the Andalusians consists in parting it in the middle, smoothing it over the forehead, and bringing it down into one large thin curl, flattened against each temple, and called the love-twist.

U

The most important part of the Spaniard's costume

is the capa, or cloak. The lower
orders wear it of a dark choco-
late colour, faced with crimson
plush, or cotton velvet; while
that worn by the higher classes
is of blue or black cloth, faced
with rich black silk velvet, and
frequently lined throughout with
taffety. The cloak is not-a
winter garment alone; in the
hottest days of summer it is
often worn, as in obedience to
the proverb:

"However hot the sun,
Keep thy cloak on."

The rest of the costume consists of a short round jacket, with an upright collar. It is sometimes of dyed sheep-skin, with the wool outwards, but more commonly of coarse cloth or velvet-brown, green, blue, or black-adorned with tags on the breasts, trimmed with braid and velvet, and lined with silk. It often has silk epaulettes in addition. Two handkerchiefs, red and white, or red and yellow, are thrust into small side-pockets, with their ends depending. The waistcoat on fête-days is generally of bright silk, gaily figured, and often with representations of bullfights. It is adorned with basket-buttons, and trimmed with braid like the jacket, and is worn very open to display the well-worked shirt, the collars of which are invariably turned down, leaving the throat exposed. Round the neck is worn a silk scarf, tied in a slip

knot, and descending on the bosom. It is generally crimson, pink, or canary-coloured, but ought always to correspond in hue with the lining of the jacket, and with the sash or faga, which is a narrow strip of silk or worsted, girded round the waist with several turns. One end is often sewn up into a pouch, which serves as a purse, and bag for tobacco. A large clasp-knife is a never-failing inmate of the faga.

Tight breeches of blue, green, or chocolate plush, or punto, reach below the knee, where they are tied with cords, terminating in tassels of the same colour. The outer seams are adorned with rows of dangling basket-buttons, plaited or gilt, and sometimes with broad stripes of dark braid. The legs are cased in spatterdashes or botines of calf-skin, fastened with leather loops on the outer sides of the leg, but left open at the calf, so as always to give the appearance of a full and handsome limb. They are made with the rough side outwards—when new of a beautiful light colour -and are tastefully worked on the front and back with flowers of darker leather, or are sometimes stitched with silk of various colours.

The shoes (zapatos), which are partially covered by the botines, are of similar leather, so that together they appear like high boots. The botines of Seville are most in fashion, and a handsome pair costs not less than four or five dollars. I have seen them, though rarely, of black tanned leather, studded with brass tacks. Those who cannot afford botines wear alpergatas, sandals of Esparto rush, beaten and bound together, and fastened to the foot by thongs or strings; but these are only the poorest peasants, and

there is a saying, that " every low fellow wears spat

terdashes."

Over the head is a bright silk handkerchief, folded diagonally, and tied with a knot behind, a fashion bequeathed by the Moors. Over this is a broadbrimmed sugar-loaf hat of black felt.

The muleteer's costume is very becoming. It consists of a jacket and breeches, of dark coffee-coloured cloth, plentifully garnished with buttons, a crimson sash, in which is stuck a

cuchillo, or knife, blue stockings, and red garters at the knees, shoes of brown leather, a striped handkerchief rolled round the head, and the whole surmounted by a huge sombrero.

The costume of the peasants varies considerably. The inhabitants of Rondo and the mountainous districts dress very differently from those who live on the plains. Not only the shape and form of their garments, but also the materials of which they are composed, suit better with the colder air of the hills.

In the streets the women wear veils instead of caps or hats these veils, very unlike the gossamer texture of those worn by ladies of most other nations, are made of blue or pink flannel. This, with a black petticoat of stuff, forms the principal part of the costume. The men wear no hats, but instead of them montero caps, made of silk or black velvet, and most abundantly ornamented with fringe and tassels. Their

short jackets, adorned with gold and silver buttons, and covered with embroidery, are worn sufficiently open to enable them to display a splendid waistcoat. The breeches are of black leather or velvet, and they wear gaiters. The tout-ensemble of this costume is exceedingly picturesque.

The Catalonian ladies are great élégantes; they wore, a few years since, a black silk petticoat, with a small hoop. The body of the dress was made so low in front that the shoulders were quite uncovered, and the veil so stiffened out with wire that it formed two arches, one on either side of the head.

The muleteers in this province wear their hair in a net, and their broad silver-laced hat, squeezed quite flat, hangs with a coquettish air on one side of the head. A handkerchief is thrown loosely round the neck, the waistcoat is striped, and over it they wear a red jacket, with large silver buttons like bells. A belt of blue, edged with yellow, is bound round the waist. On the left shoulder hangs a blue great-coat, embroidered with white thread. Their breeches are striped with blue and white, their stockings are rolled below the knee, gartered and fastened with an enormous buckle, and a bunch of black ribands reaches nearly to the ankle, round which they tie some blue fillets, to keep on their packthread sandals, which scarcely cover the toes. The sailors of this province are known throughout all Spain by wearing a red woollen cap, like that of the ancient Phrygians. The middle classes are habited in hats and dark clothes, with a half-wide coat thrown carelessly over the shoulders.

In Valencia the peasant's costume is a white linen waistcoat, trousers which reach to the knee, net caps,