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the snow, are very curious. They are formed of cane,

with a place in the centre for the heel, and are from three to four feet long, and from nine to twelve inches wide. From presenting such a broad surface they do not readily sink in the snow; but, according to travellers who have used them, they are not at all agreeable, for they rub the skin off the heel. Franklin says he might have been traced for miles by the blood which flowed from his feet occasioned by the friction of this chaussure.

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THE TOILETTE IN HUNGARY.

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CHAPTER XXXIII.

HE dress worn by the better classes in most of the courts of Europe, is swayed by the fashions of France and England; but the national costume of Hungary is well known to the lovers of the fancy-ball, who often array themselves in its sable dress, with sleeves straight to the arms, and stays fastened in front with gold, pearl, or diamond buttons.

Lady Wortley Montague, in her "Letters," says: "The

Hungarian lady's dress is beautiful; a gown of scarlet velvet lined and faced with sables, made exactly to fit her shape, the skirt falling to the feet. The sleeves are straight, the stays buttoned before with two rows

of little buttons of gold, pearl, or diamonds. On their heads they wear a tassel of gold, that hangs low on one side, lined with sable or some other fine fur."

The dress of the female peasants is not so becoming. The hair in front is plaited tight, and joined to the back, which is likewise plaited, and hangs down behind, in the same manner as that of the Swiss peasants. The neck is covered with a white handkerchief, and a variegated body and petticoat, with a white apron, forms the rest of the dress. The petticoat is worn short, to shew the yellow leather boots, with low iron heels.

The men have thick stout blue jackets, strong thick boots without much shape, lank, uncombed hair, and a broad-brimmed hat with a low crown.

The costume of the better classes is much admired. It consists of a hussar jacket and pantaloons, the former girded round the waist with a sash of some rich manufacture. Over this jacket they throw a cloak, or mantle, which buttons under the arm, so as to leave the right hand at liberty. The ornaments of their dress are usually black lace, but sometimes a profusion of gold lace also is used in the adornment of their attire, particularly the pelisse, which is generally crossed by a gold cord. The boots are long, and have a tassel of black cord or gold bullion in front. On the head is worn a kalpac, or cap of fur, with a falling top of crimson cloth, and sometimes a plume of feathers. Spurs on the heels are indispensable to the

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costume.

The guba, a manufacture peculiar to Hungary, is also employed for the garments of the lower orders: it can only be made from long-woolled sheep, and exactly resembles a sheep-skin. This cloth is only a yard in width; but its great peculiarity, which distinguishes it from other kinds of cloth, is that, after every four threads, a small lock of the long wool of the Hungarian sheep is put in with the fingers.

When the guba is finished weaving, it is sent to be washed in the hot springs at Gross Wardein. It is then dyed, generally of a black colour, to make greatcoats for the poorer classes, and is most comfortable for those who are exposed to the inclemency of the weather. A finer kind of guba is made from the wool of lambs. When dyed blue, it looks very well, and is used in winter instead of fur.

The Morlacchi, though belonging to Hungary, differ much in manners and appearance from the inhabitants of that country. The dress of the women is very remarkable. The unmarried females are very whimsical in respect to the ornaments of the head, but when married, they are not allowed to wear anything but a handkerchief tied round it. The girls wear a scarlet cap, to which they generally fasten a veil, which falls back over the shoulders; strings of silver coins, glass beads, shells, feathers, and artificial flowers, as well as tremulous plumes of glass, are all employed to ornament these caps, which, though singular in their appearance, are often not devoid of elegance. Their holiday shifts are embroidered with red silk, and sometimes with gold; these they work for themselves, while tending their flocks, and it is wonderful how well they are executed.

The use of stays is unknown, nor do they put whalebone or iron in their stomachers. A woollen girdle sustains the petticoat, which is commonly decked with shells, and of a blue colour, whence it derives the name of modrina. The gown, which is made of serge, reaches to the ankle, and is bordered with red; it is called sadak. In summer the modrina is not worn, only the sadak without sleeves, and the shift. The girls always wear red stockings, and their shoes or opanke, which somewhat resemble the cothurnus of the ancients, are made of undressed leather, and fasten with knotted thongs above the ankles. The unmarried women, even of the richest families, are not permitted to wear any other sort of shoe, but after marriage they are allowed to replace it by the Turkish slipper.

The girls keep their hair concealed under their caps, but the women wear it falling on their shoulders. Sometimes they tie it under the chin, and always have beads and coins twisted among it, in the Tartar fashion.

Both old and young women wear round their necks strings of various sized beads, and rings of silver, brass, and tin, on their fingers; they have bracelets of leather covered with wrought tin or silver, and they embroider their stomachers or adorn them with beads and shells.

The dress of the men is much plainer than that of the women. It consists of breeches of coarse white serge, which they draw tight round the waist by means of a woollen string; a shirt, and a short doublet, called jacerma. In winter they add a short cloak, made of coarse red cloth, called rabiniza. On their heads they wear a red cloth cap, and above it

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