THE

TOILETTE IN TURKEY, WALLACHIA,

ETC.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Stamboul.

ET us now transport our readers to the shores of the East-the land of the Sultan-the far-famed city of Here, within the closelyguarded chambers of the harem, mid the perfume of thousands of flowers, the soft rippling of fountains, and the sweet melody of voices, "Fashion" still holds undisputed sway. Within the gorgeous chamber, secluded from the gaze of all but her immediate attendants, sits the Eastern beauty, the Rose of the Garden, the Pearl of the Ocean. Paintings and gildings adorn the walls, carpets of the richest dyes are laid over the floors, silken sofas and couches, whose softness invite repose, are scattered around, and near them lie cushions, glittering in satin, velvet, brocade, and embroidery, and tassels and fringes of gold and silver. To describe her beauty, and the

dress of Eastern ladies, let me borrow the gifted pen of Lady Wortley Montague.

"On a sofa, raised three steps, and covered with Persian carpets, sat the kihàya's lady, leaning on cushions of white satin embroidered; and at her feet sat two young girls about twelve years old, lovely as angels, dressed perfectly rich, and almost covered with jewels. But they were hardly seen near the fair Fatima, so much her beauty effaced every thing I have seen; nay, all that has been called lovely in England or Germany. She was dressed in a caftan* of gold brocade, flowered with silver, very well fitted to her shape, and shewing to admiration the beauty of her bosom, only shaded by the thin gauze of her shift. Her drawers were pale pink, her waistcoat green and silver, her slippers white satin, finely embroidered, her lovely arms adorned with bracelets of diamonds, and her broad girdle set with diamonds. Upon her head a rich Turkish handkerchief of pink and silver, her own fine black hair hanging a great length, in various tresses, and on one side of her head some bodkins of jewels."

Such was the dress of the lady of the deputy to the grand vizier, above one hundred years since, and such is still the dress of the Eastern women; for though fashion frequently changes the colour of their garments, and the materials of which they are composed, now bidding the fair recluse array herself in pale blue silk, now in deep crimson, then again in white muslin, fine as the spider's web, pure as the untrodden snow, still the form of the garments never changes, and has been the same for hundreds of years. A kind of vest.

Lady Wortley Montague, who while residing in the East adopted the costume of the country, thus describes her own dress in a letter to her sister then in England:

"The first part of my dress is a pair of drawers, very full, that reach to my shoes, and conceal the legs more modestly than your petticoats; they are of a thin rose-coloured damask, brocaded with silver flowers. My shoes are of white kid leather, embroidered with gold. Over this hangs my smock, of a fine white silk gauze, edged with embroidery. This smock has wide sleeves, hanging half-way down the arm, and is closed at the neck with a diamond button. The antery is a waistcoat, made close to the shape, of white and gold damask, with very long sleeves falling back, and fringed with deep gold fringe, and should have diamond or pearl buttons. My caftan, of the same stuff as my drawers, is a robe exactly fitted to my shape, and reaching to my feet, with very long, straight, falling sleeves. Over this is my girdle, of about four inches broad, which all that can afford it have entirely of diamonds or other precious stones; it must be fastened before with a clasp of diamonds. The curdee is a loose robe they throw off or put on according to the weather, being of a rich brocade (mine is green and gold), either lined with sable or ermine; the sleeves reach very little below the shoulders. The head-dress is composed of a cap called talpack, which in winter is of fine velvet, embroidered with pearls and diamonds, and in summer of a light silver stuff; this is fixed on one side of the head, hanging a little way down, with a gold tassel, and bound on either with a circle of diamonds (as I have seen several) or a rich embroidered handker

chief. On the other side of the head the hair is flat, and here the ladies are at liberty to shew their fancies; some putting flowers, others a plume of heron's feathers, and, in short, what they please. But the most general fashion is a large bouquet of jewels, made like natural flowers; that is, the buds of pearl, the roses of different coloured rubies, the jessamines of diamonds, the jonquil of topazes, &c., and so well set and enamelled 'tis hard to imagine any thing of that kind so beautiful. The hair hangs at full length behind, divided into tresses braided with pearl and ribbon, which is always in great quantity."

The above is considered a perfect description of the in-door costume of an Eastern lady of quality; but when they go abroad they are all obliged to wear

the other quite concealing the head-dress. Besides these a ferigee is worn to hide the figure; it has straight sleeves, reaching to the ends of the fingers, and, wrapping round them, perfectly conceals the dress and shape.

All Eastern women, whether of high or low degree, wear drawers: indeed the poorer classes only wear these and a shirt. Yet, though half naked, no one is ever seen without a veil; which, even from the time of Rebecca, has been considered a necessary part of female dress; and all but the very poorest contrive to possess some jewels, for ear-rings, bracelets, and necklaces.

Although there is a chapter in the Koran which strictly prohibits adorning of the person with gold, silver, and jewels, silks, and costly robes, the Turks do not seem to pay the slightest attention to the admonition; for men, as well as women, only esteem their attire in proportion to the expense lavished upon it.

Any alteration in the fashion of their garments is unknown among the Turks, although from time immemorial points of dress appear to have been considered of almost as much importance as points of faith. The long sleeve still worn among the Turks is mentioned by both Strabo and Herodotus; while the turban is stated by Pliny to be in his time universally worn by the inhabitants of the East, and, as at present, the high turban was then worn by people of distinction, while the lower classes were allowed one not so elevated. Thus the most insignificant objects of dress in this country are of real importance for rank and privilege are here designated