stockings and loose shoes; a long and rich veil, put on with singular gracefulness, and the cestus, or zone or girdle (a beautiful shawl), which rests upon the hips, and is kept down in front by two silver clasps or bosses. This zone is altogether distinct from the waist, which is formed by the foldings of the dress below the bosom; it is, in short, a second waist, and though very classical, and the image of the ancient cestus, is one of the few things at once classical and Greek that strike us as ungraceful. In cold weather a short satin pelisse or spenser, trimmed and lined with furs, is worn over the dress."

We find a great variety in the dress of the inhabitants of the Grecian islands. Their peculiar customs, infinitely various as they are in what relates to dress, are scrupulously retained by the social islanders; whilst the continental Greeks are but in a small degree to be discriminated from each other.

"The

The costume of the inhabitants of these sunny climes is beautiful, various, and elegant. higher classes," says a modern author, "have adopted the Venetian or Italian dress, and some have even ventured upon the English and French modes; but the lower ranks still retain their own picturesque costume. The hair is worn very long, and floats upon the shoulders; some use the small red Albanian skull-cap, which just covers the crown of the head; others wear a cap of white, red, or blue cotton, which hangs in a bag behind, or on one side; this is the common head-dress of the men, particularly the peasants. A double-breasted waistcoat, usually made of velvet, either maroon-coloured or blue, closed at the

chest with a double row of hanging buttons of gold or silver, which begin at the shoulders, and approach each other towards the waist, forms the principal feature in their attire; it is generally bordered with gold lace, and fastened with a sash of coloured silk. The lower part of their dress, which is called thoraki, is deserving of particular description. It resembles a wide sack, made generally of blue cotton, with holes at the corners, through which the legs are thrust, the superfluous cloth hanging in folds between the legs; these trousers are supported by the silk sash already mentioned: this garment is sometimes exchanged for the short white Albanian petticoat, unconfined at the knee, and resembling the Highland kilt, which is a much more graceful dress than the thoraki.

The legs are covered with white cotton stockings, and shoes are worn on the feet, with very large buckles. Another and more elegant covering for the feet is a sandal made of undressed leather; it fits the foot tightly, and is strapped across the instep and up the lower part of the leg this sandal, however, is only worn by the lowest ranks, chiefly the goat-herds. These last also have a thick cloak, made of the hair of goats, or the wool of sheep, with the addition of a hood to protect the head.

The women in these islands wear their beautiful long hair plaited in many tresses, and it often grows

with such luxuriance, that it frequently reaches to the ground; a handkerchief, folded corner-wise, generally covers the head. The gown is made like the vest worn by the men; it is of purple or maroon velvet, richly embroidered with gold, and with a very long waist. A beautiful girdle is worn under the vest, which always floats open; the girdle is fastened with an immense gold or silver ornament at each side, formed in the shape of a shield. The petticoats worn with this robe are of rich blue or pink silk, beautifully embroidered and spangled. In these islands stays are unknown. The most graceful form of the vest is its fitting quite close to the waist; the female peasants also wear high heels to their shoes, ornamented with silver buckles.

Embroidery appears, from all the ancient authors, to have attained the greatest perfection in these islands. It was first invented by the Phrygians, and we frequently find it mentioned both in the "Iliad" and the "Odyssey." Not only were the dresses of the ladies beautifully worked by their own delicate fingers, but they also appear to have embroidered pictures or stories. Thus, the lovely Helen, we are told, was occupied in this manner :

"Meantime to beauteous Helen, from the skies,
The various goddess of the rainbow flies;

(Like fair Laodicé in form and face,
The loveliest nymph of Priam's royal race);

Her in the palace at her loom she found;

The golden web her own sad story crown'd,
The Trojan wars she weaved (herself the prize),
And the dire triumphs of her fatal eyes."- HOMER.

D D

The warriors, also, of "olden time," wore girdles or belts covered with the richest embroidery :

"Stiff with the rich embroider'd work around,

My vary'd belt repelled the flying wound."- HOMER.

The women of Scio, who have always been celebrated for their beauty, have a very picturesque dress, which is thus described by Dr. R. Chandler: "They wear short petticoats, reaching only to the knees, with white silk or cotton hose; their head-dress, which is peculiar to the island, is a kind of turban of linen, so fine and white that it seemed like snow. Their slippers are chiefly yellow, with a knot of red fringe at the heel; some wore them fastened with a thong. Their garments were of silk of various colours, and their whole appearance so fantastic and lively, as to afford us much entertainment."

In Cyprus the female dress is very becoming. The head-dress is modelled upon the kind of calathus which is often seen represented upon Phoenician idols and Egyptian statues it is worn by all classes. Their hair, which they dye with henna till it becomes of a fine brown colour, hangs down behind in a great many glossy braids or plaits. Round the face ringlets are arranged in a very graceful manner, and among the "hyacinthine waves" of these shining curls are placed the flowers of the jessamine, which are strung

tree.

together upon slips cut from the leaves of the palmThis coiffure, which is as simple as it is elegant and beautiful, is much admired by all strangers who visit the island.

In their dresses they are fond of displaying the brightest and most gaudy colours. The upper robe is generally of a rich crimson, scarlet, or green silk, profusely embroidered in gold; their yellow or scarlet trousers are fastened round the ankles, and they wear yellow boots, or slippers. Their love of ornament is very great, and they adorn the head and neck with gold coins, chains, and various other trinkets. Around the waist also they wear a large and massive belt or zone, clasped in front by large and heavy brass plates: the waist of the robe is made as long as possible. But though very handsome, the women of this island are naturally rather corpulent; and as stays are there unknown, they of course have no means, even if they wished it, of diminishing their size.

In Casos the women wear a boddice without sleeves, opening a little towards the top; a robe of the whitest and finest cotton, edged with a purple border four fingers wide, and elegantly embroidered, descends to their feet, and the waist is loosely girded by a sash, which floats gracefully around them.

The dress of the men consists of a short jacket and waistcoat, without a collar, very full breeches, with a red sash round the waist, a small red cap fitting close to the crown of the head, and shoes resembling our slippers; the legs and throat are generally bare. They wear moustaches, but never beards; and though they do not shave the fore part of the head, like the Albanians, yet the hair is