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portment that they so universally affect. It consists of a long robe, which reaches nearly to the ground, and is fastened on the shoulders with gold or silver buttons. The sleeves, which are wide at the top, grow narrower towards the wrist, and end in the shape of a horse-shoe, covering all the hands except the ends of the fingers. This robe is fastened round the waist with a broad silk sash, to which are suspended a purse, and two small sticks, called chopsticks, which are used as forks.

In the summer they wear trousers made of linen, silk, or satin; but during the winter, particularly in the colder parts of the country, they are made of furs of different kinds. In the summer also they have their necks uncovered, but in the winter they are shielded from the cold by collars of quilted satin or furs. The higher classes frequently wear a surtout of silk, satin, or velvet; this garment is very short, has large sleeves, and is lined with the most costly furs. The men formerly wore their hair as long as they could induce it to grow, and plaited in tails hanging down their backs; but now they only allow two or three tufts on the crown of the head.

They either wear hats, in shape and size resembling large umbrellas, or else small conical caps, made of beautifully wrought cane-work, and frequently painted in flowers or birds. They also have another cap, which, though richer in material, is not so graceful as the former; it is of the same shape, but made of black velvet, with blue silk in the middle, and a red tassel surmounting the top.

The upper dress of the Chinese ladies resembles

that of the lords of the Celestial Empire; but it is more decorated with rich and beautiful embroidery. The trousers are tied round the ankle, so as to give a full view of their small feet, encased in highly ornamented shoes. They appear anxious to conceal, rather than to display, the elegance of their figure, though a small waist is much admired. Their sleeves being very long, protect their hands, and render gloves unne

cessary.

The married ladies tie the hair on the top of the head;

and, to make the tuft as large

as possible, add a quantity of false hair, and stick it full of long gold or silver pins, or bodkins, the ends of which are frequently highly ornamented with jewels; while the

young women wear their jet black ringlets clustering on each side of the face. Artificial flowers are also often used to ornament the head. But the favourite coiffure, the object of a Chinese lady's greatest admiration, is an artificial bird, formed of gold or silver, intended to represent

the Fong-whang, a fabulous bird, of which the

[graphic]

ancients relate many marvellous tales.

It is worn

in such a manner that the wings stretch over the front of the head; the spreading tail makes a kind of plume on the top, and the body is placed over the forehead, while the neck and beak hang down. The former being fastened to the body with an invisible hinge, it vibrates with the least motion.

In a Chinese novel, called by the euphonius title of "Hung-how-Mung," is the following description of a Chinese élégante:-" On her head, her knot of hair was adorned with gold and silver, and eight precious stones pendent. It was fastened with a pin of pearls dropping from five little eagles. An ornament of virgin gold, enlivened with insects, embraced her neck. Around her waist was an upper dress of deep red-coloured silk, on which was embroidered an hundred golden butterflies fluttering among flowers. Over this a narrow garment made of the skins of stone-blue mice, and silk of five different colours. Below all was a petticoat of foreign crêpe, of a green colour, sprinkled with flowers."

The distinctive mark of different ranks among the mandarins consists in the colour and value of the button worn in the cap, in the jewels that adorn the girdle, and in the quality of the embroidery that ornaments the robe.

The Chinese wear their nails of an immense length; and neither men or women are often seen without a painted fan in their hands, many of them most beautifully figured.

The extraordinary admiration of this people for small feet subjects them to much pain and incon

venience. Å son as a female did in the liber raks is bride seat moder de fcc, and Spicy bandaged day and if the growth of the icc ceases This barbarous cussion is abued by some of wizers to Taya de vie of me of the first Chinese experts. She is represented as having been very beautiful bus bangry and imperious. She persuaded ber baband to low ber to make wha: laws she pleased and having very deformed fees, she bound them with filets, and, criered a the ladies of the country to imitare her example; thas attempting to make a deformity pass for a beasty.

The Chinese people of rank Dever go abroad without boots male of sain or silk, or sometimes even of cotton. They are made without heels, and fit with the greatest nicety. Their stockings are of silk stuff, quilted and lined with cotton, and ornamented with velvet or cloth. In summer they have light slippers, and the common people black cotton shoes. Besides wearing quantities of false hair, the Chinese women also employ paint to heighten the charms of their complexion.

In the "Journal of the Embassy to China," by Henry Ellis, we read that the dress of ceremony of the mandarins consists of blue gauze or crape, with some flowered satin beneath; and that it is plain and not unbecoming. An embroidered badge, marking their rank, whether civil or military, is fixed upon their robe, either before or behind. The peacock's feather,

[graphic]

or more properly tail of peacock's feather, answering to our orders of knighthood, is worn behind. Two of these are equivalent to the garter.

"The

In the journal of Dr. Thunberg we find the following account of the dress of the Japanese :fashion of their clothes has remained the same from the highest antiquity. They consist of one or more loose gowns, tied about the middle with a sash; the women wear them much longer than the men, and dragging on the ground. In summer they are very thin; but in winter, quilted with silk or cotton wadding. People of rank have them made of silk; the lower class of cotton stuffs. Women generally wear a greater number of them than the men, and have them more ornamented, often with gold or silver flowers woven into the stuff. These gowns are generally left open at the breast; their sleeves are very wide, but partly sewed up in front, so as to make a kind of pocket, into which they can easily put their hands. Men of consequence are distinguished from those of inferior rank by a short jacket of thin black stuff, which is worn over their gowns, and trousers open on the sides, but sewed together near the bottom part, into which the skirts of the robe are thrust. Some use drawers, but all have their legs naked. They wear sandals of straw, fastened to the feet by a bow passing over the instep, and a string which passes between the great toe and that next to it, fixing it to the bow. In winter they have socks of linen, and in rainy or dirty weather, wooden shoes.

"In their sash they fasten the sabre, fan, and tobacco-pipe. They never cover their heads but on a journey, when they use a conical cap made of straw;

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