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dressing found on the Roman and Grecian coins. The

coiffure of the younger Faustina,

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with the coil of hair plaited upon the crown of the head, occurs frequently in the old town; that with the coil lower down, which may more properly be styled Lucilla's head-dress, is common among the younger part of the sex in the Chiaia; and Plautina's among the women more advanced in years. Very little suffices to clothe the lazaro, except on holidays, and then he is indeed tawdrily decked out, with laced jacket and flame-coloured stockings; his buckles are of enormous magni

tude, and seem to be the prototype of those with which our present men of mode load their insteps."

A curious anecdote is related respecting the queue, which, at the revolution in Naples, in the year 1799, was a most important addition to the heads of the gentlemen, inasmuch as, in many cases, it actually saved the heads it served to ornament. The royalists seized all those whom they suspected of being inimical to their party; but instead of questioning their captives, they adopted a novel and summary way of discovering their political sentiments-they merely looked whether ther heads gloried in queues or not. If they possessed this appendage, which was considered as strictly loyal, they were instantly liberated; but woe to those whose love of French modes had persuaded them to drop their pigtails! Words, entreaties, prayers,

were unavailing; the test of royalty was not there, and the queueless Neapolitans fell victims to their adoption of the new fashion, and met the deaths of traitors, rebels, and insurgents. So deeply did those who had been saved by their coiffure feel the obligation, and also the safeguard it had proved to them, that many are said to have worn their queues concealed under their coat-collars years after all fear of revolutions had been banished; and when at last the king cut off his pigtail, the news caused a sensation of dismay and astonishment throughout the whole

town.

"At Avellino," says Swinburn, "the women are handsome, and take great pains to deck out their persons to advantage. Once a-week they wash their hair with a lye of wood-ashes, that changes it from a dark brown colour to a flaxen yellow, of many different tints in the same head of hair. This I take to be the true flava cæsaries of the Latin poets."

The costume of the Tuscan peasantry varies much according to the district they inhabit. In Florence, the out-of-doors dress of the middle classes is generally black. The Tuscans, on Sundays and fête days, wear their hair becomingly ornamented with a very small hat, elegantly poised over the left ear, while the hair on the opposite side is interwoven with a string of pearls, or adorned with a shining comb. They have ear-rings formed of several drops of pearl set in gold, and necklaces composed of two rows of pearls and coral. Their feet are enclosed in black velvet slippers, and in their hands are to be seen gaudily ornamented fans. They have jackets without sleeves, laced with riband. When at work, or market,

they confine their hair in a net of crimson, scarlet, or blue silk, tied by two strings, and ornamented by tassels, which are often of gold or silver. They are also often seen with the hair drawn into a knot on the top of the head, and a veil hanging down behind.

The Venetians dress their heads in a curious manner. They wear a little rose-coloured hat, trimmed with blonde, placed over the right ear; and over the left a bunch of artificial flowers, the hair behind tied with a riband.

"A custom here

prevails," says Lady Millar, "of wearing no rouge, and increasing the native paleness of the face by lightly wiping a white powder over the face.'

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Mrs. Piozzi gives the following account of their morning dress in her time: "It consists of a black silk petticoat sloped, just to train on the ground a little, flounced with black gauze. On their heads they have a skeleton wire, like what is used for making up hats; over it they throw a large piece of black mode or

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persian, so as to shade the face like a curtain. The front is trimmed with deep black lace, or soufflet gauze, very becoming. The thin ends of silk they roll back, and fasten in a puff before on the stomacher; then once more rolling it back from the shape, tie it gracefully behind, and let it hang in two ends. The evening coiffure is a silk hat, shaped like a man's, with a white or worked lining, and sometimes one feather; a great black silk cloak, lined with white, and perhaps a narrow border down before, with a very heavy round handkerchief of black lace, which lies over the neck and shoulders, and conceals the shape completely. Here is surely little appearance of art! no creping, no frizzing the hair, which is flat at the top, all of one length, and hanging in long curls about the back and sides, as it happens. No brown powder, no rouge at all."

Lady Millar thus describes a Venetian wedding: "All the ladies, except the bride, were dressed in their black silk gowns with large hoops; the gowns were straight-bodied, with very long trains, the trains tucked up on one side of the hoop with a prodigious large tassel of diamonds. Their sleeves were covered up to their shoulders with falls of the finest Brussels lace, a drawn tucker of the same round the bosom, adorned with rows of the finest pearls, each the size of a gooseberry, till the rows descended below the top of the stomacher; then two rows of pearls, which came from the back of the neck, were caught up at the left side of the stomacher, and finished in two fine tassels. Their heads were dressed prodigiously high, in a vast number of buckles, and two long drop curls in the neck. A great number of diamond pins and

strings of pearls adorned their heads, with large sultanes, or feathers, on one side, and magnificent diamond ear-rings. The bride was dressed in cloth of silver, made in the same fashion, and decorated in the same manner, but her brow was quite bare, and she had a fine diamond necklace and an enormous bouquet. Her hair was dressed as high as the others, with this difference, that it had curls behind and before. These curls had a singular appearance, but not near so good an effect as the other ladies', whose hair was plaited in large folds, and appeared much more graceful. Her diamonds were very fine, and in great profusion."

Keysler says: "There is a college at Venice, to whose care the regulation of dress is committed by the republic. All the nobili wear black, and foreign

cloth is prohibited."

Formerly it was requisite that a noble Venetian should have eight cloaks; three for the masks, one of which was for the spring fête of the Ascension, when the Doge married the sea; one for the autumn, for the ridotto and theatre; one for winter, for the Carnival. These three were called baceta. In addition to these, they had two for summer, of white taffeta; one of blue cloth for winter; one of white cloth for great occasions; one of scarlet cloth for the great churchceremony days.

The following is said to be the origin of the cross in front of the ducal coronet worn by the Doge. The father of Laurentius Celsus, who was elected Doge in 1361, thinking it beneath his dignity to pull off his cap to his own son, went, from the moment of his election, on all occasions and in all weathers, with his head uncovered. The Doge, being solicitous for his

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