lotas, a poet, who lived in the island of Cos, being so very thin and light that he was afraid of being carried away by the wind, had the soles of his sandals made of lead!

The cothurnus, or buskin, worn by the Greeks of both sexes, is said by some to have been invented by Thespis, a native of Attica, and the first tragic author. Others assert that Sophocles was the first who introduced it upon the stage, where its high heels were of much service to those who undertook the part of heroes. It usually reached up the leg, and was fastened under the knee. Some were richly ornamented, and they were frequently of a purple colour.

Soccus, which is often used to express a comic style, as cothurnus does a tragic, was also Greek. Terence speaks of it, in one of his tragedies, as an outside covering for the feet: "Uncertain as to what I should do, I seated myself, and my slaves came to to take off my soccus." Gradually, as the love of ornament and display advanced, sandals, which at first were only made of the skins of animals, assumed a different appearance, and soon no part of dress was more remarkable for splendour and magnificence; gold, precious stones, and embroidery, were all employed to adorn them. Thus, Homer says:

"And on his foot the golden sandal shone."

Clasp'd on his feet th' embroider'd sandals shine."

The phasia was a kind of shoe. Appianus, the Greek historian, mentions that they were made of white leather, and were worn by the Athenian priests when they offered sacrifices.

Some think that the ancients were unacquainted with the use of gloves, but we find them mentioned by Homer in his description of Laertes, king of Ithaca :

and gloves against the thorn."

Among the ornaments worn by the Greeks, the brooch bore a distinguished place; it was a necessary as well as an ornamental part of their attire, being used to fasten the tunics and the chlamydes. It was of various shapes and materials. Bracelets, which were worn both by men and women, appear to have served as a mark of honour as well as of slavery, for we find them presented to warriors as a recompense for valour, at a period when they are mentioned by the historian Suetonius as being worn by slaves, in token of their servitude. The ordinary kinds were made of copper or iron, the more elegant of ivory, silver, gold, and precious stones. Homer thus describes the bracelet presented by Eurymachus to Penelope :

"A bracelet rich with gold, with amber gay,

That shot effulgence like the solar ray."

Necklaces and bracelets also seem to have been awarded as the prize of courage both in real and mimic warfare. Homer speaks of "orient necklaces" -necklaces strung with pearls, and others worked with art, whence we may infer that the ancients were skilful in their manufacture. Ear-rings appear to have been worn only by women and boys: immense sums were expended upon these ornaments. Seneca observes that

a single pair was often worth the revenue of a rich man.

Rings were worn both by men and women; they were made of plain gold, or of some of the inferior metals; at others they were set with precious stones, and often had an image engraved upon them. These latter were used for sealing letters and papers, and were called signet rings.

Dieararchus describes the ancient Theban women as veiled from head to foot, leaving nothing visible but the eyes, which peered through two holes in the drapery that covered their faces. This account corresponds exactly with the dress they now wear.

The dress of the modern Grecians differs much in various parts of the country. The matrons of Athens wear garments made of red or blue cloth, with very short waists, and petticoats falling in folds to the ground. Over the head and shoulders they throw a thin flowing veil of white muslin, ornamented with a gold border. The attire of a maiden of the same city consists of a long red vest, with a square yellow satin cape hanging down behind; they walk with their hands concealed in the pocket-holes at the sides of their gowns, and their faces muffled.

Chandler, in his "Travels in Greece," gives the following elegant description of a Grecian virgin in her secluded apartment: "There the girl, like Thetis, treading on a soft carpet, has her white and delicate feet naked, the nails tinged with red. Her trousers, which in winter are of red cloth, and in summer of fine calico or thin gauze, descend from the hips to the ankle, hanging loosely about her limbs, the lower portion embroidered with flowers, and appearing beneath the shift, which has the sleeves wide and open,

and the seams and edges curiously adorned with needlework. Her vest is of silk, exactly fitted to the form of the bosom and the shape of the body, which it rather covers than conceals, and is shorter than the shift. The sleeves button occasionally at the hand, and are lined with red or yellow satin. A rich zone encompasses her waist, and is fastened before by clasps of silver gilded, or of gold set with precious stones. Over the vest is a robe, in summer lined with ermine, and in cold weather with fur of a warmer kind. The headdress is a skull-cap, red or green, with pearls, a stay under the chin, and a yellow forehead cloth. She has bracelets of gold on her wrists, and, like Aurora, is rosyfingered, the tips being stained. Her necklace is a string of zeckins, a species of gold coin, or the pieces called Byzantines. At her cheek is a lock of hair, made to curl towards the face;

and down her back falls a profusion of tresses, spreading over her shoulders. Much time is consumed in combing and braiding the hair after bathing; and, at the greater festivals, in enriching and powdering it with small bits of silver, gilded, and resembling a violin in shape, and woven in at regular distances. She is painted blue round the eyes, and the insides of the

sockets, with the edges on which the lashes grow, are tinged with black."

The men on the continent of Greece are usually seen with large blue trousers, naked legs, and red slippers; a red sash, sometimes of silk, girding their waist, and a jacket of cloth, made in the Venetian fashion, with seams of guimp. Whiskers are universally worn: beards only by priests. The elder men shave the head and cover it with a fez, or cloth skull-cap, and a blue turban; the younger have their hair full, and turned under a bonnet of scarlet cloth, which hangs down on one side.

The usual dress of a Greek lady we find described by a recent traveller, as follows: "The dress of the Grecian ladies of rank and wealth, except at Smyrna, Constantinople, and a few other large commercial towns, does not differ very materially from that worn by the Turkish ladies. When out of doors, however, the two classes are easily distinguishable; the Turks muffle up and cover their faces in muslin, and wear yellow morocco slippers; the Greeks show their faces, and are obliged to wear slippers of a dingier hue; besides which there are other points of difference between their promenade dresses. The usual costume is a scarlet cloth skull-cap on the head, more or less richly worked in gold, with pearls, &c. ; an open and flowing gown, with very full sleeves, mostly made of silk, richly embroidered; an inner vest, also richly worked, and setting to the body almost as closely as a man's waistcoat; very wide muslin drawers, tied above the ankle, and concealed by the gown; morocco bottines, without soles, thrust into well-soled morocco slippers, or coloured silk